Leaping waterfalls and ice-sculpted canyons

Yosemite attracts the finest rock climbers from all over the world to scale its solid, sheer, granite rock wall of El Capitan. However, there is so much more to attract visitors. Forests of giant Sequoia trees, waterfalls that leap from the cliffs, soaring white-capped peaks and ice sculpted canyons, magnificent lofty granite domes splashed with vibrant colours and 1300 km of wilderness hiking trails.

After the stark, brown desolation of the drive from Carson City, Nevada it is a surprising transition to come across the greenness of the world’s first national park, Yosemite.

On the eastern border of northern California the 1900 square kilometre park attracts four million people each year from all over the world. The area was proclaimed a national park by president Lincoln in 1890, thanks to the efforts of naturalist John Muir.

Travelling along the narrow, winding road into Yosemite valley the grandeur of the scenery is breathtaking. The valley is 10 km long and 2 km wide and only 6 % of the park but it is the focal point, surrounded by the largest granite domes in the world.

Curly-horned mule-deer, so named because of their mule-like floppy ears, saunter across the roads and through the campsites, like something from a Christmas tale. The gurgling Merced River bisects the valley floor, fed by half of America’s highest waterfalls. An aquatic ballet display of water in Yosemite Falls at 730 metres, being the highest waterfall in north America.

Black bears, erroneously named because their colour can vary from dark brown to tan, are a huge nuisance. They are not a worthy adversary. They are 135 kg, have huge, damaging teeth, easily climb trees and despite being basically lazy they can run 50 km per hour. They are tempted by anything from toothpaste to crumbs in a child’s car seat. All camp spots come with a metal cabinet and bear-proof containers are available free of charge to hikers.

There is an easy cycle ride along the 14 kilometre, one-way loop around the valley floor. For the equestrian there are stables and many horse trails.

Stop along the way to lie in the meadow at the foot of the world’s highest, sheer, granite rock wall - El Capitan, and watch and listen to the rock climbers. At night specks of light from head torches are a faint glimmer high above. Many of the advanced rock-climbing techniques have been developed on this 1,080 metre, perpendicular, polished surface.

There are 1300 km of wilderness trails within Yosemite, including part of the 4,250 kilometre Pacific Crest Trail. All water must be carried because the streams are contaminated by the parasite Guiardia.

The most popular walk is the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls where, late in the afternoon it is possible to see a full-circle rainbow.

The symbols of the park are the smooth, vertical walls of El Capitan and the dramatic sheered appearance of Half Dome. The latter can be scaled by mere mortals like myself, although it is a tough, full day.

The hike starts from the valley and follows the Mist Trail past Vernal Falls following the Panorama Trail where the path branches off to the left passing through a forest. At the base of the dome the first section is on carefully made steps gouged out of the granite as well as wooden logs.

At the base of the steepest section is a pile of gloves, a necessary tool for clambering up the final, almost vertical rock where there are two handrails of cable and steps of narrow wood. This is tough work and most people find it necessary to catch their breath and rest weary arms. The view from the top is worth the effort: miles and miles of peaks and trees as far as the eye can see, while the beautiful valley is spread out below.

The best view of the valley is from Glacier Point. It is a tough, full day, 14 kilometre climb passing two thundering waterfalls. The hike can be done one-way as there are buses to the look-out point 960 metres above the valley floor.

Tuolumne Meadows at 2,550 metres is the largest sub-alpine meadow in the Sierra’s and the hub of serious backpackers who prefer the solitude and spiritual value of a wilderness experience. The clear blue glacial lakes and wide open meadows are a stark contrast to the dense forest valley.

It is easy to lose all sense of proportion walking through the awe-inspiring, dry, richly scented forests of Tuolumne and Merced Groves where the world’s tallest trees grow. Some of these noble giant Sequoia’s are 3,000 years old; 12 metres high; have a 6 metre girth and bark of 45 centimetres.

In winter the park is an alpine playground, with snow-capped peaks and ice sculpted canyons. Accommodation is cheaper and easier to find as there are fewer visitors. Downhill and cross-country skiing are popular and there are many backcountry ski huts. In the valley there is an ice-skating rink.

If you are a rock-climber, mountaineer or simply enjoy wide-open spaces then visit Yosemite National Park.