Vilcabamba

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My hostal Izhcayluma

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Vilcabamba is a wonderful hippie traveller town south of Cuenca about 5 hours by bus. I went there for the weekend and it was great- laid back and quiet. I stayed in a hostal called Izhcayluma (which was nearly impossible to remember the name) but it was very nice with a pool and nice cabanas. However the bathrooms smelled like sewer and the showers rapidly fluctuated hot and cold, it was also a mile from town (uphill).Of all the hostals, it hasthe most breathtaking view of the mountains and overlooking the town since it is on the top of a hill- the view never gets old. I tried to read a book but was too distracted by the butterflies, birds singing, and the great overlook.

Werented horses from Gavin the whole next day, and I think I was the only one in the group who did not have a gaited horse- lucky me. We rode literally along the edge of cliffs- one wrong step and down you go...!!! But spectacular views the whole time. Not only rode but actually ran the horses flat out along these edges- was very exciting- we rode for 7 hours approx with an hour hike by foot to a waterfall. This was the most challenging trail ride I have ever been on but the horses were so sure footed I did not see one trip once- which is amazing given the terrain. I just let my horse do his thing and trusted him not to fall. Anyway my butt was sore afterwards but so was everyone elses. I then had a massage in town which was great and nearly fell asleep, then had my nails done. We ended the night in a bar/hostal where there was a DJ spinning german techno and various ex-circus performers from Germany doing fire tricks. Two little kids in town came up to me and asked me if I could juggle- I guess it must be a common trick for foreigners to do...

At the top of the hill, the horses are tired

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The ride on the bus back to Vilabamba was twisting and turning as usual and a little boy threw up a big heap of potatoes and rice all over the floor next to me. To make matters worse, it started raining and so guess what? Lets close all the windows and live with the barf smell. Several people walking down the aisle stepped into the barf and slid around. Lovely... only 4 more hours to go!!! And the bus was crowded, I could not get away from the slimy pile. After an hour or so the bus guy came and put newspapers over the barf.

Got back to Cuenca and spent one night there before leaving in the early morning to go to Baos. The bus to Baos was crowded as usual and my luggage was loaded next to a crate full of chickens. Half way through the trip a bunch of luggage (not mine) fell of the top of the bus and we had to back the bus up a steep narrow road to go get it. I had to switch busses in Ambato, and the bus does not drop you off at the terminal- basically your are left with your bag on the side of the road and you sit and wait for another bus. I asked 3 people if this was correct because I thought I must be misunderstanding, but everyone said the same thing, plus they were all getting off. I flagged down a bus for Baos and there was only one seat left- next to the mentally disabled drooling man with a deformed body (how did he get on the bus??!!). He kept telling me I was beautiful and trying to talk to me in Spanish, and oh by the way, can you spare a dollar? At least that is what I think he was saying. Anyway, he eventually fell asleep, thank god.