Veracruz

Papantla:

Awoke early, the skies looked ominous. We went for breakfast, eggs again.

On leaving the hotel to walk to the bus station the heavens opened, (think Noah) The locals dived for cover and smiled as the two Gringo drowned rats carried on regardless downhill to the station. The rivers of water flooded past us and pick-up trucks which were parked under the overhead gutters filled with water and started to resemble mobile swimming pools.

On reaching the station we offloaded our kit and then watched wryly as the locals demolished part of a wall in the bus garage to release the wall of water that was rapidly building up behind it.

The journey to Veracruz took 4 hours, and for much of the time the road hugged the coastline.

Veracruz:

Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz, to give it its full name, was the first town in Mexico founded by the Spaniards when Hernan Cortes arrived on Good Friday in 1519. It is still one of the most important ports in Mexico. The Spaniards used this town as a base from which to conqueror Mexico City/Tenochtitlán a short while later.

We checked into our hotel, the Imperial, which overlooks the main square. Our room is OK, overlooking the aircon units at the back of the building, however the TV didn’t work. Trying not to be too British about it, we decided to complain. On leaving the room we heard an almighty bang, and dashed into the bathroom only to be met by a large jet of water coming from the toilet – think Jet d’eau in Geneva. Within seconds, water had flooded out into our bedroom, then into the hallway and then into the bedroom next door. We grabbed our kit and ran.

Barbara ran to reception to warn them of the impending disaster, only to be met with a nonchalant response. We were soon to realize why…

One upgrade later (junior suite overlooking the main square, with a balcony, mezzanine level bedroom, mega bed, and huge bathroom with drips of water clinging to the ceiling) we were smiling and relaxed into our new salubrious surroundings. We could get used to this but I guess we had better not.

The tree lined Zócalo (main square) has a pleasant buzz from early morning to late in the evening. Marimba bands play to the diners sitting at the cafes and restaurants under the colonnades. And now that Christmas is approaching, there is large Christmas tree, beautifully decorated with thousands of tiny lights.

In the evening a band plays while the locals dance – the dance is called Danzón and originated in Cuba.

Next Morning (4^th Dec) and sick of eggs, we headed to a local bakery enticed by the window display of sticky buns and other forbidden delights. We ate breakfast by the terrapin pool overlooked by the lighthouse.

Next stop was the Aquarium – cost 60 pesos per person. As you enter you are met with beautiful toucans and parrots perched inches from your nose, although most of the rooms contained tanks full of fish and sharks from the Americas. Although the main tank was closed, for us the highlight was the manatees.

A trip to the City Museum (Museo de la Ciudad) is really worthwhile, although all the information is in Spanish. Entrance is free, and there is a copy of an Olmec head on display.

Overall we have found Veracruz to be a pleasant place to break our journey, and the strong breeze makes walking around in the heat bearable.

We’re now heading to Palenque on the overnight sleeper coach, changing buses at Villahermosa.