Uttar Pradesh: Agra & Varanasi

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Agra and the Taj Mahal

Our trip to Agra was centered around a visit to the world famous Taj Mahal. Charlie, Anna, Wendy and I arrived a bit shaken into Agra at 6:30am, or so, to be bombarded by auto-rickshaw drivers trying to give us rides to hotels of their choice. This can be extremely frustrating and attacking when you aren't sure what area you want to go, where you are, or what time it is. We got a hotel in Taj Ganj about a 2 minute walk from the Taj Mahal's gates. We were only there for the day but wanted a room to rest and freshen up in. 250 rupees between the 4 of us. We got some "Breakie" (as the aussie's would say) on Shanti's Lodge's rooftop restaurant to discover a perfect Taj view, which got us really excited.

After freshening up, we headed to the Taj's gate. Security is pretty tight. Men enter one security line and women on another due to the VERY thorough pat-down. They do not allow lighters or "toys" (I forgot I had a small stuffed animal in my bag) so between the 4 of us we ended up checking 1 plush toy, 7 lighters, and a pair of scissors. Entry fee is high for an Indian landmark, 750 rupees (about $17), which is equivalent to 5 nights in a hotel for us. However, the price is worth it, it's by far the best maintained monument/tomb we've seen in India. Lush green lawns hundreds of workers repairing the marble inlet and pathways, colorful flowers, polished surfaces, shoe covers are handed out to be worn on the white marble surfaces. The entry gate is in red stone with white marble inlet. From a distance the building looks solid, but up close the detailed carvings and inlet marble are visible. Most notable is the door frame of white marble with black onyx elegant Arabic script, which are part of the Koran.

Entering the gate through more metal detectors, presents the bright white Taj Mahal. It's magnificent! Across a wide waterway and bright green grass is the domed building, it's 4 outer pillars, with a red stone (matching the gate) Mosque to the west and an architectural copy, the Jawab ("answer"), to the East. On the rear of the building is the Yamuna River with lots of buffalo in it. As you approach the Taj the intricate detail of the carvings are more visible. Your eyes are tantalized with marble floral inlay patterns, sparkling metallic patterns on the top reflect the sun's rays, optical illusive metallic arrow patterns and continuing script of the Arabic Koran boarding the entry's ways. Stunning doesn't even begin to explain the stone work. One flower, smaller than the palm of your hand, has 66 cut stones in it. Similar stone work and patterns are available for purchase, as we later learned, when our tour guide sneakily lead us to one shop. (We recommend getting a guide, they are very knowledgeable about the history and point out lots of overlooked details, it's a set rate, I think 200 rupees).

Inside the tomb is more outstanding floral patterns of lotus flowers which you can run your hands over smoothly. Some terrible people have actually stolen stones from the masterpieces, it's unthinkable. Architecturally it's symmetrical, artistically is a handmade masterpiece, one that could never be recreated (mostly because in order for the craftsmen who made it to get paid they had to allow their hand to be chopped off, or so says Han our guide, who did not look like his ID photo, but was very informative). If you want to know more history, look it up, there is too much to go into. It was spectacular and I'm glad I could share the beauty of the visit with good friends. A pilgrimage that shouldn't be missed.

For sunset we walked around the outer gate to the river banks for the "Free" view area. We skipped the Agra Fort and got some rooftop dinner.... love that Malai Kofta, yum, before heading to the train. 4 people, in 2 auto-rickshaws with 4 packs became a tag team race. Our drivers were off darting through traffic, we were trying with much difficulty to keep our bags inside the vehicle at all times. As usual our driver opted to pick up his friend to give a ride on our route. Not to worry, the drivers never slow down to let their friends out, they have to jump. As usual, the train was delayed, so we sat rail side awaiting the 12 hour ride to Varanasi.

This was Anna, Charlie, Wendy and my 5th overnight transport together, so we had our system down pat. Kick the people out of our seats/beds, roll out the sleeping bag, put shoes on the fans (to keep them off the floor and safe from being knicked), get chai from small boy walking through the aisle with a carafe larger than himself for 3 rupees, settle into a book, while listening to the gentle chorus of snoring train riders already asleep.

Varanasi, aka Banaras

[n.b. The Ganga River can be referred to as either Ganges River or Ganga or Mother Ganga. Additionally I have found lots of spelling for Sadu- this is the one I like the best].

A standard arrival. Walking out of the train station getting more or less attacked by auto rickshaw drivers desperate to chauffeur us someplace. We blindy picked a hotel in the guide book (I have mixed feelings about guide books, they are useful, but cumbersome) and headed to its restaurant to eat and regroup. Wendy and my rickshaw driver was having engine trouble (not unusual) and held up the line at the train station exit. It seems this is a big no-no, as a police man came over and kicked and slapped him upside the head (we have not seen any punching in India, only slapping) to get him to push the mobile to the side of the road as to not block traffic. We were completely shocked, but another driver assured us this was "normal" procedure necessary to keep traffic moving, so we gave them a head-bob (meaning "ok") and were on our way.

Word to the wise, book ahead for Varanasi. Every place we called was booked, Many who come to Varanasi never want to leave. A meal, many phone calls and a cycle rickshaw ride, by a 60 year old man, later we settled into Central Varanasi off Dasashwamedh (main ghat). Much is happening down on the Ganga. The river is used for bathing, laundry, cremation, morning dips, boat rides, transport, praying, sewage dumping, and my favorite bathing your buffalo. It's a happening holy river. The ghats that line the water's edge all have wide stairs that head down to the river in varying sizes and styles.

More than a tourist destination and musically hip city, Varanasi is a pilgrimage site for Hindus. People come from all over the world to pray and even to die in Varanasi, as to be cremated along the Ganga River. Out of respect, no pictures are to be taken at the cremation ghats of the wooden fire piles. You can watch though. Wendy and I were watching a cremation and met one of the undertakers. He was extremely informative in explaining the ceremony to us. This was all before he attempted to lure us to his Silk Shop. To be brief, the ashes are spread into the river, completing the life cycle, the undertakers are allowed to keep the jewelry they find in the ash.

There are sunrise and sunset ceremonies praying to the Ganges, similar to what we saw in Rishikesh. The shores are additionally lined with Sadu villages. Because the Sadu's color of choice is Day-glow orange (a holy color, along with red and blue), all the tents are orange. Some do not wear cloths at all, others cover themselves in ash, just ash. They have chosen a religious possession free life, spending their days smoking hash, conversing about Sadu topics riverside and playing cards. One particularly famous Sadu (we saw him on a postcard before our arrival in Varanasi), showed a crowd his "mind over matter" skills by tying his penis to his trident (tridents are to Sadu's what chalices were to rapers 5 years along, they are also a symbol of Shiva), and twisted it around and around and around, between turns he'd hit his chillum (hash smoking pipe), or would bang his drums. I was very impressed. Real Sadu's don't beg for money, they "ask" or bless you for food like Chapatti (bread). Special Sadu's like this one do tricks for free.

Varanasi has great energy with a variety of people there. In 2 days we walked the ghats, sat in on ceremonies for sunset took a sunrise boat cruise, watched a dance performance at Raja Ghat and met more motivated travelers. On February 24, we said bye to Charlie and Anna, and our new friends Patti and Jon, as well as India.

In an unnecessarily stressed rush to the airport we had to leave breakfast before getting our tomato cheese toasties (a tourist staple). Charlie was kind enough to run through the streets, dodging stray street cows, as we were pulling away in the taxi. The 1 hour and 1/2 ride only took 45 minutes, even with the taxi drivers personal errand running stops. Getting checked in at Indian Airlines was an adventure in itself. Perhaps because the Varanasi airport is small or because there are NO computers, we experienced much confusion not aided by the nutty Israeli tour leader yelling at everyone for not being in line (there was no line).

What was learned... on Indian Airlines 1st class is often only $10 USD more than economy and the "air waitrons" wear saris. You can't bring 500 Indian Rupee notes (you can use the Indian money in Nepal, you get 1.6 for it against the Nepali Rupee) into Nepal, so change them early as to avoid the 20%commission at airport money exchange, and another hysterical line.