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TRAVEL BLOG ENTRY
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“"the southern most city in the world"” |
Denny and I are really getting to know and like this little town! We’re also getting our walking legs back! The first few days we went from end to end each day stopping at Travel Agencies to learn what the latest word was on “last minute availability.” Unfortunately for us one ship did not pass inspection for the tours this year and another sunk (as so many of you saw and emailed us about), so all the people on those two boats for the season had to either be refunded or re-booked if possible -- leaving not as many spaces available as in previous years. But there have been some and we considered all that we found. Our first preference would be to go for 21 days to the Antarctic, South Georgia Island and the Falkland Islands. LOTS of great wildlife all over those areas! The “usual” trip, however, and the most available, is a 10 day one to the Antarctic Peninsula -- but since when have we ever been “usual???”
There is also a sailing trip around the end of the continent (South America) to Cape Horn and back to Ushuaia. IF Denny could stand to sail – or take enough ginger to be able to do so – we considered catching one of those trips while we waited for the other. We also found some trails to hike and will do some trekking and canoeing in Tiero del Fuego National Park as we wait. I think we will not camp as it is COLD here – sunny most days, but cold. Temperatures range from perhaps the low 40s to the high 50s, but if the wind is blowing (and when is it not?), then it feels much colder. Dawn is around 3 AM (haven’t actually seen that) and sunset is about 11:15 PM. Restaurants and bars close at 4 and reopen around 8 for quite the nightlife (haven’t seen that either!). There's even a casino!!
Ushuaia is much like Jackson Hole in that the shops and restaurants cater to tourists, mainly the cruising crowd. Many of the most popular ships only carry 100 passengers ("research and scientific") and then there are the big cruise lines: the Rotterdam/Holland America and a Celebrity one have been here so far. Tuesday a ship for 300 came in with a majority of French on board and they mobbed San Matin, the main street. It was fun to walk along hearing Francais! The crowds on the street ebb and flow according to what ships are in port and the time of day.
Our B&B is clean and friendly, a great deal for $45/night – we are meeting a variety of people with whom Denny has great conversations, political and other! Most people forgive us Bush after we express our dismay and they vent as well. Many are truly worried about the US’s future, and thus, the world’s. A group stayed up WAY late last night speculating together -- what a diverse set of opinions! http://www .welcomeargentina.com /bybnahuel/index.html
A highlight of our stay so far was our visit to the Museo Maritimo de Ushuaia and the Presidio. Housed in the old Ushuaia jail and military prison, it is a unique adventure. I could have stayed for days (but my feet rebelled)! Each arm of the prison is re-designed for something: art exhibits, both modern and native peoples (art on the walls of the cells), a museum store (goods on shelves all throughout the cells), the actual prison un-renovated and too haunting (empty, decrepit cells), the prison museum (charicatures and stories of various political and criminal inmates, pictures of prsioners at work, shackles, escape attempts etc), maritime history (different cells telling the story and depicting various explorations like Magellan and Shackleton), local flora and fauna etc., etc. Truly a unique and fun way to use the space!
Next day: HURRAY! We have made our choice and booked a trip to the Antarctic and Falkland Islands! This is a compromise for us because of the time and money, but we are excited! We were offered the one we wanted also (21 days) but would have had to wait until February 6th to take it. Now we are leaving next Tuesday, the 22nd, for 11 nights and 12 days. We are excited too that we will be returning via Cape Horn. Here is a link to the itinerary and ship on which we will travel if you want to know more: http://www .adventurefleet.com/fleet /the_adventure
Thursday we found an awesome trail and had a great hike to the foothills above Ushuaia. Since we were just "exploring town/taking a walk through neighborhoods" we were not really prepared for an all day hike, but will most likely go back for a longer day hike later this week. There is a stream running alongside a good distance of the trail. Not much vegetation though and we doubt there is any wildlife to be seen. Lots of birds though! Parts of the trail reminded us of New Zealand -- mud, mud, and more mud! But then this too is a maritime climate!
Coming back down through a residential area we continue to be surprised at the architecture of the homes from square cinder block and cement to creations like this red one! And the colors! Our bright green B&B is typical! Everywhere the people are warm and helpful. The children stare -- is it my white hair?
There is an abundance of large dogs with short legs -- Denny, of course, befriends them all. About half are chained, the others roam free -- rarely do you see one being walked on a leash. But clearly Argentines love their dogs -- and you should see all the many sizes, types and styles of dog houses! Too, too wonderful!
previous travel blog entryComments or Questions for the Author
cousin brasil says:
Glad you made the ship. Take lots of pictures, I´m living vicariously through you. I´ve trekked with you, but now my fee hurt. Be with my well wishes
patti318 says:
Incredible! May you have smooth seas and accommodating animals. Take lots of pictures, of course. We want to hear all the great stories when you get home. We are packed and ready for our own Bonaire adventure. Luckily, we'll have Internet access so we can follow your adventures. Happy sailing!
ornerydrunk says:
Say Hi to Antartica, I hear it is warmer than the temp. in Green Bay on Sunday :-) Enjoy!!
HannahK says:
Hurray! Your going to make the boat! Have a wonderful time.