Uganda - Kampala

Anyone would think we were in Wacky Races by the speed we have suddenly started moving across this vast continent (and I mean VAST - we saw an illustration the other day pointing out you can fit in Argentina, India, Western Europe, the US, China and another country I can't remember into Africa with room to spare). So, with Chris playing Dick Dastardly and me Penelope Pitstop (though with vastly shorter legs and I in fact am the one with the Dick Dastardly nose) we arrived in Kampala, Uganda.

Now we have travelled (briefly) between other African countries we realise fully how poor Ethiopia really is, and you notice how much better the housing is elsewhere. This was especially true in the part of Kenya we travelled through on our way to Uganda, with no site of the thatched, mud huts that are prevalent in Ethiopia. But then again, as soon as you cross the border into Uganda, this country seems poorer than Kenya. It is so strange to travel a matter of metres into another country and see the standard of life visibly change.

Anyway . . . Kampala. It has an extremely beautiful setting and is spread over 7 lush, green hills. The city centre is sheer chaos, with minibuses, dalla dallas (motorbike taxis) and pedal bikes vying for domination. As a pedestrian you don't stand a chance, especially as you can hardly breathe for the pollution. Chris managed to cross a busy road ahead of me and I couldn't pluck up the courage to go for it. A passing Ugandan woman found this hilarious and grabbed me by the hand, laughing all the way as we played Frogger to the other side of the road.

Nearby Lake Victoria provides hydroelectricity for the city but the government is restricting supply as they are in danger of literally draining Africa's largest lake dry. So you have power on for 24 hours, off for 24 hours. At least that's what our hostel owner told us but maybe it was just that he had received a large bill!

According to the Lonely Planet (which we are starting to conclude is actually a pile of crap and not to be relied on) Ugandans are some of the friendliest people on the planet. The same author talks about prostitutes a fair bit and we were wondering if this is why he thinks they are so friendly. Although we would hate to judge a whole country by its capital, the vast majority we met were, at best, fairly sullen.

Most of our 3 days in the city consisted of enjoying the excellent bars and restaurants and catching up with a friend who is working with Medecins Sans Frontieres, as well as more completely fruitless attempts to get travellers cheques. In fact, we couldn't even withdraw money from the cashpoints and can officially discredit the 'for everything else there's Mastercard' adverts. Anyone travelling in Africa - get a Visa card.

We are back in Uganda to actually explore some of the country but for now are heading off in true catch the pigeon style to Kigali, Rwanda.