Walking the ´W´

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We had five days to trek the popular ´W´ circuit around the sites of the Torres del Paine National Park. Having done our prep, we decided the safest option was to ensure we had a bed for the night was to hire a tent El Calafate and camp at the many campsites around the park (although this meant lugging a heavy tent, sleeping bags and grub around with us).

We trekked the ´w´in reverse, from West to East. We started by catching the boat across lake Pehoe to Lodge Paine Grande, where we set up camp before walking up to the viewpoint for the view of Glacier Grey. Again, another massive glacier. Again, spectacular. Back to camp for pasta and sauce, what would along with porridge and noodles become our staple diet for the next five days. I should add that it is a long time since either set up a tent. Quite an amusing quarter of an hour as we struggled with to get it the tent up. Early night after a carton of wine. Sleep massively disrupted by the pig (well that is what it sounded like) sleeping in the tent next to us.

The next day we trekked beside lake Nordenskjold to Los Cuernos. It would have been an easy trek, but for the great loads on our backs. Still turned out to be one of the easier walks we did while in the park. (We had read a website before arriving saying the walks were all fairly easy. Yeah right!). Arrived mid afternoon shattered after an accumulation of early mornings and latish nights. Set up the tent again (only ten minutes this time) and crashed for a siesta - while in Rome.... After another carton of wine and more some noodles/crackers and tuna we crashed for an early night in preparation for a hard day´s trekking the following day. Sleep was however disrupted this time by a howling wind. Around 1am it started: howls from the valley getting louder and louder before they hit the tent. We were slightly concerned when parts of the tent started to flap freely, seemingly when we thought they were fastened securely down. Perhaps we should have spent that extra five minutes setting up camp!

Bleary eyed and after a bowl of porridge the next morning, we set off in the driving rain for valley Francais - what many consider to be the most spectacular part of the park. Unfortunately, due to low cloud and us keeping our head to save our eyes from the rain, we couldn´t see much. We had read before we came away that one can experience four seasons in one day here. We were a little sceptical about this - I mean it´s summer right? However, half way up the rain turned to hail and then to snow! A snowstorm. Crazy place. After scrambling over boulders and dragging ourselves up the valley we got to camp Britanico, where we decided to head back down as nothing to see in the snow and low cloud. We were just about to head back down, disappointed, when we met a couple from the States (who we owe a beer to) who persuaded to us to keep going; once in a lifetime an´all. Thank goodness they did. Got to the lookout and the skies cleared and the sun came out. In fact I think we got slightly burnt whilst admitting the amazing views of the Torres. Needless to say it was spectacular. We returned to the snow/rain and back to camp. More pasta and wine and early to bed for another day with a full pack.

Next stop one of the gateways to the Torres mirador: campamento Chileno. Pretty long walk under blue skies most of the way, a lot of it up hill. Again not easy. With tired legs we set up camp in preparation for possibly getting up for sunrise the next day. As the weather was ok (not raining and we could see the Torres), we decided to check out the route to the mirador. this involved an ascent through a forest and up over more boulders - bit like rock climbing at times! The view from the top was stunning. We have never seen anything like it, even though the skies refused to clear and the sun stubbornly sat behind a cloud. These three great towers rising from a warbled marble plinth over a green lake. Truly beautiful. Back down to our tent. We treated ourselves and had a meal cooked by the refugio that night. Along with a bottle of local plonk of course.

Woke up during the night to wind and rain and decided we preferred the warmth of the sleeping bag to taking a risk on sunrise from the viewpoint. (Would have involved getting up at 3.30!) When we woke we couldn´t see the towers, so figured we had got away with it. Headed to the final stop at hosteria Torres for the bus back. Snoozed in the sun for a couple of hours before getting the bus to El Calafte, drained, proud and full of great memories. What a place.

(incidently, we spoke to a couple who did make it up to the top for sunrise and seemingly it was spoiled by cloud.)