Tokyo - City of Contrasts

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Wednesday 1 November 2006 – We left home at about 6 am to drive to the home of our daughter Ruth, in Kent, and she and her husband Andy with our grandson Jacob came to the Heathrow Airport with us after we had taken our granddaughter, Hannah, to school. We had checked in with Virgin Atlantic the day before on the internet so we did not have to be there 3 hours but nearer to 2 hours and we managed this. We are travelling premium economy, a good step up from cattle class, and so had a dedicated baggage drop. It was then through security, much less onerous than I had suspected it to be, and on to a private lounge which we had booked in advance with 50% cash back. There was even priority in boarding. Not very egalitarian but we are definitely not roughing it on this trip!

The flight seemed less that half full – in premium economy it certainly was with only 18 seats of a possible 38 occupied. It made for a pleasant and peaceful flight which despite its length, 11 hours, was not uncomfortable and the service was excellent. We were able to watch several good films including The Da Vinci Code, The Queen, and were well fed and watered, though breakfast at 11pm our body clock time felt a little odd!

Thursday 2 November 2006 - The bus trip from the airport was one and half hours, something we could have done without after such a long journey, then we had to wait to get to our room. When we did get there we slept for about 3 hours in the afternoon although we knew that advice is usually to hold out and sleep at the normal local time. However, we had been on the go for over 24 hours and needed the sleep – it made the evening much easier.

First impressions of Tokyo – toilet seats that you can warm to your requirements, which was a bit of a shock at first touch! People who are very kind and polite, with lots of engaging smiles. Our hotel, or rather, a leisure complex with 11 cinemas (including IMAX), 9 indoor tennis courts, an 80 lane bowling alley, 20 restaurants, an aquarium and, as they say, much much more. We ate in one of the restaurants this evening and it reminded us a chain in New Zealand called Valentines, where you pay a flat rate and visit various stations and have what you and like. You can go back much as you like and the choice is wide – we particularly liked the puddings but what’s new?

Early tomorrow morning we are going on a half day tour of Tokyo and this will help us to get orientated. This was a good first day – still 77 days left!

Friday 2 November 2006 – A not so good day but still much to enjoy. The day started badly as we had to miss breakfast. The queue at the main restaurant was too long and the others did not open until 8am. We were due to go on a prepaid half day tour of Tokyo but our agents had neglected to provide us with the required voucher. In addition, we were directed to the wrong lobby – this complex is massive – and as a result missed the bus on which we were booked. To cut the story short we got on another one but had to pay again. We will be taking the matter up with the agent when we get home to get our money back!

The tour took us to a few interesting places but time was spent travelling around a very overcrowded city; much of which could have been in a number of other cities worldwide. It was when we entered shopping areas that its character came through a bit more.

The first stop was at the Meiji Shrine named after the emperor (1868-1912). We were extremely lucky to be visiting on the anniversary of his birth and it was also the national Culture holiday to commemorate the adoption of the new constitution after the Second World War. As a result it was busier than usual and there was a special ceremony taking place. Many women and, especially, children delightfully dressed in traditional costume, were quite happy to pose for photographs. The shrine was built in 1920 to honour the emperor and boasts the largest (wooden) gate of all the Shinto shrines in Japan. The only complaint we had was that we only had a total of 35 minutes at the site – a problem with tours and why we avoid coach travel as much as possible.

The second port of call was the Imperial Palace East Garden, formerly part of the emperor’s private garden. It was very peaceful and restful, with many opportunities for Elizabeth to get used to her new digital camera.. From there we went to a Buddhist temple but again it was very busy and time was short. We may return to this if we can find it and have the time. However, we are only here for a further day and a half. During the tour we were given an incredible number of statistics from the guide, who informed us that he had four jobs and worked 60/70 hours a week. One of the facts was concerning religion. It seems that 90% of the population is Shinto and 80% is Buddhist – work that one out! In his own family he said that he leaned towards Shinto, his wife Buddhist and one of his four children is a Christian! They appear to be covering their options rather well! It seems he has a small shrine in his home while his wife has a large Buddha and the son has a small cross.

We were dropped off in Ginza district which has the most expensive stores in Tokyo – we did no more than a little window shopping and had lunch – at least that was reasonably priced.

It is late autumn here but the weather is very mild and comfortable. It was possible to walk around in short sleeves. We travelled back to the hotel on the subway which we found to be impressive. Trains are wide with adequate seating and are very smooth and what is particularly good is the information system in the carriages that show the next three stations and how long it will take to get to each. In addition it shows all the connecting lines – all this in first Japanese but then in English.

Sunday 5 November 2006 – We are in another private lounge at Narita Airport, Tokyo, for business travellers even though we are travelling premium economy. More free food and drink! We are through passport control and security and awaiting boarding.

Yesterday (Saturday) we did a lot of walking around the city visiting various sights. The first was the Imperial Gardens, a different part to that which we saw on Friday. There were gates to the emperor’s residence and an attractive bridge. Once again we noted the contrast between the old and the new – face one way and it is the old, turn around and it is the less than attractive modern view. From there we had a brief look at the National Diet Building; home of the Japanese parliament. As we understand it, the system is similar to the USA with Senators and Congressmen. However, they have something like 720 in all in comparison to about 550 in the States with a population that is much lower. Our guide on Friday indicated that something should be done to reduce the number. We tend to say that about our MPs!

This morning was quite relaxing with a brief visit to Sengakuji Temple, a short walk from the hotel. We were the only visitors apart from a few devotees who said prayers and then departed. It was very peaceful, and with a number of graves. The following was gleaned:

“It houses one of Edo's most famous and most romanticized landmarks -- the grave of the 47 samurai. Most people in Japan know the story of the forty-seven samurai almost by heart. The Lord Asano was disgraced by the Lord Kira and committed seppuku (ritual suicide). Unfortunately for Asano's 47 retainers, their master did not have an heir. With no lord to serve, they were all now unemployed. Not only was their master disgraced, but their own lives were ruined. Late the following winter, the retainers set out to get revenge. They seized his home and eventually captured Kira. One of the 47 retainers offered to let Kira commit seppuku, but instead he begged for mercy. Disgusted by the coward Kira, the warrior chopped off his head and tossed it in a bucket. The 47 samurai then took the head to their master’s grave, located at Sengakuji. After placing their enemy's head on Asano's grave and saying prayers to their master, all 47 of them committed suicide, so they could join their master in death. The priests at Sengakuji buried all 47 next to their master. The grave has become a famous site for pilgrims and sightseers. People come from all over Japan to pay their respects to these loyal retainers, who were willing to suffer insults and poverty in order to avenge the death of their master.”

The 300th anniversary of the event was celebrated in 2002.

Monday 6th November 2006 – Flight to Auckland with Air New Zealand was very straightforward although I did not get any sleep – Elizabeth did. It is now 4pm and I am managing to hold out in the hope of sleeping well tonight. It will be an early rising tomorrow as we have to be at the airport for 6am for the flight to Adelaide. Three countries in three days! Once there we will be able to adjust to the time zone and, hopefully, be able to sleep better.

Premium economy on Air NZ gains over Virgin Atlantic in one respect – leg room. However, the seats are wider with Virgin and the service better. It seemed to us that a few corners had been cut since we last travelled with Air NZ four years ago but the crew are still very friendly.