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I had originally planned just 2 weeks here, it became very quickly apparent that this is not enough to see this spectacular Island. So having arrived at Allports hostel in North Hobart I had a day to do some basic planning. Buses here are not very regular, and cars are costly to hire. So I found a short 6 day tour with a company called `Under Down Under', ok its a tour, but it will get me to the main places I want to see, albeit a little faster than I would like, but my plan is to return to areas I like to see them more slowly after the tour is finished. Plus I have a friend living in Lanceston that I have not seen since meeting her in Bolivia in 2003, so I plan to go and spend a little time with Lauren and her partner Trevor while I am here.
Day 1. After a pick up from hostels around Hobart we have 11 people in total, plus Carlos (who is Argentinian, although now Tasmanian) from several countries including the UK, Canada, Poland Belgium, and Switzerland. Not everyone is on the same length of trip, so some will leave after 3 days and others will join.
On day one we headed to the east coast (which is warmer and dryer being in the shadow of the mountain range to the west.We headed out through dry plains and undulating hills from east Hobart, it looks so dry, the grass is brown here, and the hills are clad in regenerating native forest.
Lodging has been a major industry in Tasmania for a long time, particularly for Myrtul which is a lovely hardwood, this has resulted in the loss of vast swaths of mature native forest which is now being replaced with fast growing Pine which results in a forest monoculture. There is now a conflict of interest between the Lodging companies and the people of Tasmania over the loss of virgin native forest that is so important to both natural landscape and habitat for animals and plant life in Tasmania.
We arrived at Freycinet National Park after lunch for a couple of hours walk to the view point overlooking wineglass bay and a walk to the beach. This is a very beautiful area out on the peninsula of the same name with hills clad in thick forrest and native bush, plus the odd friendly Wallabie looking for lunch !!.
Wine Glass Bay, so named from the wailing days, Whails where brought into this bay for cutting up, and as a result the sea turned red, and the bay is shaped like a wine glass, hence the name wine glass bay.
This is one place I want to return to to walk the 2 day coastal track which I think will be very good.So after a short visit we headed to a wildlife sanctuary to see numerous wildlife, including the famous Tasmanian `Red Devil' and Wombats, and more Wallabies. I hope that I may see some of these in the wild rather than in a sanctuary.
From here we headed for Bishenoe Backpackers which is a short ride up the coast.
Day 2. Another 8am start and we headed for the beautiful `Bay of Fires', so called because when the white early settlers sailed past this section of coast the Aboriginal people lit lines of fires along the beaches as a warning. Pure white sand and clear aqua marine waters make for stunning coastal scenery. We have enough time for a group swim (rather invigorating I assure you as the water is on the cold side) and pictures here and some greta rock formations, the rock being mostly of granite. From here we headed we headed to The Blue Tier region further up the east coast for a walk to one waterfall (or not as the case was, as the path was closed) and a further insight into Tasmania's Virgin rainforest. From here we made our way across the north east corner of Tassie to Launceston, which is Tassie's second largest city.
Day 3. Is a day off from the bus and a chance to wonder through the Cataract Gorge and see some of the city. This is the final day for some of the group, although we met up with some of them in around the town, and in the gorge which mad a sociable day.
Day 4. Departing at 7am we headed for Cradle Mountain National Park in the north west of Tassie. This very beautiful National Park is also a UNESCO World Heritage wilderness area. Its also the starting point for the 5/6 day 85klm Overland Track which many come to Tassie to do. (not sure if I will do this as its rather expensive).
We arrived at the hostel at about 11.30am and made for the National Park just a short drive away. Fortunately we are blessed with good weather, only about 3 days a month here are good.Scott (who took over from Carlos in Launceston as a guide for the second part of the trip) took us up to the first view point, from here Dan and myself decided to have a go for the summit of Cradle Mountain. although at 1545m this is not the highest mountain in Tassie, its certainly one of the best, and a great scramble. We arrived at the summit at 4.45pm to be greated by stunning views all round. So after a short rest we headed down via the steep End track at the oposite end of Dove lake which sits in the valley at the foot of Cradle Mountain. We arrived back at the car park at 7pm, just in time for the 7.20 bus back to the hostel. On arrival Carol and Marilyn had very kindly cooked some dinner for us which we had bought together earlier in the day. So at 8pm we sat down to dinner, Catherine also joined us as she is now staying here for a few days after leaving the trip in Launceston. After a few beers and a good meal and lots of fun we retired at a respectable hour rather tired after 6.5 hours but very satisfied at an AWSOME day.I shall be returning here in a few days to do more walking.
Day 5. Its time to leave Cradle Mountain, and the weather is not looking so good today either. We now head for a short walk to Montezuma Falls. From here we are bound for the west coast and the strange site and experience of Henty Dunes. Its amazing to be able to be in a national park with high mountains in the morning, and by the coast and huge sand dunes after lunch. Such diversity of landscape on one Island is quite breathtaking. From here we headed for the hostal at Strahan on the west coast and a quick visit to the beach.
Day 6. 7.45 start, its rather wet and windy, and cold as we head for Lake St Claire National Park which is at the southern end of the World Heritage Area to Cradle Mountain, its also the finish point of the overland track. we have time for a walk in the damp patchy rain before lunch. We also visited the Franklin River and Russell falls en route to a brief visit to Mount Field National Park in stunning mountian scenery, or it would be if it where not for the rain and low cloud, although this does add to the atmosphere, and it would not be Tassie without some rain somewhere along the line. From here its back to Hobart, and time to say farewell to more members of the group, others will join tomorrow morning.
Day 7. This is my final day and a visit to Mount Wellington (overlooking Hobart) and Port Arthur to the south.
Mount Wellington is some 1200m altitude, its not completely clear with some low cloud, but enough to get some pictures, and its FREEZING cold, I could not feel my hands after 10 minutes.
From here we headed for Port Arthur. Famed for its 18th Century penal colony. Its very interesting to see and read about this place. The outer walls of the main prison blocks, hospital and officers quarters still stand and are being renovated. Its chilling to read and hear about various inmates here. This prison system in the UK, States and Australia are based on system started here.
Men and young boys (as young as 12) where incarcerated here as well as women. In the latter part of its life the emphasis changed from one of pure physical and mental punishment to one of reform by careful treatment and looking after with the aim of rehabilitation rather then punishment. Many who remained here became mentally insane and where treated in the hospital section which remains largely intact, quite an experience to see inside individual tiny cells!!.
previous travel blog entry
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