Yes, we have now seen some
cats! Lions, a cheetah and a serval so far, but the
leopard is proving elusive. We saw most of our lions and
the serval in the Ngorongoro Crater (Tanzania), the cheetah between
there and the Serengeti and more lions in the Serengeti NP.
The
Ngorongoro Crater was amazing. It was a horrible day when
we got up, raining, low clouds and we weren't expecting to be able to
see much as driving up to the rim of the crater we couldnt see much
further than the front of the landrover. As we went over
the crater rim and started going down inside, the clouds lifted and
we had the most beautiful views. The crater is about 20km across with
one large lake and loads of smaller lakes / waterholes. We
saw all sorts of animals there, herds of zebra, gazelles, Cape
Buffalo, wildebeest, families of hippo in the pools (none of them
would open their mouths for that toothy grin shot!), Ibis, hyena,
flamingoes, geese, jackels, and of course our cats. The
serval was a lucky find, it was sat up in some long grass and we only
saw it when it moved. We couldnt get very close. The
lions though, we got close to them. Not all the 16 we saw
in the crater, but most of them. The first three we young,
two females and a male, walking along about 15m from the road. The
next was a lone male trying to sleep, he was near a herd of zebra and
so obviously not hungry that they would be eating quite close and the
lion wouldnt bat an eyelid. We got a couple of good
stretches and yawns out of him! The next pair of lions we
still eating their latest kill, a zebra. They had blood still on
their faces and the male was limping from a fresh leg wound. There
were three jackels (a black backed pair and a golden/common jackel)
wandering close by trying to get some lunch, but the lions weren't
having anyone else touching their food. Just round the
corner from these lions was a pair of males lying on the side of the
road. There was us all with our biggest zoom lenses on our cameras
expecting the animals to be well off the road, and all we could
photograph of this pair was the hairs inside their noses we were that
close!! Then one of them struggled to his feet,
breathed some really bad breath into the Landrover, and promptly
leant against the back of it and went back to sleep. Cant
safely get much closer than that! The next three lions we
really close by, a male and two females just off the road. We
were treated to a couple of rounds of lion sex, and much stretching
and "purring". None of these animals we at all
bothered by us being so close. Our last lions in the crater were just
a group relaxing in the grass not doing anything.
On the way
to the Serengeti, about 1-2 hours drive from the crater, we saw our
only cheetah. He was following a group of gazelle and
wasnt too happy when our vehicles took off over the grass to chase
him. We werent too happy when five other vehicles did the
same and started circling him. The cheetah was getting
confused and worried, so we told our driver to back off a bit, some
of the others there did the same luckily but some people are still
more interested in the perfect view and photo rather than the animals
welfare. We put him right off the chase. He was
beautiful though, sleek, but a bit skinny.
The Serengeti wasnt
the animal playground and biggest open air zoo we were
expecting. The wildebeest were gathering for the migration
so we got to see more wildebeest than you'd ever need, thousands and
thousands, as far as the eye could see, and the land is flat there
and we could see a long way. Amongst them were herds of
zebra and gazelle, and the odd hyena hoping for dinner. We
saw some Topi which were new for us, and more lions!! Over
the afternoon and
morning that we were there, we saw two females
basking on some rocks, a lone female in a tree watching the passing
Thomsons Gazelle and zebra, the gazelle saw her and took off, the
zebra werent so watchful. There was a baby in the herd
that was always wandering alone at the rear, you could almost see the
lions eyes staring right at it and her drool forming at the though
of young juicy zebra! But then they saw her and made the
baby stay in the middle of the group. Once they had passed, the lion
relaxed and let tail and legs flop over branches and hang there. We
saved the best till last, two adult females and three cubs. There
was a pair about 6 months old and a single cub of around 4 months, so
both females must have been mothers. They were in a rocky outcrop and
we didnt see the cubs at first as they were in the trees. Once
they got a bit used to the vehicles, the adults didn't even look at
us!, they came out a bit for a nosy and play. We could
have sat there all day if we could.
We are now on Zanzibar and
enjoying more wildlife. Yesterday we swam with some dolphins -
awesome! - and saw the rare Red Colobus Monkeys, a species endemic to
Zanzibar. The dolphins we not overly playful, they came to
check us out, swimming about 2-3m from us. We could hear their
clicks and whistles under the water. They jumped and
twisted out of the water for us. There was also a turtle
swimming round the boat. The monkeys were really cute, some were
playing, some eating, others grooming and nitpicking. We also saw a
small green mamba in the forest there.
Zanzibar is an
interesting island, one that needs much more time to explore. We
have spent most of out time in and around Stonetown looking at the
old Persian baths, slave pens / market, fort and other old
buildings. We have also been on a spice tour. It
is suddenly very hot and humid again, and the mossies are back.
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