The east Asian financial crisis is now a distant memory, and the countries of Southeast Asia are generally gaining economic clout in the world; but the rate of exchange, not to mention the price of most goods and services, means that travel in the region is very budget friendly. In places like Laos or Cambodia, you'll find that you can live quite well on very little, and the region's resort destinations and luxury accommodations in general come at a fraction of what you might pay in your home country. ATM service is good in the larger cities but can be scant, at best, in some of the region's backwaters, with no service whatsoever in places like Laos and Cambodia. Traveler's checks, an anachronism elsewhere in the world, are still not a bad idea, especially in the developing countries of the region. Note that the U.S. dollar is the de facto currency for many Southeast Asian countries, particularly in Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia. Hotels, in particular, prefer doing business in U.S. dollars to dealing in local currency, a practice that helps them stay afloat amid fluctuating currency values. In some parts, everybody down to the smallest shop vendor quotes prices in U.S. dollars, and particularly the big-ticket items are best handled with greenbacks instead of large stacks of local currency.

While dealing in U.S. dollars can make things less complicated, always keep in mind local currency values so that you know if you're being charged the correct amount. In this book, we've listed hotel, restaurant, and attraction rates in whatever form the establishments quoted them -- in U.S. dollars where those were quoted, and in local currencies (with U.S. dollar equivalents) where those were used.

Note that, with the exception of the Singapore dollar, Malaysian ringgit, and Hong Kong dollar (which have remained stable), all other Southeast Asian national currencies are still in a state of flux. Before you budget your trip based on rates we give in this guide, be sure to check the currency's current status. CNN's website has a convenient currency converter at www.xe.com/ucc.

Currency

You will have to rely on local currency when traveling in many rural areas where neither traveler's checks nor credit cards are accepted. The U.S. dollar is the most readily accepted foreign currency throughout Southeast Asia, and it's a good idea to carry some greenbacks as backup.

It's not a bad idea to try and exchange at least some money -- just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel -- before you leave home (though don't expect the exchange rate to be ideal), so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs; most international arrival points in the region, however, have 24-hour exchange counters. You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office, or your bank. If you're far away from a bank with currency-exchange services, American Express offers traveler's checks and foreign currency, though with a $15 order fee and additional shipping costs, at www.americanexpress.com or tel. 800/807-6233.

Below we've listed the currencies of all countries in this guide.

Cambodia -- The monetary unit is the riel, which is available in 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, and 50,000 riel notes. Cambodia's volatile exchange rate typically fluctuates but is currently at 3,900 riel to US$1. It's a good idea to bring a supply of U.S. dollars, because the dollar is considered Cambodia's second currency and is accepted -- even preferred -- by many hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants. If paying in dollars, you'll get the small change in riel.

Indonesia (Bali) -- The rupiah (Rp) is the main currency, with bills of Rp100, Rp500, Rp1,000, Rp5,000, Rp10,000, Rp20,000, and Rp50,000, and coins in denominations of Rp25, Rp50, Rp100, and Rp500. Indonesia's currency was hit hard in 1998 and 1999, leading to exchange rates that fluctuated wildly. From a precrisis rate of approximately Rp2,300 to US$1, the rupiah plunged to Rp14,700 to US$1 in July 1998, but it has stabilized in recent years to Rp9,094 to US$1.

Laos -- The primary unit of currency is the kip (pronounced "keep"), which comes in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 100, 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, and 20,000. The exchange rate is approximately 10,835 kip to US$1. As in Cambodia, many tourist establishments prefer payment in U.S. dollars. In many areas of Laos, both U.S. dollars and Thai baht are preferred over the local currency.

Malaysia -- The ringgit, which is also referred to as the Malaysian dollar, is the unit of currency, and prices are marked RM. One ringgit equals 100 sen, and notes come in RM1, RM2, RM5, RM10, RM20, RM50, RM100, RM500, and RM1,000. Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, and 50 sen, and 1 ringgit coins. Since the economic crisis, the value of the ringgit has been set at RM3.80 to US$1.

Singapore -- The Singapore dollar (commonly referred to as the Sing dollar) is the unit of currency, with notes issued in denominations of S$2, S$5, S$10, S$20, S$50, S$100, S$500, and S$1,000; coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents and the gold-colored S$1. The exchange rate is approximately S$1.70 to US$1.

Thailand -- The Thai baht, (noted as B), which is made up of 100 satang, comes in colored notes of 10 baht (brown), 20B (green), 100B (red), and 500B (purple). Coins come in denominations of 1B, 5B, and 10B, as well as 25 and 50 satang. The exchange rate is approximately 40B to US$1.

Vietnam -- The main unit of Vietnamese currency is the dong, (noted as VND), which comes in denominations of 200, 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, and 50,000 notes. There are no coins. Most tourist venues accept dollars, and even in small towns you will at least be able to exchange greenbacks, if not use dollars directly. The exchange rate is approximately 15,000VND to US$1.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $1.50). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

Traveler's Checks

In most parts of the world, good ATM service in major centers makes traveler's checks an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. But be forewarned that the developing countries in Southeast Asia (Laos and Cambodia) have no ATM service. In fact, in most rural areas in the region service is scant at best. Traveler's checks are a sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash, and they can be replaced if lost or stolen and though you'll likely pay a small commission (1% or so), you will be saving on costly ATM withdrawal fees, which are often exorbitant.

You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You can also get American Express traveler's checks over the phone by calling tel. 800/221-7282; Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the 1% fee.

Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks without a fee at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard also offers traveler's checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location near you.

Foreign currency traveler's checks are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the euro zone; they're accepted at locations such as bed-and-breakfasts where dollar checks may not be, and they minimize the amount of math you have to do at your destination. American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks. You'll pay the rate of exchange at the time of your purchase (so it's a good idea to monitor the rate before you take the plunge), and most companies charge a transaction fee per order (and a shipping fee if you order online).

If you choose to carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money: They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or some other personal information. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks assess a 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa or MasterCard or American Express for currency conversion on credit charges. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in things like exorbitant ATM fees and higher traveler's check exchange rates (and service fees).