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“Don´t miss La Paz Waterfall Gardens if you come to Costa Rica!” |
La Paz is a true gem!
What a difference a day makes! Today I woke to the sound of a generator and workmen building an extension to the hotel here in San Jose. Planes rumbled overhead at intervals and we knew that we were back in the city. Our view - the new building site – our task is that of overseer!
Yesterday I woke ever so peacefully and the first sound I heard was the hum and whir of a hummingbird’s wings as it addressed a feeder right outside our window. I did not even have to stir to enjoy the sunlight gradually filling the valley with a wonderful view across the forest to the mountains beyond.
Today we had breakfast at the usual buffet of a large hotel together with business people about to attend conferences etc. However, we had the fun company of Jane who will lead our next tour – a wilderness adventure.
Yesterday, we sat on the balcony of the small breakfast room at La Paz looking out over the valley and gardens and waiting - with the birds- for a young man to deliver fresh bananas to the feeders. As we set up our cameras about 2m from the feeders, about a dozen different types of birds, most very colourful, flitted in and out of the close by trees. As they made occasional foray down to the feeders to inspect the contents, we made identifications of those birds we had seen before – delightful small birds with feathers bright and dull, from brilliant reds, oranges, pinks, greens and yellows to dun, dull brown. After the bananas were duly delivered, the enjoyment began for both birds and photographers. We were delighted by them all but were especially excited when a new species came to join the fray. There were squabbles of course – the term ‘pecking order’ did not just happen in our language! What a way to enjoy breakfast.
And then it was a walk down the hill, through the lovely tropical gardens to the butterfly enclosure to watch in awe as these magnificent but very fragile creatures emerged from their often very beautiful chrysalis. A wide variety of chrysalis are bought by La Paz every week from cottage gardens all over Costa Rica. They buy in about 2,000 a week so it’s a real cottage industry and all the butterflies so born are just for the enjoyment and education of those who visit these gardens. The chrysalis are pinned to frames at eye height so it’s easy to see the butterflies emerge. It is a long time since I had the opportunity to just ‘stand and stare’ and enjoy watching the birth of a butterfly.
It was fun to look along the line of cocoons checking for signs of a slight wriggle in the cocoon as the process begins. Then, quite suddenly, a crumple of wings emerges into the daylight. Gradually wings are unfurled for the first time and the patterns become obvious. Since they take up to three hours to dry out before flight, there’s plenty of time to look up close and personal and take in the complexity of the patterns. The new born curl and uncurl their proboscis before they ready themselves to fly free amongst the flowers. And then they are a joy to follow – ‘your’ butterfly, newly born before your eyes.
The enclosure has good signage explaining how the various plants play their part in the development of different types of butterflies. La Paz Waterfall Gardens is an excellent example of an educational centre dedicated to saving a large tract of virgin forest whilst at the same time educating about the plants and creatures that live in those forests. We met the owner, Lee, whilst out on a long forest walk earlier in the week. He’s a young American man who is doing a great job of putting ecosensative tourism into practice.
All too soon it was time for us to pack up and leave La Paz but our three days there had been very memorable indeed. From a very early morning walk along the waterfall walk – down and up hundreds of steps but every one of them worthwhile - to an evening encounter with the frogs of Costa Rica, the whole experience was great. We met several very well informed young people who introduced us not only to the butterflies and frogs, but also to hummingbirds. To hand feed a hummingbird is a chance to see the wonders of the myriad colours that combine to make that flash of brilliance in the forest. We spent time with a very knowledgeable young man who has, at home, venomous snakes as pets! He told us much about each of the many snakes on display. Another young man, Edu, took great pride in showing us the flowers of even the tiniest orchids – real treasures that most people walk right by. In construction at the moment is a very large ‘Avery’ which will be able to display many of the birds not easy to spot in the tree tops of the forest even though you walk quietly through the wonderful walks. These walks which are memorable for the many textures, shapes and colours of the leaves and the delight of finding flowers and fungi and butterflies.
The accommodation is fun even if very unorthodox. We can recommend a visit to this place – even if only for a day trip from San Jose but it was much better to have stayed there – despite the many steps that must be negotiated every time you leave your room! Even the walk up and along to the guests dining room is quite a long walk but the reward at night is a sky full of stars!
And then, as we prepared to leave La Paz, I was offered a massage, sitting on a special chair as I looked out over that wonderful view for one last time. As my good friend Jess knows, my back is quite knotted and needs massage. As Eduardo found each problem, he exclaimed softly “Oh Madame” and “Oh dear Madame.” Then he began work, crooning softly as he put life back into my, neck, back and shoulders! It was a wonderful way to say goodbye!
And then our new Costa Rican friend, Douglas, arrived with his girl-friend, Vanessa, to take us to visit the volcano Poas at 2,600 mtrs – similar to the height of Mt Kosciosko, the highest peak in Australia. Yes, the air was thin and breathing a little difficult when climbing upwards. But, how lucky were we! This volcano is usually covered by cloud, but we saw that great crater in perfect sunshine, steam rising from the vents, bright yellow in places where sulphur is expelled. It is an awesome experience to stand on the rim of a live volcano and it must have been an awesome explosion to make such a wide deep crater in the first place! We later took a detour up to an old crater now filled with water and surrounded by forest. The path up was difficult, but we were rewarded by a meeting with a delightful native squirrel. We took a forest walk back to the car park – the long way round and very steep – my calves certainly knew they had been given a work out when we got back!
The drive back to San Jose is delightful, through farmlands reminiscent of northern NSW. Many dairy herds but also huge tracts of flower farms, all owned by Americans with tropical plants grown for the US market. We saw kids coming and going to school – some in the school “bus’ – in the back of a pick-up truck. It was their first day back at school. In many of the villages, the numbers of students has outgrown the school size so the schools have a morning group ( from 700am to 11.30am ) and an afternoon group although most high schools have full day programs. All state school primary students wear white shirts and navy skirts or pants whilst high school students wear pale blue shirts. Private school students wear different uniforms.
And there I must finish – the maid has come to clean the room. So from us both ‘Pura Vida’ until next time
Love jennie and David
previous travel blog entry
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