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TRAVEL BLOG ENTRY
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Day 8, May 25
Larceveau to St. Jean Pied de Port
Distance: 20km
800km to Santiago, 152km from start
Despite a dire weather forecast on FR 1, we started the day with the promise of sunshine, which turned into a genuinely nice morning.
Today was our last day full in France as we worked our along a valley into the foothills of the Pyrenees. We got to St. Jean Pied de Port at about 12:30. It’s an old walled town and we arrived through the Port de St. Jacques, the traditional pilgrim entrance.
Worth noting that we saw six men wearing in berets. The record.
Came into St. Jean Pied de Port (literally St. Jean at the foot of the pass) through the traditional pilgrim gate just before one pm. It was just before the pilgrim office closed for the morning. A very helpful fellow with just a smattering of english gave us advice on the trip over the Pyrenees tomorrow. They also had scallop shells tied to a string available for the pilgrims. It's the symbol of Saint James on this route and you're supposed to tie them to your backpack. We picked out two nice ones, thanked the gentleman, and headed to our hotel.
While we were walking the town in the afternoon, we saw the Amish Looking Guy (ALG – we haven’t mentioned him ‘til now but he’d been a lone, quiet companion) and the Couple From Versailles (CFV) and Michelle. We’d met them most days since we started, and they’d been great company over the last 150km. The ALG was headed home tomorrow, and the CFVs were going to do the next few stages in smaller segments and do the same. We also shared dinner with a fellow from the Loire, that we also met during the last several days. It’s one the real pleasures of the trip spending time with these folks. As somewhat clueless but sunny Americans, I also think they enjoy us.
We’ve noted several kinds of travelers so far:
· Pilgrims traveling in the traditional sandals, simple over-the-shoulder bag, and staff. We’ve seen one of these so far. Truly amazing.
· Long distance travelers carrying their own things. We met one planning to go as far as Santiago. I think we will meet many more now that we’re in St. Jean and starting the big section of the Camino
· Travelers carrying their own things and doing the trip to Santiago in two – three week stages. These are the folks we have met, seen, and enjoyed the most
· Groups of six-ten people traveling for a week or so along the route with a daypack or less. They have their suitcases shipped from hotel to hotel often with a van pulling up every few hours for a nice cold drink or some food (or maybe to pick up those who feel a little flushed). They’re the largest number of people on the trail. An even distribution of French and Germans are on this plan. Despite the generous spirit I’m trying to keep on this journey, I reserve my darkest thoughts for these people. Really. Marie agrees.
Having said all that, we broke down and decided to have a service carry our gear over the Pyrenees. The climb is too high for too long, and the weather looked very iffy.
Big rain and lightning again this evening, with the promise of more tomorrow. Went to be early for a big day tomorrow.
Villages: Larceveau, St. Jean de Viex, St. Jean Pied de Port
# Men in Berets: 15 (cum)
previous travel blog entry
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