|
|
|
Rostov-Velikiy was, admittedly, a bit of a comedown after having just been to the lovely town of Suzdal. However, it was a necessary component of this trip of ours to Russia, as it further illuminated for us what this country is like. Of course, we are only barely scratching the surface of this amazing and fascinating country, but nevertheless, venturing outside of the tourist centers of Moscow and St. Petersburg is richly rewarding, albeit slightly boring or inconvenient at times. It's those moments, though, when traveling is the most fulfilling because it's YOUR experience, not that of every other visitor.
We reached the town after having taken a taxi for about 50 USD from Suzdal. When I say taxi, I mean a dilapidated station wagon with broken doors and windows that serves as the private car of an enormous Russian man (our estimable driver). While he had the usual stony and slightly scary Russian facade, he quickly revealed the other side to the complex Russian character: the warmth, generosity, and genuine curiosity of its people. This came about when Zach, in his best Russian, told him that Russia is a beautiful country. The big Russian man's face lit up, he said "Spasiba" (thank-you) and offered us two worm- filled apples that he had picked off of a local tree.
Despite my car sickness, I was able to enjoy the aforementioned gorgeous Russian countryside. The quaint homes of the people in Suzdal gave way to lush, open fields and the occasional run down Soviet-era factory. As we got closer to Rostv, though, everything began to take a more, shall we say, modern character. The houses became more rundown and we finally began to see the Soviet Union- not the pomp and circumstance of Moscow, but the poverty and strife. After going to Rostov, which is considered one of the nicest towns outside of Moscow, I began to see how the country is still dealing with the effects of totalitarianism. They are quite, quite poor, at least financially.
While the center of the town had a lovely Kremlin and a stunning, crumbling monastery off of the sparkling shores of Lake Nero, I couldn't ignore the state of things as we neared our hotel. The houses looked as if they had been drawn quickly by a cartoonist, set designs for a Tim Burton film. The homes literally leaned to the side and, in some cases, appeared to be sinking into the ground. Paint peeling, wild grass and gardens, and fences falling apart completed the details of each humble abode.
It was strangely, almost eerily quiet. The one statue of Lenin was not a good one, and looked as if it had been spray painted silver. There was a monument to fallen Soviet heros with fresh flowers placed there, presumably by dedicated town residents who had lost loved ones to the sickle and hammer. Many homes and buildings appeared abandoned and some seemed to have been the victims of fires or bombings. There were strange brick carcasses through which one could see the blue sky and whose interiors had become overgrown gardens.
But Lake Nero shimmered in the sunlight and the long reeds near the shore waved gently in the wind. Little rowboats rocked against one another as the waves gently lapped the wild shore of grasses, trees, and stones. It was still a beautiful town, in a sad and forlorn kind of way. The poverty of this town, to an outsider, is charming, in its way. To the wealthy, these colorful homes and old men riding bicycles is picture worthy, but to the poor it is the only life they will probably ever know. Charming, for them, it is not. But people still shop at the only grocery store, where they buy sausage and cheese and bread. Beer and vodka can be had with borsch at the local restaurants. It is the Soviet Union, but it is still Russia. It's beautiful.
previous travel blog entryComments or Questions for the Author
Auntie Foosie says:
Hi Heather! What an adventurer you are! I certainly am enjoying your stories, however I much prefer the hotels with the chocolates on the pillows! Keep writing, have fun and be safe!
Holly s Hobby says:
Heather, You have such a way with words. Russia sounds beautiful. Add some pictures so I can see if my image is close to the real thing.