Beautiful Roma!

6/11/07

Early start to get to Marleybone Station and catch the Easy bus (easybus.co.uk) which was very easy indeed and a smooth 90 minute ride in the mini bus to Stansted airport. We flew with Ryan-air to Roma - a budget airline with no reserved seats and despite the number of people who queued for ages before the flight, we still got exit row seats! On board we bought tickets for the Terravision bus from Campini airport to the city. On getting on the bus we noticed chewing gum on the drinks holder of EVERY seat (good to know they clean the bus). If we had waited until we had arrived at the airport there was a Rome airport transfer bus that was cheaper. Also as we discovered it probably would have provided better service as Terravision (great name also??) dropped us off in the middle of the road outside busy Termini station, with no assistance to remove luggage from underneath bus (Mike became the new luggage porter).

It was a short walk to our accommodation at the Welrome Hotel - where we met Mary Di Rosa. She gave us lots of information about Roma, directions and suggested "programs" (itineraries) and we learnt of the "second most beautiful" museum (obviously discovering on entry to the Vatican Museums which was the first!) It was also the beginning of our friendship with Mary who we later found out had opened the hotel in 2000 (jubilee) after studying business at College/TAFE and submitting a business proposal to the government. Rooms were on the first floor and named after landmarks in Roma (ours was Barberini) with venetian style windows that had views to the street but were practically sound proof when we chose to shut out the city. The room also had a fridge and tv - one english speaking channel American Mtv and we now know all the words to Alicia Keys and Rhianna and also think Britney's new clip is mild porn. There was also several home shopping channels which sold the very disturbing "vibro gym" (latest fitness fad) and thought the abundance of pornographic adult service chatline advertisements that replaced vibro gym ads were equally hilarious. Not forgetting the occassion flick to other stations and catching a glimpse of The Simpsons, South Park or House all dubbed in Italian (they don't do a bad job!) The reason we viewed so much tv while there is another story....

On our first night in Roma we headed to Pizzeria San Callisto which we had read about as the best pizza in Roma and with Mary's public transport advice took the bus to Trastavere (means across the river) which yes was across the River Fiume (not too much water in there though). We sat outside (very cold by the way but better vantage point) and tasted some different bruschettas (yum!) and then the famous pizzas that lived up to expectations, falling off the plate and were brimming with flavour and freshness. As it was very cold and as usual Mike's leg a little sore (don't worry coming to the climax of that story very soon..) so a very indulgent and satisfying gelati stop and then the bus back to Termini station and short walk to our fabulously central located Welrome accommodation.

Wed 7/11

We attempted an early start to beat the Vatican City queues and had breakfast at the bar recommended by Mary across the street where coffee and a croissant was 1.40 euro sitting down (generally sitting down not standing at the bar incurs 2-3 x the price). Our first coffee in Roma and did it set the standard!! It was such a small unassuming bar and it delivered our favourite coffee to date in Italy. So strong, smooth and just tastes so bloody good each day!! Only 0.90 Euro cents if had at the bar also. Everyone stops in each morning for their expresso or cappucino (basically what they call a latte - but none of this extra large or skim crap, just a small decent strong coffee!).

Despite Mary warning we had left too late and the queue would be too long at the Vatican, we only had to wait about 30-40 minutes and were in. A quick ride on the metro (underground train) to get there was quite easy also. The Vatican Museums were amazing - Mike said he was "shocked and amazed" at the age, size and history of the artwork within the museums. It became normal to be viewing art that was 100s of years old - most even twice the age of Australia! We snuck a few sneaky shots in the Sistine Chapel but it is impossible to capture the magnitude of paintings, primarily completed by Michaelangelo over a four year period, that cover the entire walls and ceiling of the chapel. Occassionally if the crowd was getting a bit loud the staff would simply clap twice and "ssshhhh" to silence the mob.

After the museum visit we went around to St Peter's Basilica which was also an amazing site - such a large public space, historic buildings, beautiful clear day and we even saw the Pope giving his weekly papal audience. Mike loved it (again "shocked") and we were pretty pleased with the photos.

We walked to Piazza Navona - there are literally hundreds of piazzas in each city, public meeting spaces historically for socialising which are now filled with bars, cafes and ristorantes and often very "turistico". Yes we have discovered turistico seems to be a real word (first heard it in Asia when spoken by our French friends) and the turistico menu (first, second course + drink) frequents the well touristed areas but it should generally be steared clear of!! We dined at a cafe around Piazza Navona and discovered this for ourselves. We then kept wandering and stumbled upon an even more lively Piazza which was home to the Pantheon - the largest dome structure of its kind. It is still not quite known how it was constructed. It also contains Rapheal's tomb. Also at that Piazza was a McDonalds but even the McDonalds set up in Italy is different - it is slotted in between other regular cafe/trattorias and the seating outside has proper high back seats and there are even table cloths. The visit to the Pantheon and walk back to the hotel via the President's residence concluded an overall very historic and amazing day (Mike going on about being continually shocked by the sights!).

The Supermarceto is also worth noting - there are no supermarket chains around (in small or capital cities) but they all have proper delis where they slice whatever meat you like fresh off the bone/leg. Communication was quite the challenge sometimes but in general of the countries we have visited, Italy is where we have picked up the language the most. If all else fails - "due cappocini/vino rossi pafavore" (although they would not work at the deli!). But there is a fine selection of wine at the supermarceto and even if you spend 4 euro on a bottle of a Chianti it is probably twice as good as a glass of house wine at an Aussie pub.

That night we walked towards the Trevi Fountain which is quite a statue/monument and of course attracts masses of tourists. Equally appealing to the area as viewing the fountain was the gelato shop San Crispino which is widely accepted as the best gelato in Rome, and of couse came with Mary's recommendation also (we are realising she knows her stuff and just Rome in entirety). It was divine! The banana was like eating REAL banana and Mike tried their trademark honey swirl (had a fancy name) flavour - little did Mike know he would end up consuming more gelato in the few weeks in Italy than he had in his whole life!

Thurs 8/11

A late rise and a walk to the Vittorio Emmanual II monument which is massive and recently a lift and panoramic viewing platform had been opened to the public. It was well worth the admission fee with fabulous views of Roma (just a note we have had beautiful clear days since we arrived) and all of the main sights visible. We took a bus to Villa Borghese which is a large park area and home to Galleria Borghese which is the "second most beautiful museum in Roma" (limited viewings and we were pre booked in by Mary). After the visit at the gallery we hired a two seater four wheel electronic assisted bike (ie moped on 4 wheels). It was fun but Mike was scared of my driving (there were some cars, buses and people also sharing the road) and he thought the experience peddling "might be therapeutic for his leg" because earler in the day he thought "I'm back, I'm recovering and stopping with the Voltaren (note: Asian variety of the stronger concentration)". It was also fun going downhill and flying over all of the bumps in the road....

Overall we recommend all of the sights we visited in Rome but regardless of where you walk/get the bus you are continually passing ruins that are hundreds sometimes a 1000 years old, on cobble stoned roads and amongst different architecture (well from what we are used to in Australia anyway).

That night we started with one of those nice bottles of Chianti from the Supermarceto and took the bus to near Piazza Del Campo Fioro to a fancier restaurant recommended in a guidebook. We had a fantastic bottle of wine and meal - a little above the budget but much enjoyed and also away from "turistico" crowds as all we could see were locals meeting up for a meal and drinks.

The next day our Roma experience took a bit of a turn - well a serious debilitating injury, numerous calls to our travel insurance company and two trips to the emergency ward to be more specific. We have made reference to Mike's sore hamstring, continued consumption of Voltaren and also the visit to emergency in London in previous blogs but by 5am of the next morning in Roma he had had no sleep and was in agony. We took a taxi to the nearby Pronto Soccorso emergency department. I won't go in to too many details but it was a very stressful and frustrating day and in summary Mike received NO pain relief until the FOLLOWING night.

The language barrier proved very difficult and it became clear they did not understand the pain Mike was in. After more thant three hours we left the hospital and thought we would try calling private doctors ourselves and our insurance back at hotel. Mary at the hotel was aware of the pain Mike was in and made her own calls too - to the hospital to ask why they didn't see us! "Apparently" waiting for English speaking doctor but when we took a taxi back for the second time (with a little hope) we ended up going through the whole process again, waited 3 hours and when Mike got through to the doctor (we do understand there are ambulances and more serious patients arriving) again we were met with a shrug of the shoulders and "no inglese". Fortuntately a kind-of English speaking doctor was found after a few calls and Mike went through the story and symptoms once again. He changed rooms quite a few times and eventually was given a diagnosis and prescription and advised to "take" the medicine twice a day for "many" days??

Due to a bus strike that day it was rather difficult to find a taxi but the staff at a cafe opposite the hospial must have take pity on us and kept trying to call different taxi companies. On arriving back at Welrome we were obliged to fill Mary in on the details and she seemed to keep giving advice on the drugs we were prescribed. I ran off to the pharmacy while Mike went to rest still in agony, hoping to arrive back with some pain relief asap. Though broken English the pharmacist tried to explain and gave me the prescribed medicines - I had already been quite emotional throughout the day so you can imagaine I nearly wanted to burst into tears when he gave me a box of syringes and few packets of vials of drugs. I ran back to the hotel, tried to avoid conversation with Mary, burst into our room, threw the bag at Mike and we both spoke similar words- "what the f%£k are we going to do with these??". The doctors at Pronto Soccorso hospital had prescribed intermuscular injection drugs without even asking if we knew how to administer them!

I continually called the travel insurance as Mike was in so much pain. He got no sleep and when I called them at 2am and then 4am I think they FINALLY got the idea it was serious and they should treat it as a priority. They said they would contact colleagues in Italy to organise an appointment with a private English speaking doctor at the International Medical Clinic. During this time and throughout the night, Mike said he contemplated just asking me to jab the needles in somehow to provide some relief. Initally the insurance people promised an appointment by midday the next day, and then it became 5pm but at least the doctor was to visit the hotel. Mike said the pain was like a continual cramp with electric spasm going all the way down the leg. A side note that Mike had been to the doctor only three times in his life before this trip and I introduced him to Medicare only a year ago - for him to need to go to the hospital I knew this was serious.

We were skeptical that the doctor would even arrive but at 5pm on the dot we heard the buzzer, I snuck a look as Mary quizzed him and filled him in on the situation. His English was not perfect but his manner and professionalism was the best we had encountered and gave us confidence in his diagnosis (and Mary was helpful to translate any additional questions I had, and of course quiz me of the entire diagnosis). He diagnosed Sciattica, similar to the hospital the day prior - the difference being this doctor could explain things and also took the initiative to teach me how to "shoot shoot" the injections in Mike's backside. Additionally he prescribed Cordizone for pain relief (unfortunately not as immediate as Mike had hoped). For those who don't know - the sciattic nerve is located in the lower back and runs down from the buttocks to the heel of the foot. When inflamed (typically by back injury) pain is often felt in entire length of leg. Mike assurses me (and probably will not forget this translation) that it was "delorio forte" (strong pain).

When the doctor did adminster the first of the "drug therapy" (10 days in total) I was able to produce the bag of drugs I purchased the day prior including box of syringes and alcholic saline and swabs for the "tasks" to which he responsed "oh you are mini pharmacia". In hindsight this was a light hearted moment for us to remember. Probably a little to much detail recountered here but good therapy for Mike and I to relive following that time - he was bed ridden for 4 days in total and then had to take it very easy ie walk to ristorante next door and the day after take the bus. Mary and Carlo (husband, slight possibility son??) were so helpful and happy to accommodate us for the extra days we needed to stay in Roma. On our last night Mike treated me to dinner at a lovely restaurant just nearby the hotel - which we both enjoyed but as Mike was on "drug therapy" he put me on "vino therapy" and I got a little drunk (assisted by that complimentary limoncello liquor which is quite strong). Mike took to catching up on coffee - after another sleepless night he thought maybe a more conservative approach to the local coffee was in order.

I did view the Colloseum while Mike was recovering - and took a guided tour which really made the experience. Interestingly enough Mike also viewed a type of Colosseum from the comfort of the bed - I had bought him a heap of dvds to relieve his boredom during recovery, including il Gladiator! (All with Italian text on cover but linguistic Inglese).