American Express-- There's an office in the Copacabana Palace Hotel at Av. Atlântica 1702, loja 1, Copacabana (tel. 021/2548-2148) that's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4pm. You'll also find one at the international airport, in the arrivals hall of Terminal 2 (tel. 0800/7020-777); that one is open daily from 6:30am to 10:30pm.

Code-- The area code for Rio de Janeiro is 021.

Banks/Currency Exchange-- Banco do Brasil has branches at Rua do Acre, Centro (tel. 021/2223-2537), Av. N.S. de Copacabana 594, Copacabana (tel. 021/2548-8992), and international airport, Terminal 1, third floor (tel. 021/3398-3652); all have 24-hour ATMs. For currency exchange try Bank Boston, Av. Rio Branco 110, Centro (tel. 021/2508-2700); Citibank, Rua da Assambleia 100, Centro (tel. 021/2291-1232); and Imatur, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 281, loja A, Ipanema (tel. 021/2219-4205).

Camera Repair-- Foto Cantarino, Largo de São Francisco de Paulo 23, first floor (tel. 021/2221-4918; Metrô: Uruguaiana), is one of the best repair shops in town. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm.

Car Rentals-- Hertz has offices at both of Rio's airports, and at Av. Princesa Isabel 500, Copacabana (tel. 021/2275-7440). Other car companies include: Interlocadora, Antônio Carlos Jobim International Airport (tel. 021/3398-3181) and Santos Dumont Airport (tel. 021/2240-0754); Localiza Rent a Car, Av. Princesa Isabel 150, Copacabana (tel. 021/2275-3340); and Unidas, Antônio Carlos Jobim International Airport (tel. 021/3398-3452) and Santos Dumont Airport (tel. 021/2240-6715). Rates start at R$100 (US$33) per day for a compact car with air-conditioning. Insurance adds another R$30 (US$9.90) per day.

Cellular Phone Rental-- Cariocas are cellphone happy -- even beach vendors carry them -- and if you're an avid user, you can expect to develop a serious case of cellphone envy. Fortunately it's not too late to rent one. Presscell (tel. 021/3322-2692, or 021/9617-2000 after hours; www.presscell.com) will deliver to your hotel. Call for an estimate.

Consulates-- Australia, Av. Presidente Wilson 231, Suite 23, Centro (tel. 021/3824-4624). Canada, Rua Lauro Muller 116, Suite 2707, Centro (tel. 021/2543-3004). U.S., Av. Presidente Wilson 147, Centro (tel. 021/2292-7117). Great Britain, Praia do Flamengo 284, 2nd floor, Flamengo (tel. 021/2555-9603).

Dentist/Doctor-- Try Medtur, Av. N.S. de Copacabana 647-85, Copacabana (tel. 021/2235-3339). Ask your hotel for further recommendations, as they may have an arrangement with a doctor nearby. For dentistry, try Sorriclin, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 207/209, Ipanema (tel. 021/2522-1220).

Electricity-- Generally Rio's voltage is 110V. Some hotels have plugs for both 110 and 220 volts.

Emergencies-- Police 190; fire and ambulance 193; tourist police, Av. Afrânio de Melo Franco 159, Leblon (24-hr. contact line tel. 021/3399-7170).

Hospitals-- Emergency rooms can be found at Miguel Couto, Rua Bartolemeu Mitre 1108, Leblon (tel. 021/2274-6050) or at Rocha Maia, Rua General Severiano 91, Botafogo (tel. 021/2295-2121).

Internet Access-- A Telerede Internet Cafe, Rua N.S. de Copacabana 209, Copacabana (tel. 021/2275-3148; Metrô: Arcoverde), charges R$2 (US65¢) for the first 15 minutes (minimum amount) and then R$1.50 (US50¢) per additional 15 minutes. It's open daily 8am to midnight.

Laundry/Dry Cleaning-- Lavanderia Ipanema, Rua Farme de Amoedo 55, Ipanema (tel. 021/2267-2377), is open Monday through Saturday from 7:30am to 9pm. A medium load, washing and drying, will cost R$15 (US$4.95). For an extra R$5 (US$1.65) the attendant will look after everything, and you just return to pick up your laundry nicely folded and packed. Lavakilo, Rua Almirante Gonçalves 50, loja A, Copacabana (tel. 021/2521-5089), is open Monday through Friday from 7:30am to 7:30pm and Saturday from 8am to 5pm. Charged by the kilo, a 1kg load will set you back R$7 (US$2.30) for washing and drying and an extra R$8 (US$2.65) for ironing everything. Dry cleaning starts at R$6.50 (US$2.15) per item.

Mail-- You will find post offices all over town; look for the yellow-and-blue sign saying CORREIOS. A few locations: Downtown: Rua Primeira de Março 64, Centro (tel. 021/2503-8331); Copacabana: Av. N.S. de Copacabana 540, Copacabana (tel. 021/2503-8398); Ipanema: Rua Visconde de Pirajá 452, Ipanema (tel. 021/2563-8568). The international airport also has a post office branch.

Maps-- Riotur (Av. Princesa Isabel 183, Copacabana) has some helpful small maps of the main tourist areas.

Newspapers-- There are no Brazil-based English-language newspapers or magazines. Your best bet for international papers are the newsstands along Visconde de Pirajá in Ipanema, and the bookstore Letras e Expressões, Visconde de Pirajá 276, Ipanema (tel. 021/2521-6110).

Pharmacies-- In Ipanema, City Farma, Rua Gomes Carneiro 144 A (tel. 021/2247-3000 or 021/2523-2020), is open 24 hours and delivers any time of the day as well. All credit cards accepted. Also open 24 hours is Drogaria Pacheco, Av. N.S. de Copacabana 115, Copacabana (tel. 021/2295-7555).

Safety-- Though Rio once had an unsavory reputation for street violence, in the early 1990s governments began to pour money back into policing and the results were dramatic. With cops stationed on city streets and public beaches, crime rates have fallen. That said, there are still several things to keep in mind. It's a bad idea to wander unaccompanied into any of the favelas (shantytowns) found in and around the city; this is where most of the crime in Rio takes place. In the ritzy areas like the Zona Sul, favelas cling to steep hillsides and ridgetops. It's also best to avoid the city center (Centro) on weekends, particularly Sundays. Though downtown merchants have recently begun a campaign to bring people back into the city on weekends, Centro on Sundays remains mostly empty, and more than a little eerie. Avoid the beaches at night, which are dark and mostly deserted (stick to the brightly lit and police-patrolled pedestrian walkway that borders the beach). At night, traveling by taxi is recommended -- don't rely on public transportation. Finally, as in any large metropolitan area, it's wise to observe commonsense precautions: Don't flash jewelry and large amounts of cash, and stick to well-lit and well-traveled thoroughfares.

Taxes-- The city of Rio charges a 5% accommodation tax, collected by the hotel operators. This amount will be added to your bill. There are no other taxes on retail items or goods.

Time Zones-- Rio de Janeiro is 3 hours behind GMT (2 hr. ahead of New York). During daylight savings time, Rio's time difference changes to 2 hours behind GMT.

Visa Renewal-- If you need to extend your visa go to the Policia Federal, Av. Venezuela 2, Centro (just behind the Praça Mauá) (tel. 021/3213-1400), open Monday through Friday from 10am to 5pm. The fee is R$65 (US$21), and you may need to show evidence of sufficient funds to cover the remainder of your stay as well as a return ticket.

Weather-- Rio's summers, from December to March, are hot and humid. Temperatures rise routinely above 105°F (40°C). In the spring and fall, the temperatures stay between the high 70s and low 90s (high 20s to low 30s Celsius). In the winter, June to August, it can cool off at night to as low as 59°F (15°C), but during the day temperatures range from the 70s to the mid-80s (20s Celsius). Most rain tends to fall in the summer in short intense tropical showers, or in the winter in longer drizzly showers.