380614 4 Location 552789 <p>Near the city's central plaza stands el Monasterio de Santa Catalina. The former cloistered convent has been one of Arequipa's dominating features since shortly after the Spanish conquistadors arrived.</p><p>The convent is so large that it has it's own streets inside, which have more recently been named after Spanish cities that they resemble: Sevilla Street, Cordoba Street, etc. It is no surprise -- aristocratic families used to send their second daughters to the convent by traditional obligation, and those aristocrats were mostly pure Andaluz. In fact, the families paid a hefty "dowery" to the convent so their daughters could live there and pray for them.</p><p>Though the notion of forced nun-hood sounds a bit archaic, life wasn't exactly rough inside Santa Catalina. After an earthquake destroyed much of the city, families built private (and very nice) residences for their daughters, and sent them with several servants each. In fact, the nuns hardly mingled and did no real work. They just sat around and were waited on -- ostensibly praying. If you can handle the celibacy, it doesn't sound like a bad deal.</p><p>The convent is perfectly preserved, though it was somewhat garishly painted with colonial colors before being opened to the public in the 1970s. While still an active convent, it was painted white. Now it glows blue and salmon. </p><p>Artwork decks the convent halls, and many of the nuns' parents sent them with paintings. Much of the art comes from the prolific Cusco art school. One room full of paintings is named Sala Zurburan, and after we walked out, I asked our guide if one of the paintings was done by the Spanish master. The largest painting, she said, had long been thought to be a Zurburan. However, upon (not much) closer investigation, experts realized that Zurburan had never been to Arequipa, had no connection to Arequipa and had never sent a painting to Arequipa. Also, the painting wasn't really that good, she said. Bummer.<br /></p><p>Santa Catalina is a can't-miss site, and go with a guide. For group tours, the guide isn't included, but you are expected to tip. This is pretty common with guides, and please try to be generous. Remember, an extra 10 soles means a coffee and a doughnut back home, but is close to the daily wage for many Peruvians. <br /></p> 2006-08-21T06:13:12-07:00 1094713361 2006-08-02T17:00:00-07:00 0 -9223372036854775790 242694 2012338 380614 0 228477 0.0430890825313137 2006-07-31T17:00:00-07:00 Published 25.0 2006-08-21T09:13:50-07:00 53850 0