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The train from Amsterdam to Paris goes by very quickly when you’re sleeping. We saw charming countryside and small villages. When we arrived in Paris at 9pm Monday night, but it was still light out.  We were delayed by the metro machines not accepting our credit cards, and by the time we figured out how to find our friend (we weren’t even sure he’d be there, let alone know we were coming), it was like 10 – dinner time for most Parisians. Thankfully, we found Jennica’s friend Felipe in the restaurant he runs, Le Petit Chatelet (www.myspace.com /leptichat).  He arranged for us to stay in a little apartment next door for that night.  That morning he treated us to fresh croissants, delicious carrot orange lemon juice, hot chocolate (Jennica), and tea (Laena).  He then gave us his apartment for our whole stay in Paris!! It has all the necessities including a nearby supermarket, metro station, and a schoolyard full of screaming children across the street (actually, their playful laughter provides nice ambience).

We spent Tuesday in Paris, cleaning Felipe’s apartment. We wanted to do something nice for him as a small token of our immense gratitude – turns out his apartment really needed it.  So we cleaned for a good portion of the day, walked around the 4th Arrondissement, then made it back to his restaurant just in time for a thunder and lighting downpour.  Felipe deciphered his menu into English, and we ordered delicious food that he did not let us pay for.  Jennica fulfilled her lifelong dream of eating raw ground beef with her meal of boeuf tartar avec frites.  Laena dined on whitefish on a bed of vegetables julienne. After finishing about a half pound patty, Jennica felt a bit off and was worried her body might be rejecting the large quantity of raw beef she had just eaten.  So, Laena suggested an appertif – when in Paris, eh?  Turns out ‘appertif’ means lighter fluid – or fruity flavored lighter fluid.  We met this challenge by implementing our shot-taking skills when our hosts weren’t looking (you’re supposed to sip it).  Turns out, it worked anyway and both of our stomachs felt great afterwards.

On Wednesday, we headed to Montmartre, exploring the cobbled streets, avoiding the aggressive street vendors (tourist exploiters).  We feasted on crepes, chocolate croissants, and a delicious, fresh, warm baguette (Laena’s first true baguette), all unrivalled by any you could find in the U.S.  We fed the birds the rest of our baguette out of our hands and toured Sacre Coeur.  

We have been informed that Jennica’s other friend, Flavien, is eager to accommodate us in Corsica.  The generosity of our French friends knows no bounds.

Thursday we went to Notre Dame and snuck some illicit video footage.  We tried to feed the birds with our gourmet leftover PBJ sandwiches (which we tried to give to a hobo, but he refused). There, a "regular" showed us how to properly feed them so they'll eat right from your hand.  After that, we went to the supposed best ice cream place in all of Paris, according to our hosts. It was delicious. Jennica had dark chocolate (of course), while Laena tried rhubarb. We also visited La Bastille on our way to Canal St. Martin, which you may recognize from the movie Amelie. That evening there was a music festival in the Chatelet, and we walked around listening to a plethora of different bands. There was even a "Native American" group who were playing something that sounded like Enya. A lot of music we've heard is French people covering American songs. Listening to French people sing along is funny.

Friday we went to Musee D'Orsay. It was pouring rain, and there was a huge line, but thankfully some American ladies from Virginia let us use their umbrella while we chatted. Musee D'Orsay is an interesting museum- apart from its impressive collection including a Picasso exhibit and Renoir sculptures, it also happens to be a retired train station. One of the Virginian ladies we met in line had been to Paris in the 60's when it was still in service!

The rain seems to have kicked up Laena's allergies, and her nose has become a leaky faucet. Luckily a pharmacy is down the street from the apartment where we are staying, and we were able to procure some appropriate medications. Now we just have to convince Paris to quit smoking (this in a city where a decided minority are non-smokers).  In spite of it's adverse effects, smoking is so hot we're considering lighting up.  But we're content to just watch the keenly-dressed populace at large and not die young.

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