In Pamplona - No Bull!

Well I´m in Pamplona now! I did a MAMMOTH effort yesterday by walking 38.5Km. (Try it sometime!) I actually only gained 37.5Km distance because I missed a turn-off early in the morning by 500m but as I was in the lead that early in the morning, I tricked another pilgrim into following me and we both back-tracked 500m to the turn off but as I walked it, it goes down on the tally count!

It was a long day but I got an early start. Those of you who know me well may not believe the following. I started walking at 6:10am! Only once have I ever started walking earlier than that and that was on a outdoor course when I had no choice!

By the time I had breakfast, I had a good 10-11.5Km under my belt. It´s a bit hard to work out how far you walk as there is no consistency between signs, books, guides or the GPS. A sign may say the next major town is only 9Km away. After about 25mins walking you see another sign saying it´s now 10.5Km but both signs point in the same direction.

¡Yo dar arriba!

Speaking of Spanish. If you come to Spain, and I mean anywhere Spain, learn Spanish! I found more people speaking English in Eastern Europe than here in Spain. Even in Pamplona which is about the size of Hobart with 200,000ppl.

When I arrived, the only Spanish I knew were the days of the week, Buenas Dias, Si, No, Gracias and Is Not Rat Is Hamster. I´ve met a German lady, Maria, who is walking for 2 weeks with her daughter, Jana. They, fortunately, know a little English and Spanish. They have been a Godsend! I am trying to learn some more as I go.

Some phrases I´ve learnt while here, but not through Maria, include:Estoy cachondo - I´d like a room for the night

Me encanta el reggae - I like rock music Si, pero No, pero Si, pero - Lo que sea! - I know a short cut

Tocame aqui - I´m doing the Camino de Santiago & I hope to be there by July 24

Lo siento, no puedo levantarla - I´m a sex god

I´ll be speaking fluent Spanish in no time!!!

So back to my trip, I ended up about 5Km from the centre of Pamplona last night and my feet were sore. Unfortunately, it´s not flat through these stages however, fortunately, these first few days are the worst and it gets easier from here. I decided to have a rest day today and just walked the 5Km into Pamplona and did some sightseeing. I´m a bit annoyed as the bull running starts next week and I would love to be here for it. Especially since the pilgrims accom is only €5!

I bought myself a red neck scarf/bandana as a souvenir and to keep my neck from burning once I get out of the mountains and into the desert! You can see them putting the wooden fences in place down the streets for the cowards/slow runners to quickly jump over before a bulls horn steals their choice to be celebate or not. I´d love to stay and run but much to my mothers delight, I can´t afford the time. My only choice is to do the run today but being chased by cars not bulls. (The route is highlighed in the tourist map)

I popped into the Cathedral in Pamplona and it was really impressive! There were about 4 chapels down one side of the inner part of the Cathedral. However, it was the first time I´d ever seen a carving of the devil in a church. Ok, he was lying on his back with about 2 seconds to spare before being stabbed with a spear but it´s still not a common carving. The main alter was amazing but inside a big cage no photos wouldn´t have done it justice. Marble floor and tiny alter with a giant gold pergola over top!

A quick warning to Hannah and anyone else who plans on coming here, all the guide books are correct. Pretty much EVERYTHING closes between 2pm and 5pm for siesta. Tourist info, post office, everything. Only Cafes and BIG departments stores stay open.

While I think of it, for those who are interested, I´ve added a link to a Pdf which has a profile of the walk and has it broken into stages. I think day one is exaggerated a little bit though.

www.aucoeurduchemin.org %2fspip%2fIMG%2fprofil_d _etape_imprim.pdf

Tomorrow I hope to get to Puente la Riena which s a city of about 2000ppl. It´s 22.5-25.4km depending on which guide you read but a little uphill in the middle.

Thursday I should be in Estella and Friday on the way to Los Arcos, I stop at Ayegui with the famous wine fountain! 2 taps with red wine and one with water (but Jesus will fix that when he comes back next time!) Saturday will be spent in Logrono and Sunday, as the good Lord said, is a day of rest!

Watch this space...