Oaxaca- Mexico to San Jose - Costa Rica

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Oaxaca, Mexico

Set in Beautiful mountain surroundings at an altitude of 1600m this Colonial city is one of Mexicos gems with a historic center full of superb buildings now mostly restored. It also boasts one of the finest churches in the whole of Mexico in Santo Domingo. (see photos).

Folklore, colour and numerous fiestas and its indigenous people for which it is famous make this a place worth seeing.

The historic center is dominated by Zacalo with mature trees, bandstand and colonial buildings and cafes around the outside of the square, the atmosphere here is quite and relaxed compared to Mexico City.

Most towns and cities in Mexico have a Zacalo (or Plaza as perhaps we may think of them in the UK.) This is a place where people simply come to walk meet and talk, its fascinating to just site at a cafe and watch. Often in the evenings there is some form of entertainment.

It took 6 hours to get her by bus through some stunning mountain scenery. mountains clad with huge cactus gave way to dense forest as far as you could see.

Its much fresher here, no pollution I'm glad to say. You certainly notice it, and the pace of life is much slower.

The colonial center is full of colour from the buildings to the local people and shops and cobbled streets, you can spend much time wandering around. The church of Santo Domingo is truly stunning, now fully restored to its forma glory with a ceiling of incredible detail and beauty.

Santa Maria del Tule

Famous for Arbol del Tule, (or Taxodium maculatum if I have got the name correct) is at 58m the largest girthed tree in the world and worth the visit.

Hierva Agua (Limestone waterfalls).

These stunning waterfalls set high in the mountains are spectacular, a huge cascade of limestone pours over the mountain side into the valley below. Here too is a natural spring and pools for swimming. Its hard to imagine a swimming pool with a more stunning backdrop than distant mountains. Here a picture speaks a thousand words.

Maya sites of Mitla and Monte Ablan.

Both these sites are within easy reach of Oaxaca and worth visiting. Mitla is the smaller of the 2 sites dating from around the Zapotect Period.

Monte Ablan.

We visited Monte Ablan by local bus, just twenty minutes from the center of town. Set high on a plateau overlooking the city with a 360 degree panorama and mountains this is a stunning setting and an interesting site too. The site consists of huge rectangular courts, raised pyramids, temples and shrines and a ball court (which are common to many Maya sites.

The city was founded in around 1000bc, Monte Ablan became the dominate city in the area, largely thanks to its location affording protection. It accommodated somewhere in the region of 20,00 people at its height. The city fell into decline around 700AD.

Mitla is far smaller and not so interesting, although it does have excellent stone carving.

San Cristobal del Las Casus

From Oaxaca we took the overnight bus to San Cristobal de Las Casus, set high in the Chiapas mountains, this area has a reputation for rebelion and a certain amount of unrest.

Not as colonial as Oaxaca but non the less worth the visit, and a base to visit Canon el Sumidero. This huge canyon is very narrow with mountains either side that tower to 1klm in height. The river winds its way through the canyon for several klm,s en route we see crocodiles and pelican, not to mention large amounts of debris from Hurricane Willma.

Whist staying at the Hostel Pasada Mexico both Alex and I join Wanda (yes, she really is called Wanda,) for a Salsa lesson in a hotel on Zacalo, this is one of the hardest things I have ever tried but good fun.

Yucatan

Once again its another long bus trip for myself, Alex and Lionel who is French and joined us in Oaxaca. The bus takes us to Palenque. and we stay at El Panchan some 3 klms from the town, set in dense jungle this is my first time in a Cabana. Cabana,s are simple wooden buildings (see photo) but rather cool to stay in, complete with Geko lizards and of course insects.

The following day we visit the Maya site of Palengue itself. Set in dense jungle it is one of the top Maya sites to visit in the whole of Mexico.

Palenque has similarities to sites in Guatemala, but the towered palace and pyramid tomb are like nothing else, the setting too (until you reach Tikal that is.)

Palenque was founded in around 100BC as a farming village, it was some 400 years before it began to flourish as a city during the classic period around 300-400 AD. Palenque ruled over almost all of the Chiapas and Tabasco region at its height during the seventh century. and was ruled by Hanab Pakal (Jaguar shield and Chan Bahlum (Jaguar Serpent).

The views from the tops of the temples is stunning, with the principal parts of the site before you views extend across the jungle and Yucatan beyond. Hot and humid here too, very different to the cool of San Cristobal.

From Palenque we headed deep into the Yucatan, this huge area jutting out into the Caribbean is dense jungle for the most part, However loss of the rainforest is all to clear to see with vast areas cleared in some instances leading to soil erosion. Much of the farming here is down to Maize, planted in small plantations all over the hillsides.

Our next destination is Campeche, on the northern coast. This is a quite place with not a huge amount to see, but the Monkey Hostel in well located overlooking the Zacalo which makes for a relaxed atmosphere with great views of the cathedral, especially at night.

Alex leaves us at this point to head back south to pick up a flight from LA. on the 3rd December. So he has to travel the length of Mexico in 12 days. Lionel and Myself visit the quite site of Edzna by second class bus about 1 hour from the town. Its good to be almost the only people here. Edzna was a large city on a trading route between the Maya of the highlands and the coast. The major features being the 20m high acropolis. and the Casa Grande which is some 55m long.

Visiting this site compleat with Iguana takes just half a day and we are given a free lift back by an American couple who we met at the site which saves waiting for the bus on a hot afternoon.

From here we catch the bus for a short (makes a change) 2.5hr ride to Merida at the eastern tip of the Yucatan.

The city of Merida has a population of 1 million and is a far cry from the relative quite of Campeche. The Hostel Nomadas once again provides Salsa classes run by a French chap, both Lionel and myself join the classes which last an hour and a half and are free. I have learnt a little, but the steps are hard to learn and can only be achieved with a lot of practice. I may be a little embarrassed when I return home and am asked for a demo.

Merida is a good place to visit the site of Uxmal which is about 1.5 hours by second class bus from the city. The history of this site is uncertain. Most of the site dates from around the Terminal Classic period (not exactly sure of the date of this). The site began to decline by 900 AD and, like Chichen Itza was all but abandoned by 1200 AD. The reasons are unclear, but loss of trade and ecological problems certainly played a part.

After a couple of days its time for Lionel and I to go different ways, its been an interesting couple of weeks and I count myself lucky to have a decent travel companion, especially as his Spanish is much better than mine.

So I head for Chichen Itza with 2 French-Canadion girls before heading to Valladolid. This sees the start of a lot of very early mornings and travel. As I am now en route to Tikal, Guatemala via Belize.

Chichen Itza.

To most people Chichen Itza represents the very image of the Maya, I have to disagree, although interesting I think it has suffered from its own reputation as the place to see, and as a consequence is heavily visited which detracts from the site in general. I was therefore a little disappointed, albeit that this site is definitely worth visiting, if only to see the size of the vast ball court and numerous temples.

The site is hugely important geologically. The city rose to power in the Terminal Classic Period (800-1000 AD), although it was established about 500 years before this date. There is much evidence here of human sacrifice.The huge ball court and Military activity point to a strong influence from central Mexico.

From this site we go by bus to Valladolid for 1 night and my first swim in a Cenotes, this is a huge sink hole or cave with stunning clear water, quite a setting for a swim.

The following days sees another very early start to the city of Chetumal on the Belize border. Not a place I want to visit again. I spent a sleepless night courtesy of a near by night club and a bus departure at 6am for Flores Guatemala.

This day goes well, 12 hours or so passing through the borders of Belize and Guatemala without problem I am glad to say, a few more stamps for the passport.

Not much to see in Belize I have to say, but worth passing through just to see a different country.

I much enjoyed my time in Mexico and have seen a lot in 3 weeks. I would certainly recommend to anyone to visit, Travel is very good with the ADO first class bus service, often at night which saves money and time. People are kind and friendly too, and although perhaps Mexico City may have a reputation with regard to Crime you don't in any way feel insecure, infact I dont feel insecure in Guatemala either, although you need to use common sense.

GUATEMALA

An Overview

(Spread across a verdant and mountainous chunk of land. Guatemala is endowed with simply staggering natural, historical and cultural interst. Though the giant Maya temples and rainforest cities have been long abandoned, ancient traditions remain very much alive throughout the Guatemalan highlands. Uniquely in Central America, at least half the country's population is Native American, and this rural indigenouse culture is a far stronger than anywhere else in the region. Countering this is a powerful ladino society, characteristically urban and commercial in its outlook. Guatemalas colonial past is evident trhroughtout the country, but noi more so than the former Capital of Granada.)

Having met up with Astrid who is Dutch the bus arrives late afternoon in Flores and a mini bus takes us to the small town on the edge of the lake. I decided to I have a night of luxury in a hotel after four days hard travel and early starts. Oh, tomorrow we are up at 4.30 as the trip to Tikal departs at 5am, GREAT.

Maya site of Tikal

Tikal dates from around 900 BC. The sheer scale of Tikal is daunting with the central area containing five temples. However there is evidence of the first ceremonial structures about 200 BC. Tikal became established with a large permanent population. The period between 250-300 AD saw the eruption of the Llopangio volcano in El Salvador which had a significant impact at Tikal as large areas of Guatemala where covered in ash. This affected trade routes resulting in bitter disputes which Tikal eventually won. The city grew to a size of 50,000 to 100,000 people at its height, its influence reached as far as Copan in Honduras.

Tikal is by far the most awe inspiring site, set in the dense jungle of eastern Guatemala,. The huge temples are spread of a large area, this is indeed an impressive city. You have to climb the huge temples and towers by very steep step ladders in many cases. Temple 5 is huge, well over 100 ft to the ground. The views from the top are very rewarding. Huge temples tower above the canopies shrouded in mist. The site is alive with the roar of Howler Monkeys and Tucan and Parakeet. We also saw plenty of Spider monkeys jumping around in the canopies high over our heads. I visited this site with Astrid, Thomas and Cara who is Argentinean which made for a good day for all of us although after six hours we are all very tired and hungry.

I relocate to the very friendly hostel of Los Amigo in Flores, complete with puppies and 2 parrots. I spend the following day with Thomas walking a jungle trail high above the lake which makes a change and is very quite except for the odd howler Monkey and lots of Spider Monkeys.

The night sees meet depart at 11pm for the night bus to Antigua, some 8 hours away. We arrive at Guatemala City at 5am (NO SLEEP FOR A CHANGE) and change to a mini bus, all arranged as part of the ticket, very efficient if you ask me. Arriving in Antigua about half an hour later. I then transfer to another bus to take me to Lago de Aitilan for a couple of days before I need to be back in Antigua to join the Toucan trip form 3 weeks to Costa Rica.

Arriving after 11 hours travel I am now very tired after little sleep over the last 4 or 5 days. arriving in Panajachel about 12.00 midday I find some lunch, accommodation and get some much needed sleep.

Lago de Atitlan is a stunning location in south western Guatemala, the lake has a backdrop of huge volcanoes which are impressive to say the least. So I have a couple of days, including enough time to visit the market at Chichicastenango for which it is well known.I spent a fascinating 4 hours here. The colours are minboggerling, so many and so bright its hard to describe. Oh and the children and market sellers are unbelievably persistent in trying to sell you things too.

The following morning I am able to get some more photos of the volcanoes before departure to Antigua at 9.30, it takes 2.5 hours over bumpy roads in a small colectivo (mini bus you us).

Antigua

A town of much character with colonial architecture and unrestored churches from the 1977 earthquake gives a certain charm, cobbled streets and galleries make this a worthwhile stop in Guatemala. This city with its cobbled streets and palm filled Zacalo dates from the 17th century, quaint streets and dilapidated buildings make for a nostalgic place to wander around. Although definitely on the tourist maps, very busy with lots of travelers, almost more foreigners that Guatemalans.

TOUCAN GROUP TOUR OF CENTRAL AMERICA

Friday was the start of an overland adventure tour with Toucan who are an Australian adventure company, should be fun. The are 18 of us, 5 lads and 13 girls and Emma who is the tour guide, shes a bit of a star and has only being this 5 months.

So we left for the Honduran border at 7am arriving in Copan at 1pm.

HONDURAS

The original Banana Republic, a byword for corruption oand poverty. Although we are passing through this country visiting the primary areas it is a country of often untouched natural beauty.

Copan is set in the mountains, a small dusty village just 1klm from the Maya Ruins of Copan. on our first night we visited the hot springs about an hour away along a track in an open back truck, Set in dense jungle the pools are as hot as bath water and very refreshing on a warm evening and certainly helps the cold I picked up on one of the buses through Mexico, super by candle light and a few beers and a chance to get to know people makes a good evening all round. This morning we visited the ruins of Copan with a very informative guide. Totally different from Tikal although it is influenced by it. Tonight we visit an orphanage which is something Emma is involved with and will I think be a humbling experience.

Maya ruins of Copan

Copan is one of the most important ruins on the fringes of the Maya world. Copan was first occupied about 1400 BC, although construction did not start until around 100 AD.

Little is known about the 7 kings that followed the rule of Popol Hol, son of YARK k,uk Mo who first set out the city and who's family ruled for 15 generations. But in 553 AD the golden era of Copan began with the Moon Jaguar, followed by the Smoke Serpent and Smoke Jaguar.The names all relate to gods.

Copan fell into decline due to overpopulation and climate change resulting in crop failure and an inability to sustain its self through general economic decline.

This site is a complete contrast to Tikal despite the influence of this vast city.

After visiting the ruins the rest of the day is free and rest time before we visit the local orphanage in the evening to play with the children. The are 35 in total plus some mums with them, although many have no family. This is a humbling experience indeed, But its great to have fun with them and they love the games and presents and food which we took for them. Before our arrival there was little in the way of food to feed 35 hungry mouths.

Next morning sees an early start for Tela, some delays as my rucksack is left behind by the guys loading the bus. So a very hot hours wait for them to arrive at the bus terminal half way and we can go on, the bus then brakes down which they manage to fix, so its 3pm before we arrive at Tela, all rather tired and hot, not to mention that Emma is severely stressed by this time. So a swim in the Caribbean helps cool things off somewhat before an Afro-Carabean evening in a local village and departure the next morning for the Roatan ferry.

Bay Islands (Roatan) Honduras

The Bay Islands are a group of Islands about an hour by ferry off the eastern Caribbean coast of Honduras, relaxed with an Afro Caribbean culture this a place to chill out and relax where the pace of life is just so slow and laid back.

After arrival here its an evening meal by the sea. Next morning we head from Roatan which is the small village on the northern end of the Island where we are based to West End Beach, beautiful white sand and crystal clear water, gorgeous to swim I can assure you. In the afternoon I am able to fulfill a long time dream to snorkel over the coral reef and to see so many marine fish and inverts its hard to describe.We have 2 days here before a long coach journeys to Nicaragua.

The following day is a day to recharge the batteries and not do a great deal except enjoy the moment.

The following morning sees the departure for The Honduran Capital, Tegus as its known. Just a stop over and definitely a place to leave off the intinary. Another early start by luxury coach for the Nicaraguan border which we reach about mid day. Like many Latin American borders its takes about 1.5 hours to cross.

From here we head for Managua, capital of Nica we we arrive at nightfall before a transfer to a smaller bus arriving in Granada about 7pm.

NICARAGUA

Is the largest country in Central America, but one of the least visted, after more than a decade of peace Nicaragua is synonymous in the minds of many with the civil war and the Contra Rebels, who still have considerale influence on the eastern part of the country which makes it unsafe to travel through according to the guide books. American economic sanctions have also had their effect the counries economy. But is a vibrant country with plenty for travellers to see and is fast becoming one of the up and comming travel destinations in the Central Americas.

The colonial town of Granada on the western bank of Lago de Nicaragua, which happens to be the second largest fresh water lake in the world after Titi Caca extends to the border with Costa Rica. The town itself is well worth seeing with much colonial architecture and central square dominated by the Cathedral. Not to mention that we have a hotel with a swimming pool.

The following day I take a 4 hour kayak trip around the inner Islands and Mangrove swamps of the lake which is very rewarding for wildlife with monkeys, Eagles and white heron to name but a few.

Today has been a quite and relaxed day, and I even sent the Xmas presents home too, hope they arrive in time.

So tomorrow we head for Ometepe a little further down the lake by ferry.

Isla de Ometepe, with its twin Volcanoes of Conception and Maderas is quite spectacular, unfortunately they are shrouded in cloud for our stay on this lush Island which proves to be something of a paradise. I think some of my friends back home would appreciate the diversity of plant species that are abundant in this microclimate. Bougainvillea in all colours, Dieffenbachia too, not to mention Tradescantia and numerous Palms. There are also large Banana and fig plantations. One thing here however is the wind, it never seems to stop blowing, 25 knots day and night, or at least it was for 2 days. but this is a good spot to relax in a quite location right next to the water.

We spent the second day walking to a water fall which was very hot and perhaps a little disappointing although it was good to have the exercise after much bus travel.

Costa Rica here we come

In sharp contrast to the turbulant recent history's of Nicaragua, Guatemala and El Salvador Costa Rica has become synonymous with stability and prosperity, Costa Ricans, or Ticos enjoy the highest rate of literacy and education as well os life expectancy in the Isthmus. Unlike its neighbours, the country has a long democratic tradition of free elections and no armed forces which where abolished in 1948.

Today we head for the border of Costa Rica, this is my final destination country in Central America, So this is country number 6, and San Jose will be Capital number 6. Which is the best city I hear you ask, why Mexico City without any doubt. This vibrant capital stands head and should above other capitals in the central Americas.

After another 13 hour day we arrive in San Jose after nearly 7 hours on a hot and cramped bus, One of my friends warned me about buses and roads in Costa Rica, he wasn't wrong on either count. The roads are full of massive potholes, and the buses are very slow and stop with monotonous regularity every few hundred yards. So by 8pm we are all very tired and hungry but glad too be here.

San Jose

Today is a rest day, as some people leave the trip and others join. Tomorrow we leave for La Fortuna and the Pacific coast. I am also looking forward to seeing some of the flora and florna for which Costa Rica is so well known. This will I hope be one of the highlights of the whole trip.

This evening sees the last day for a number of people on the tour so its a good excuse for a party, we certainly had that all right. One of the girls decided that we should sing the national anthems of our countries, so we had the anthems of Canada, USA, Australia, Germany, Scotland, Wales and the UK, plus the Canadian anthem sung in French. This is certainly one way to empty a restaurant of punters. Huge fun though, from here we headed in to the center of town for a late night, but not to late as some have a departure for La Fortuna early next day.

The bus takes us on a twisty ride through the mountains, vegetation here is stunning and we are not even in a national park.

La Fortuna

La Fortuna is a very small place which has become something of a tourist attraction, primarily because of  Volcano Arenal, this is an active volcano within site of the town. I    i     think it last erupted about 2 years ago, before that I think in the 50's , some time in the 18th century a village on the far side of the volcano was lost in an irruption. Unfortunately for us its cloudy and we cant see anything. The top spews out lava down the opposite side of the cone from La Fortuna and when its clear makes excellent photos at dusk. So we went to look anyway for half an hour up a dusty track but to no avail.

We then went for a meal nearby before heading to the Balneario Tabacon thermal pools, what a great place, about 14 pools of varying temperatures some with bars with planting and lighting. Some of the pools are so hot you cant get into them. So we spent about 2 .5 hours here.

Next day I decided to take a wildlife trip on a near by river which proved fascinating, complete with Iguana, birds, sloths, and Caiman, spider and Howler monkeys. this was an all day thing and well worth it. This was the first time I had seem some of Cost Ricas wildlife.

Some drama here too as Mike has his bag stolen in the middle of the night, long storey. Anyway he has lost everything including a passport and money, poor guy he only joined the trip 2 days ago, so Emma spent a couple of frantic hours sorting things out.

Today we head for Monteverde Cloud Forest, this turns out to be one of the trip highlights.

To get there we have to take a collectivo for about half an hour, then a boat for 1 hour followed by another collectivo to take us the last hour up dirt roads into thick cloud, its cold and wet for the first time, just like home really. We are high in the mountains, views would be great if it where clear.

Monteverde Biological Reserve

One cant fail to be impressed with this incredible ecosystem. its very beautiful to say the least, even if its raining very hard. There are huge numbers of species here. Monteverde covers an area of 105 sq klms, supports 6 different life zones hosting an estimated 2500 plant species, including over 450 types of Orchid,100 species of mammals, some 490 spp of butterfly and 400 spp of birds.

Jaguars exist here too but are rarely seen. We where given a guided walk which makes a huge difference, our guide points out so much. Not to mention that we saw a resplendent Quetzal, not only that, I got a picture into the bargain, (see photos). You have to be very lucky to see one of these, let a lone get a decent picture so I count myself lucky.

The following day is definitely and adrenalin day, first the foot bridges through the canopy, very atmospheric, then in the afternoon we did the 15 zip wire canopy tour, this is AWSOME fun, you have a harness and simply go on wires through the forest about 60 feet above the ground through the canopy for about 1.5 klm, the guys from the canopy tour company are at every station to clip and unclip you. Very eery when you cant see where the wire disappears into the cloud.

We also did a Tarzan Swing which was fun. So all in all the best day of the tour for most.

The following day we leave after more drama as Kelly loses all here money etc, another trip to the police station at 1.30am. Luckerley the guys from the Canopy Tour who we had been with in a bar the night before had found it and kept it. Needless to say Kelly was rather relieved.

Manuel Antonio National Park

So now we head for Park Nacional Manuel Antonio on the Pacific cost. Wow, we swap the rain for hot sun, surf and sand. This is a very chilled out spot, full of surf doods and a national park with beaches to die for right next door, and the water is just so warm. Infact the sand is so hot you cant stand on it. In the afternoon we arrive I cant resist going for a surf, its been a while but good fun. In the evening we have a good meal together.

The following morning Emma takes the group to the Manuel Antonio National Park. Its stunning, white sandy beaches and more wild life. The white faced monkeys are more than tame here, They have learnt what food looks like as Melissa found out when one stole here lunch (well crisps anyway). You have to be vary careful, but it made some really good photo opportunities.

The rest of the morning being spent on one of the beaches and swimming in the warm cristal clear Pacific. I pent the afternoon having a surfing lesson, Now I have some idea where I have been going wrong, I find I can stand up on the first wave now, Both Erica and Hanu also join in and also manage to pick things up quickly. So now I can go and practice so that I can do some more as I go. Fistral beach here we come.

After a relaxing couple of days, well for some anyway we have to head back to San Jose, AGAIN. to drop some people off and pick up others before heading to Tortugero National Park on the Caribbean coast. This beautiful National Park in pristine rainforest is very very remote. Only accessible by boat up the river from the port of Limon it takes 3.5 hours by launcha at 30 knots to reach the tiny village of Tortugero. Set on a narrow ismus of land only a few hundred meters wide between the sea and the river. You cant swim in either because there are sharks in the sea, and crocodiles in the river. so if one does not get you the other will.

This is a mecca for wildlife and Willis our Afro Caribbean guide takes us through the river system with thick dense jungle on either side. We see green parakeets, Tucan, Blue, grey and tiger Heron, Kingfisher Howler. spider monkey and Jesus Christ Lizard, numerous large Iguana, and black river turtle to name but some. Hopefully the photos will give some idea.

Its a lovely spot to relax for a few days, but this is probably enough as there is you only come here to see the wildlife. We are very lucky here to as it often rains, for us its clear and very warm. We only get a soaking on the way back to Limon.

So yesterday I left the Toucan tour which finishes on Wednesday, I have seen a huge amount with them over the last 3.5 weeks. Know I am back in San Jose and fly to Guatemala today to begin the second leg of my adventure on Tahiti where I will be for Christmas.

It takes just an hour and a half to get to back to Guqtemama City, I have booked into a small place close to the airport just for convienience, it takes about  two minutes in the taxi ti get there which is fortunate as i have to be back at the airport for six the next morning.

Its a five and half hour flight to LA, i was dreding going through here, but as it turned out it was not as bd as i had feared, just a long wait for the evening flight to Tahiti.

The story continues now under the Tahiti blog, although i have added for more photos from Costa Rica.