The Abel Tasman Coastal Track

Starting out on the track in the far northern part, above Waenui Bay

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www.doc.govt.nz/Explore /002~Tracks-and-Walks /Great-Walks/Abel-Tasman -Coast-Track/index.asp  

     Nelson is a really fun little town -- supposedly the sunniest of all of the country.  It certainly has been for the days we are here.  The kiwis continue to be warm and  welcoming.  We went into I-site (thanks for the tip, Hank) and made our camping and transport reservations for the Abel Tasman Coastal Track this week and the Routeburn Track (alpine) in Fjiordland for next weekend.  We looked at the Keplar too, and hope to do that one next week.  These are three of the "Great Walks" in case you want to look them up.  We are then off to Stewart Island looking for kiwis (the birds).

Spectacular coastline vistas...

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     Thursday morning we were packed and ready to go.  We left a duffle and a day pack with our "good clothes" and medications for the two months to be put in storage, taking only what we needed for this sunny, relatively easy track.  A three hour bus trip took us to Wanui, the very north end of the coastal track, and we started out on a piece of the inland track.  Talk about gorgeous!  The NZ rainforest is every bit as spectacular as the Australian one, less the leeches!   Amazingly the sandflies weren't as bad as the hype!  The repellent at least works for a while.  The sandflies are these  little knat like things that bite like mosquitos (mossies).  Of course there are also mosquitos!  But the breezes too are brisk and we were tramping -- they didn't keep up!  lololol

Our neat little MSR tent with an awning even!

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     Our first campsite was at Anapei Bay.  After about five hours of alternating climbs of between 150-300 feet, well-worn walks along the crests everlooking the coast, interspersed with valleys, or gullies, a path led us out onto a beautiful beach where 12 of us were lucky enough to book a tent space for the night.  We walked along the beach and watched the Pied Shags harass the seagulls and fish.  They are black with white bellies.  After they fish they hold out their wings to dry, standing on one leg.  It is like that kung-fu stance.  We watched for whales and seals but no such luck. 

     More of the same on Friday -- a little more grueling.  We got up early to make two          tidal crossings.  The last one we hit a little late and I was waist deep.  That was sort of fun!  There was also an awesome swinging bridge to cross and many waterfalls from the rains the night before.  Both of us were glad to get to our destination, Tonga Quarry on Tonga Bay.  We are carrying too much (as usual!).  The parts of the walk through the rainforest are stunning and cool.  It showered on us a few times, a light well-appreciated relief.  We stopped in at a hut this morning and I am really glad that we have our new tent!  The huts have these seven person bunks:  two platforms, one above the other, each with seven beds lying side by side.  Give me a wide open tent any night!  The one we (well, OK, Denny) are carrying weighs only 2 1/2  lbs.  It is all netting with a floor and a rainfly.  One whole side of the rainfly opens up and provides a spectacular view.  Our tent site opened onto the beach and drove us crazy all night -- waves can be very noisy!  

Timing our crossings with the tide.

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      Our third day was more stunning rainforest, waterfalls, beaches and views.  The trails are well-packed and marked with wooden bridges and steps where needed.  There are like a zillion beaches with walks of all lengths and difficulty in between.  "Water taxis" deliver people all along the way so anyone and everyone can be dropped off and picked up to spend as much or as little time there tramping, sunning, swimming, kayaking, or whatever. Driving one of these taxis(speed boats) would be your favorite job, T!  We met up with three special needs teachers on a four day holiday, kept leap frogging  one another and had a great time chatting with them.  One has invited us to stay with her at her home in Christchurch when we go through later this month.   At 4 we were on the Torrent Bay beach eagerly awaiting our taxi back to the  bus and our hostel in Nelson.  It was a great tramp, alternately joy and pain, as is always the case with backpacking!  Are we ready for the Routeburn next????