New Zealand

AUCKLAND, `City of Sails'

NORTH ISLAND 14.1.06

New Zealand comes with a reputation as a unique land packed with magnificent raw scenery, rugged coastlines and beautiful beaches, together with primary forest, snow capped mountain ranges, volcanic pools and guisers. A land of stupendous beauty.

With a population of just over 4 million and a land mass similar to the UK Its become the top travel destination for the last few years. I arrived here at 5.30pm local time on Saturday 14th January having left the Cooks on Friday (I lose a day here crossing the International Date Line ) after the 4.5 hour flight from Rarotonga. Much cooler which is a welcome restbite from the humidity of the Cooks and Tahiti. And its dry, which is great as its so often wet in Auckland. Its quite a shock to be dropped into a bustling City after 3 weeks of Island hopping I can assure you and it does take some adjustment.

Having visited NZ in 2001/2 things are not unfamiliar which helps a bit. A shuttle takes me to the Brown Kiwi Backpackers in the residential district of Ponsonby about 20 minutes walk from the city center. This is a relatively small hostel which is quieter than the huge ones in town that hold several hundred people.

So my first day in NZ is spent looking around the center and a bit of research into transport and my proposed route heading south to the Caromandel Peninsula on the east of the Huraki Gulf.

As its clear and sunny I also made a second trip up the Sky Tower which dominates the Auckland skyline. For once I am rewarded with some lovely views out over the gulf and harbour bridge with yachts out in the bay. After a longish day I headed back to the hostel for a meal and chat with fellow travelers.

Having planned things the day before I made an early start and headed into town to change my international flight to Sydney and book an additional flight back from Christchurch to Auckland which is the most cost effective way of getting back. So with transport arranged, including bus travel and the 9am ferry from Auckland to Caromandel Town I have the rest of the day to see the maritime museum and some of the parks. on return to the hostel in the early evening I am greeted to a group of Maori under the Skye Tower doing traditional dances including the legendry `Haka' , this was the first time I had seen this performed.

So this completed my stay in Auckland, having been here before 2 days is sufficient. Departing the Brown Kiwi at 8am I headed for the quay and ferry to Caromandel Town on a lovely sunny morning. This is a much nicer way to get to the Caromandel from Auckland than by bus. The Islands a very scenic in the early morning sun. Arriving at 11am the bus meets the ferry some 40 minutes from town. The bus takes me to `The Lions Den' which is a small hostel on the outskirts of the village, a very friendly and welcoming place with dinner for 15 dollars should you want it, or you can cook your own, this is indeed a lovely change from the hussle and bussle of the large city.

My original plan here was to get transport north to the far north of the peninsula and stay at  Fletcher Bay. After looking at the non existent public transport options (other than the local post van that does not always go all the way) I decided after talking to fellow travelers to take a tour that takes you to Fletcher Bay to walk the 3.5 hour Caromandel Walkway to Stoney Bay. The weather also tells me thats its going to rain the following day.

I am glad to say its a lovely morning and we are picked up from the hostel at 9am, just 4 of us for the walk. Jerry the driver explains all sorts of things on the way to Fletcher Bay and stops for photos where ever we want. After a stop for coffee  we start walking around lunch time in lovely sun, the views are wonderful across to Great Barrier Island. Its uphill to start with but flatterns out after a while. The views are stupendous for the length of this straightforward walk which reminds me of the North Devon coast of Exmoor. Big sea cliffs clad in native vegetation down to the sea. The latter part of the walk is flatter and shaded with tree ferns. Jerry walks to meet us about half an hour from Stoney Bay where arrive about 4.45pm to biscuits and tea / coffee. A day much enjoyed by all of us. The bus drops us back at the hostel at about 7.15pm. a few beers and dinner and some relaxation is due.

The following day is a quite day and rainy, just as well we did the walk yesterday I think. I visited the small narrow gauge railway with a couple of people from the hostel, a little disappointing for the 17 dollars.

Whitianga - 20.1.06

The following morning I departed this delightful hostel for the 1.15 hour bus journey to Whitianga on the opposite coast of the Caromandel. Its a small sea side town, and I have booked into the YHA backpackers which overlooks the bay.

This area is famous for Cathedral Cove and being volcanic for Hot Water Beach on the far side of the Estuary. The following morning Its a beautiful warm sunny day, perfect to visit Cathedral Cove. This beach is famous for the `Cathedral' like tunnel through part of the cliff and allows access to both beaches. Hiring a bike from the hostel is a good way to get there. Its a 12 klm ride from the ferry landing which takes about 45 minutes to an hour depending on how fast you ride.

Its a good ride with a sting in the tail, from Hahei its a steep climb to the beginning of the footpath and 35 minute walk down to Cathedral Cove. On my last visit here it was dull and grey and we came by Kayak and where not able to land because the sea was to choppy. Today its perfect, beautiful sparkling blue waters and the sand is so hot you cant stand on it for long. The surprise came when I went for a swim. Rather cold after the warm waters of Polynesia.

I arrived back at the hostel late afternoon and as the hostel was full I used the tent for the first time, not a bad idea as I need some extra pegs as not enough supplied, but it was fine and good to use having carried it around for 2.5 months.

Sunday is a rather quieter day and I am back in the hostel for the last night before departing for Rotorua tomorrow (23.1.06) at 7.30am, here I am booked into the Funky Green Voyager hostel which the book rates well.

Rotorua 23.1.06

After departing early and 2 bus changes I arrived in Rotorua at 1pm. The visitor center here is excellent and points me in the direction of The Funky Green Voyager. This is a lovely hostel run by Paul and Tammy. Very clean friendly and spacious, a good place to stay if any one comes here. After being shown round by Tam I went into town to sound out car rental etc.

The following morning its very wet and windy, just the sort of day for a day in the hostel, talking to people about where you have been and plan to go next and drinking endless cups of coffee. I joined Victoria from the dorm and another girl that evening at a traditional Maori feast and dancing, its still raining and blowing hard.

The following day ITS STILL RAINING, so i visited Te Puia which is a small thermal reserve just on the edge of town which is walkable from the hostel. Not quite as impressive as the main site near Rotorua but it does have great geysers. I walked back to the hostel late morning as I have to pick up a car at 4pm which I managed to get a good deal on after lots of research into transport around the Eastern Cape.

Bay of Plenty, Eastern Cape and Hawkes Bay to Nappier

My plan being to take the eastern Pacific coast route to Nappier and on to Wellington which I have not seen before. So having now got some wheels I departed the hostel and headed for Maraehako Bay Retreat (visiting `Hells Gate', a small thermal reserve enroute) in Whanarua Bay which is on the southern side of the Bay of Plenty. Once past Opotiki its a great drive along the twisty coast road with stunning coastal views. Not knowing quite what to expect I arrived at Whanarua Bay and found a sign to the above. This drive reminds me of home. It goes down and down a rough track until you come to the bottom and a lovely bay and equally delightful and very nautical hostel. The east cape coast of the north Island is predominantly Maori, and very cultural and QUITE compared to Rotorua and the main stream of travelers heading south for Taupo and so on. 

This hostel belongs to Pihi and his 2 sons. Its so different, but very welcoming just the same. The sort of place where you intend to stay one night and end up staying 3, which is about what I did. This place is RIGHT on the sea and very pretty and relaxing, just the sound of the waves at night crashing against the rocks. Pihi also has a fishing boat and takes people fishing (with a small charge just for bait).

The evenings are spent around an open fire on the lower terrace (although its very warm) as this keeps away the sand flies etc, talking and drinking beer, its fascinating to here about his huge family who al live near by, they own some 2000 acres around about the hostel.

The following day Pihi invites me to join him and his oldest son to go fishing for the day. This is after we have installed his latest piece of electronic wizardry. Well a combined GPS fish finder anyway. Could prove useful I think, except Pihi cant read / write very well so we have to help him understand how to work this thing (I am now glad I had my own GPS as we are able to check one against the other). So at midday we head out into the bay in bright hot sun and clear skies.

First we bait up a large number of hooks with squid for the long line. The baited hooks are attached to the line and this is run out over about 150m with a buoy at each end. We then headed out further to a ledge with the aim of catching Snapper and King fish. Despite our best efforts after 2 hours we have not had any luck, despite the fact that a boat about 25m away landed 3. We have to depart to go and retrieve the long line and also check the pots for Kray fish. The long line yields about 9 snapper and some other fish, enough for dinner for all tonight I think. After checking the pots and rebating them we arrive back in about 5.45 after a great day. Another evening around the fire follows to round off a memorable day. Its great to experience the culture of a country like this, I shall certainly carry these memories with me through my trip and beyond.

The following day sees my departure bound from Brians Place (also a friend of Pihi's) on the opposite side of the cape heading south. A friendly small hostel high above the bay with great views, or would have if it was not for the fog and grey skies.

I have 2 nights here and a chance for a break from driving as I have a couple of 300klm stints to do to get to Wellington by Tuesday night which is when the car is due in by.

There are 10 people staying in this tiny hostal which has lofts as sleeping areas which definitely give's it a warm homely feel, music, games and friendly people make for some relaxation for the next 36 hours.

Nappier

From here I headed out early on the 30th For Nappier, which is the art deco city of NZ. leaving at 7.45 I arrived in Nappier and Stable Lodge backpackers with enough time to walk round and get a feel for Nappier which on balance is probably worth the visit, although it does not demand much more than a day at most. Its famed for its art deco buildings after being rebuilt following an earthquake.

So its a flying visit and I departed at 8.45 for the last 300klm to Wellington arriving at lunchtime in the `Windy City' as its known

Wellington (`The Windy City')

Its was certainly windy when I arrived (about 35 knots of breeze down by the harbour), right at the tip of the south Island Wellington is renound for being windy.

Fortunately I managed to find the car depot without getting lost and dropped off the car, and its just a short walk to wellington YHA. This is a very big hostel and well run, just a 4 bed share rather than a big dorm. So I have enough time to head for the Botanic gardens and the famous tram which takes you up to the gardens. It reminds me of the Lynton and Lynmouth Railway, except the cars are bigger and are painted redand dont fill up with water st each turn around.

Its good to walk round the gardens again,and to see the rose garden which is in full bloom. Although this is a public garden with no access fee its interesting to see various plant collections. After a couple of hours I think its time to head back to eat as its 6 pm by the time I have walked round.

The following day I have the morning spare to look round the harbour. The harbour itself is dominated by Te Papa (which is the National Museum of New Zealand), I visited this a few years ago so did not go in this time, perhaps with hind site it would have ben a good idea to have had a look to see changes to exhibitions etc.

After collecting gear from the hostel I grabbed a taxi to the ferry for the 1pm sailing to the south Island which takes just over 3 hours. For once its not raining and although still quite windy I have some nice views leaving Wellington.

SOUTH ISLAND 30.1.06

Fortunately its sunny for arrival in the Marlborough Sounds. It takes about 40 minutes for the ferry to make its way in which gives lovely views. Rather like the Scotish Locks I think. The ferry arrived in Picton about 4.20 and I make my way to the `Villa', this rather attractive looking backpackers with lots of climbing roses and plants to the frontage is located in central Picton which is a small place at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound.

I had made a rough Plan to walk the remaining part of the Queen Charlotte Track whilst here. So after a days rest and getting food I set off early on the 4th Feb for Punga Cove.

The Queen Charlotte Track

The Queen Charlotte Track is a 67klm walk starting in Ship Cove at the northern end of the sound of the same name. It takes most people 3 days to complete with camping sites and hostels along the route. As I had completed some of the track 4 years ago I started at Punga Cove and walked the 27 klm or so to Lockmara Lodge. This is the longest section, High up on a bush clad wide ridge it provides stupendous views of Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds. Unlike some of the more popular tracks this is not overrun with `trampers' which makes it much nicer, I only met about 8 people between starting and arriving at the Lodge at 6pm after about 8.5 hours walking.

The following day I had a rest day and spent some time using the free kayaks to paddle around Lochmara Bay. After a rest warm sunny day I departed the hostel on 5.2.06 for the 40 min walk back up to the track high above the bay. Its 5 hours (about 16klm) from the lodge to Anakiwa which is the finish of this walk. I met up with Christof at the top of the path from the lodge, so we walked the 5 hours to Anakiwa together including a detour to the 475m high lookout which gives panoramic views out over the sounds. Its a cool and rather cloudy day for the most part, but wonderful to walk along paths with greta views nonetheless. The end of the walk is through dense predominantly Southern Beech forest with huge tree ferns so this is rather similar to the beginning from Ship Cove.

So we arrived at Anakiwa about 2.15, plenty of time for coffee from the snack bar and a sit down to wait for the 4pm water taxi back to Picton, just before it starts to rain.

The ferry goes via the lodge to pick up Mark as he is heading back to Wellington before heading north. Arriving back at Picton about 5pm I made my way back to the `Villa' for a good nights sleep and a chance to recharge the batteries before heading to Able Tasman and the `Barn' backpackers at Marahu.

Abel Tasman National Park

After changing buses I arrive at `The Barn' at about 4.30pm, funny little place right at the end of the beach and tucked away. I asked for a 4 bed share to get some much needed sleep, not shaw the girls where expecting me to be in with them !!. Anyway it was fine. The previous evening I had booked some sea kayaking as its supposed to be a fine day, sure enough its a great days weather, so along with Dave and another couple I have a full day with a walk on the Able Tasman track, complete with tea / coffee and lunch its a great to be on the sea again,(even if I am not sailing) very warm and good for photo's. After the lunch stop we have time for a walk over the hill to Anchorage Bay where the water taxi picks us up at 4pm to take us back to Marahue, this is a fun ride as its now quite rough.

The West Coast and the Glaciers

The following morning I am due to be picked up at 1.30pm by a local bus to travel down the west coast to Punakarki (better known for `Pankake Rocks' blow holes), and Connie is also going this way so I will see her later at the Beach Hostel. Its a wet day (just as well I am on the bus !!) and I am glad I did the kayaking yesterday. We arrive at about 8.30pm, not a nice night and I am glad to have a bed rather than the tent !!.

The next morning the bus departs Punakarki at 11.30am for Franze Josef, so along with Connie I go and have a look at the blow holes before catching the bus to Franz Josef where we are once again in the same hostel, funny how things go sometimes. I have found that the weather over the weekend is not good and so reschedule my plans to walk the Routeburn Tack for the 20th, (although I will look for a gap in the bookings to save hanging around any longer than is necessary) and decide to accompany my new friend on a day walk on the glacier (although I have been on Glaciers before) as its supposed to be warm and sunny after the previous days rain,(seemed a shame to spend this in the bus as the following day is supposed to be t wet again !). Sure enough it is, clear blue skies which makes for a good day, about 5 hours on the ice walking and climbing through huge crevasses  (ummm seems familiar), its a good day, especially as we have 4 Irish in the group. We arrive back about 5pm a little tired but all smiles.

Queenstown

So tomorrow its off to good old Queenstown. For me this has to be one of the most scenic inland road journeys in NZ, as you pass through Mount Aspiring National Park with stunning mountain scenery to Wanaka and on to Queenstown, lake Wakatipu and the `Remarkables' (which are a mountain range overlooking Queenstown). This area of the Southern Alps is very beautiful as I think anyone who has been here will agree.

After about 6 hours I arrive at the adrenalin capital of the world, you can do just about anything here, if you have endless amounts of money that is, unfortunately I am on a budget. So I wont be doing anything dramatic like bungy jumps. 

This area is also well known for its tramps, including Routeburn (which is on of the `Great Walks') which I am really looking forward too. I am not overly impressed with Bungi Backpackers so the next day moved to out to kinloch lodge on the opposite side of the lake lake from Glenorchy at the far end of the lake from Queenstown and a million miles away in comparison, definitely I good place to stay, quite with great views, and close to the start of the tracks as well.

Because of the pressure on tracks such as the Routeburn (and the Milford Track) the Department of Conservation have set up a booking system to limit the number of people on the track at any one time. After watching the DOC web site I managed to grab a slot for the Routeburn starting on the 15th February which gives me a day or so to get gear and food sorted. I met up with Dermid (from Dublin) and Claire (from South Devon) at the lodge who will also be starting the track the same day as me, and after a chat decide to make a loop and take in the Greenstone Track which joins the end of the Routeburn and will make a 5 day trek in the backcountry.

ROUTEBURN TRACK (32klm, 3 days) (Mount Aspiring and Fjordland National Parks)

The Routeburn track starts from Glenorchy car park shelter at the southern end of Lake Wakatipu and is about 20 minutes from Kinloch Lodge by car, so 5 of us are dropped at the start at 10.15am, although we actually started walking about 10.30am.

Day 1 15.2.06

Its a sunny day but with a cool breeze. The first 2 hours to the Routeburn flats (and hut) is easy, walking through mature southern beech forest on good paths, the route follows the valley floor to a degree, although it gradually climbs to the flats which you don't really notice that much. Arriving around lunch time at this point. Both Mark and Britta are camping here (as they could not get tickets for the falls hut) so we left them and start the steady climb to the Falls hut (1000m) which we reached about 2pm. The hut sleeps 48 people in 2 bunkrooms and single bunks (which is better than some huts), plus a large kitchen which gas cookers. its also well sighted (as they nearly all are) with stunning views to distant mountains and the flats below.

Day 2, 16.2.06 - Routeburn Falls to MacKennzie Hut

today's walk is about 12 klms, plus we will take in Conical Hill (with a summit at 1500m). So after breakfast we depart the hut at 9am bound for the MacKennzie hut. Today is the Alpine section of the track above the bushline, luckely its a clear sunny day (with just some cloud, but not enough to spoil things). The first 1.5 hours sees a steady climb to the Harris saddle and shelter (1200m). After a quick bite to eat we leave the packs at the shelter for the 30 minute climb to the top of Conical Hill, complete with great views of the valley below and surrounding snow capped peaks.

After returning to the shelter and some lunch its time to head on along the traverse which takes up the afternoon. Toward the end of this section is a big decent to the hut which you can see way below alongside lake MacKennzie. We arrived here late afternoon. Time to chat with others on the tramp and a much needed meal, and coffee !!. Altogether a great day with stunning mountain scenery, its also interesting to see the vegetation at this altitude, numerous species of Hebe, Phormium (Flax), and Tussock grass, cover the mountain sides which we would definitely not get in the UK.

Day 3 17.2.06- MacKennzie to Howden Hut, start of the Greenstone Track

The first section of the day is fairly short, about 2 hours to the Howden hut at much lower altitude. After departing about at 9am I arrived at the Howden hut about 11.15, where Dermid and I waited for Claire as she is only going to this hut today before finishing at `The Divide' (which marks the end of the Routeburn) before going on to Te Anua and starting the Milford track a day or so later. So that left Dermid and myself to a further 6 lkms (1.5-2 hours walk) to the MacKellor hut on the Greenstone Track. The Greenstone is a ???? klm walk through the valley which comes about on the shores of lake Wakatipu some 12 klms north of Kinloch Lodge.

This track is not one of the `Great Walks', and is as a consequence much quieter, hut are also on a first come, first serve basis, so bunks are not guaranteed, hence the need to carry a bed roll just in case. Fortunately we arrived about 2.15 and its quite, so no problem with bunks. Just 12 of us for the night which is much quieter, no gas cookers or electric (its bring your own here).

Day 4, 18.2.06) MacKellor to Greenstone hut.

The next morning sees a 8.50 start for the 15klms to the Greenstone hut through mixed southern beech forest and open grassing land in the valley floor. Very different vegetation here, mostly Tussock grass and little else. The path meanders through the valley alternating between open pasture and beech forest. Arriving at the hut (which is brand new and on the other side of the valley with great views once more) around 2pm we are the first to arrive (other than Rina who has had a day here). There are only 9 here tonight so its quite, a few games of cards until we cant see and its time to get some sleep for the final 15 klms to the end of the track.

Day 5, 19.2.06

8.50am start, the path here is much more up and down than the previous day, but we made good progress reaching the car park about 12pm. Its another 2.5 hours walk for Dermid back to the lodge, or that was what he was expecting ( I had booked the water taxi before leaving). But to our surprise, just after arriving in the car park Dave who we had met at the MacKellor hut turned up in his camper van and offered us a lift, great timing !!. So no need to wait until 2pm for a water taxi,or a 12klm walk either. So we arrived back at the lodge about lunch time after 5 great days, with stunning weather. 

After a days rest its time to move on and Dermid and Gerrard headed for Stuart Island while I spent a couple of nights at Manapouri before heading into the Catlins. (Winter also decided to make an unscheduled appearance, I awoke on the morning of departure from Manapurie to snow covered mountains and a rather cold morning.  

Catlins Scenic Coastal route

The Catlins is a section of Scenic coast in southern Ortago, which broadly runs from Invercargil to Dunedin around the bottom  of the south island and lower east coast. No regular bus route goes this way, so I used 2 local bus companies, one as far as Invercargil, and the other to Dunedin. The second is a tour (its the only way if you do not have a car), and stops at various points along the way, so you can hop on and off should you wish. I booked a very small backpackers at Curio Bay, a rather remote location with dolphins in the bay, a petrified forest and Yellow eyed Penguins (which are the nearest in the world nearby.

The hostel only has 9 beds, plus a wood burner, and lovely views over the bay. Nice and friendly, good job as its a very chilly day with an onshore  sever gale blowing, very glad we had the woodburner cos we certainly used it.

The following day the bus is due to pick me up at 2pm, which gave me 24 hours to look round, about right as its still very very windy and cold. The bus drivers are very good and tell you so much, and with a small group this is fascinating. This route is as much about wildlife and the Catlins as anything. After a visit to Nugget Point and the Penguin nesting area on this headland we arrived at 8.30pm in Dunedin, glad I have a room to myself at Elm Lodge cos I was tired when I arrived.

Dunedin, South Ortago.

The city (in NZ if somewhere has a population in over 50,000 then its classed as a city, regardless of size) itself is adjoining the Ortago peninsula, with steep streets its very much modeled on the City of Edinburgh, with some interesting architecture. 

The next morning its bright and sunny, so I had a look at the market, railway station, and the Botanic gardens which are definitely worth visiting. Tommorow I head north to Christchurch, just for one night.

After 6 hours on the bus I arrived in Christchurch about 7pm and bound Vagabond Backpackers where I am just for the night before catching the coach to Ackaroa and 4 days at La Bons Bay Backpackers.

Banks Peninsula.

This is definately a fitting place to complete my travels in NZ, vey picturesque, with mountains up too 3000ft this peninsula is the rement of a colapsed volcano, focused on Ackaroa harbour this is a lovely place, and quite compared to Christchurch.

La Bons Bay Backpers located high in the hills above La Bons Bay is in my opinion the best hostel in the country. Owned by Gary and Heidi, its their home as well as the hostle, Complete with log fires, free breakfast and dinner (for 12 dollars) which is cooked by Garry and crew, its very friendly and welcoming, far more a home than a hostel. I was here 4 years ago on my last trip to NZ, I am delighted to say it has not changed at all in this time, and still retains a wonderful charm and character that makes it so special.

I spent a couple of half days walking some of the walks around the hostel, and above Ackaroa. I am glad to say that the weather is much better this time than the last time I was here. Although we have had storms and rain at night its been ok during the day, except on the day I leave their is a real storm with sever gales and hale this morning. So Garry brought me back to Akoroa to catch the 2.30 bus back to Christchurch. And tomorrow I leave this lovely country and head for my Sidney and my first visit to Australia before a trip into the unkown of Tasmania, I wait to see what things await me over the next few days.