Naxos

The Portara, first thing you see arriving by boat

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We left Santorini with heavy hearts, not knowing what to expect in Naxos. After a 3 hour ferry ride we arrived in Naxos to the sight of the Portara and the venetian castle atop the town, and grabbed the transfer to our hotel, the Grotta, located just up the small hill.

The hotel was wonderful: beautiful, clean, right on a small seaside cliff, with views of the Portara and owned by two of the nicest people you'll ever meet. And to top it all off, the Grotta is located 5 minutes walking distance from the center of town, with its pedestrian walkways, restaurants, bus depot, port and archeological sites (including the Portara).

The beach in front of the hotel just below the cliff is small, full of pebbles, close to the port and the waters/waves are a little too violent to even be considered. But we found that a nice 10 minute stroll to the opposite side of town brought us to Agios Georgios beach with its clean, calm waters and beautiful yellow sand. Or you can also choose to take a bus from the center of town toward other beaches. On our third day we rode the bus for 30 minutes to Agios Prokopios beach and found out why Naxos is reputed for it's beaches!!!

Naxos town, topped with its castle, as seen from the Portara

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On our second day we took the bus to Halki, a town in the center of the island, to go experience some local culture and visit a Kitro distillery. After 40 minutes on the bus, we get dropped off in front of a church in the middle of Halki and find there are no indications for anything and no one around. We decide to walk down the main street, lined with about 10 buildings, but after a few minutes end up in the middle of a farm. After walking in circles for about 30 minutes we run into a man and he tells us the town is behind the buildings on the main street. We felt a little stupid!

Halki, once you find it, is small but has a surprising life to it. There are plenty of artcraft shops, a nice little plaza with tables and a small restaurant where we had lunch, and of course the Kitro distillery.

Prokopios beach

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Kitro is a tasty alcohol made with the leaves of the Kitron tree. Although the Kitron also produces a fruit that looks like a giant lemon, it is too sour and produces too little juice to be of much use, and only it's thick skin is used to make marmalades. The leaves of the tree are very aromatic and once boiled and distilled with a neutral alcohol create a smooth, strong, tasty drink called Kitro. It comes in three strengths: 30% (green), 35% (orange) and 40% (clear) alcohol per volume. The strongest is kept clear but coloring agents are added to the lower strengths to distinguish them. At one time Naxos was covered in Kitron trees, but as their usefulness was limited they were replaced by more profitable crops. Today only a small number remain, limiting the production of Kitro to 20,000 liters per year. This alcohol is so rare, it is not exported off the island...not even to the rest of Greece.

Sunset from Hotel Grotta with view of the Portara

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We arrived in Naxos not really knowing what to expect, but found it a perfect place to rest between the physically tiring Santorini and the lively nightlife of Mykonos. And although Naxos is quiet and peaceful, it is ripe with culture, beauty, great beaches and history.