Following these suggestions, you have now visited the primary must-see sights. On this third day, it's time to slack off a bit, combining a morning of re-created history with idylls in the park and a ride on the St. Lawrence -- tranquil or thrilling, your choice. Start: Take the Métro to the Parc Jean-Drapeau stop. Follow the signs to the Vieux Fort and Musée David M. Stewart, about a 15-minute walk.

1. Île Ste-Hélène

The island in the middle of the St. Lawrence was doubled in size with landfill for the 1967 Expo World's Fair to allow for the construction of national pavilions. A facility that dated from long before that event was the moated fortress ordered built by the Duke of Wellington and completed in 1824. It is now the Musée David M. Stewart, the original low stone barracks of the fort now housing a museum of military history from then until when the British left in 1840. There are parades and simulated military ceremonies from late June to late August. While the island is pleasant for strolling, with its views of the downtown skyline, there's no compelling reason to stay much longer.

Take the Métro to place d'Armes and walk down to the Vieux-Port.

2. Vieux-Port

A grey, ragged industrial/commercial harbor less than 20 years ago, the Old Port at the edge of Vieux-Montréal was transformed into a broad linear park with frequent live concerts, abundant recreational activities, and several attractions of note. Principal among these is Le Centre des Sciences, King Edward Pier, which contains a popular IMAX cinema in addition to room after room of computer-driven interactive displays sure to enthrall your inner geek. At the east end of the park, near the old clock tower, is the departure point for Saute Moutons (tel. 514/284-9607). The company entices adventurous spirits with special flat-bottomed boats that travel upriver in wet and wild challenges to the roiling Lachine Rapids. As well, there are several companies that provide more sedate river cruises. And that's not all: Several agencies in or bordering the park rent bicycles and in-line skates by the hour or day.

3. Le Jardin Nelson

As you will already have noticed, Vieux-Montréal harbors a considerable number of eating places catering to most tastes and wallets. One of the most visible and popular is Le Jardin Nelson. Head for the garden in back if the weather is right, for on many days there are live musical performances at lunch hour. The menu has something for everyone, from soups, sandwiches, and pizzas to a delectable roster of stuffed main-course and dessert crepes. 407 place Jacques-Cartier. tel. 514/861-5731.

4. Mont-Royal

Montrealers choose to think of the hill that rises behind the spires of downtown office towers as "The Mountain" that gave the city its name, "Mont-Real." The rounded crest of the hill was made into a public park according to plans by Frederick Law Olmsted, the designer of New York's Central Park. It draws throngs of citizens to its nearly 200 hectares (500 acres) of rolling lawns and meadows throughout the year. Join them with a hike up from the Peel Métro station (if you're in reasonably good shape) or take a taxi up to Lac des Castors (Beaver Lake).

In winter, horse-drawn calèches switch wheels for runners to tour the snow-covered top. A slope above the lake allows for some gentle skiing. If you've rented bikes or skates, you'll find miles of paved trails to work out the kinks. However athletic or sedentary your appreciation of the terrain, by all means make your way to the southern edge of the mountain as dusk approaches. (Head in the general direction of the giant illuminated steel cross, erected in homage to a wooden one placed there by the founders of the city in 1642.) A building called Chalet Lookout backs a plaza that overlooks the city and the river -- an unforgettable panorama. Take in the view; it's a fine way to end your stay in the Queen City of Québec.