NIAMH AND CATHAL'S TRAVEL BLOG
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Portrait

We´re both Irish and met in university in Dublin. We have been together for 13 years.

We lived in London for 11 years and were saving up for a house deposit but one wine fuelled night we decided to give it all up and go travelling.

We bought an EasyJet ticket to Tallinn and armed with a list of places we´d like to see, we headed off.

We´ve been on the road now for 17 months and our trip ends in September 2007.

Niamh and Cathal's Travel Blogs and Reviews
Travel Blogs and Reviews  
Title and Date Location  
itinerary
The World
journal-entry
Leaving party - London Jan 19 '06 
London, England
journal-entry
Farewell to Ireland Jan 25 '06 
Dublin, Ireland
journal-entry
Slippin' and slidin' in Tallinn Jan 31 '06 
"yes he finally admitted that his wasn't big enough."
Tallinn, Estonia
hotel-review
Old House
"Very friendly hostel and quite central"
Tallinn, Estonia
journal-entry
Piste again Feb 03 '06 
"It was a scenic journey across a landscape completely covered with snow"
Kuutsemae, Estonia
journal-entry
Tartu - City of Good Thoughts Feb 08 '06 
"I love the bollards!"
Tartu, Estonia
journal-entry
From Russia with Love Feb 14 '06 
Saint Petersburg, Russia
hotel-review
Nord Hostel
"Lots of nice people, great location and helpful staff"
Saint Petersburg, Russia
journal-entry
Seven days in Moscow Feb 21 '06 
"Think of a word beginning with Propa and you get the picture..."
Moscow, Russia
hotel-review
Sweet Moscow Hostel
"Very well located (once you've found it!)"
Moscow, Russia
journal-entry
The Trans Siberian and beyond... Feb 27 '06 
"It’s a long way from Gunnersbury station on a Monday morning, that’s for sure"
Irkutsk, Russia
review
Baikal Dog Sledding
"Dog sledding. Does what it says on the tin."
Irkutsk, Russia
hotel-review
Baikaler Hostel
"It's Jack Sherematoff's apartment and feels like home from home. There's even a cat called Fyodor!"
Irkutsk, Russia
journal-entry
Going to the dogs Mar 03 '06 
"Minutes later I was holding on for dear life"
Listvyanka, Irkutsk
journal-entry
The Largest Freshwater Lake in the world Mar 04 '06 
"It was truly weird to be walking on water - literally."
Olkhon Island, Russia
hotel-review
Olga and Kolya's house
"A homestay with a fisherman's family"
Olkhon Island, Russia
journal-entry
Paris of Siberia Mar 08 '06 
"Our last job in Russia was to get some Guinness"
Irkutsk, Russia
journal-entry
The TransMongolian to Ulaan Bataar Mar 11 '06 
"Although others have told us they hated Ulan Bataar, we've enjoyed it"
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
hotel-review
UB Guesthouse
"A comfortable guesthouse, run by a wonderful couple."
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
journal-entry
Flaming Cliffs and Flaming Flat Tyres Mar 15 '06 
"Nomads have a habit of moving on, and we had no means of telling them we were coming."
Gobi, Omnogovi
journal-entry
Back to Ulan Bataar Mar 20 '06 
"Nothing to see here - please see Trans Mongolian entry"
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
journal-entry
Hiking and dust storms Mar 23 '06 
"One of the gers collapsed"
Gorkhi-Terelj, Tov
journal-entry
Kharkhorin and Kids Mar 25 '06 
"a musical instrument made out of a human thigh bone"
Ikh-Tamire, Arhangay
journal-entry
Beijing Bound Apr 02 '06 
"just 272 kms before Beijing we got our first glimpse of the Great Wall"
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
journal-entry
Being in Beijing Apr 03 '06 
"a vast array of stuff including snakes, scorpions, locusts, crickets, cocoons, baby octopus and spiders - all beautifully arranged on sticks. Yum."
Beijing, China
hotel-review
Red House Hostel
"A hostel in a Hutong, really pretty."
Beijing, China
journal-entry
Up the wall Apr 07 '06 
"Somehow the wall fits very well with the scenery, perhaps because of the way it hugs the contours of the mountains so closely."
Silk Road, China
journal-entry
The Cloud Ridge Caves & The Hanging Monastery Apr 11 '06 
"40,000 workers laboured for 64 years, hollowing out first a 'skylight' to provide light to work with,"
Datong, Shanxi
journal-entry
Pootling around Pingyao Apr 12 '06 
"All in all Pingyao is a relaxed pretty little town."
Pingyao, Shanxi
hotel-review
Pingyao Harmony Backpacker Guesthouse
"Lovely room, run by a very friendly and helpful couple. Endless jasmine tea and sunflower seeds!"
Pingyao, Shanxi
journal-entry
Templemental Apr 16 '06 
Pingyao, Shanxi
journal-entry
Xciting Xi'an Apr 19 '06 
"I don't think I've mentioned the staring."
Xi'an, China
journal-entry
Pandamonium in Chengdu Apr 24 '06 
"essentially pandas sleep most of the time"
Chengdu, China
journal-entry
Kicking back in Kangding Apr 26 '06 
"street food that looked like some kind of roasted rodent head"
Kangding, Sichuan
journal-entry
Yaktown Apr 28 '06 
"The town itself is like something out of a cowboy movie"
Litang, Sichuan
journal-entry
Stopover in Xiangcheng Apr 30 '06 
"Each utterance set them off into fits of giggles"
Xiangcheng, Sichuan
journal-entry
Golden week in Shangri-La May 01 '06 
"It's full of winding alleys with wooden buildings piled higgledy-piggeldy along the cobbled streets"
Shangri-La (Zhongdian), Yunnan
journal-entry
Tiger Leaping Gorge May 05 '06 
"Cathal fell backwards, luckily towards the mountain not the other direction"
Qiaotou, Yunnan
journal-entry
Kunming to Kaili May 09 '06 
"We passed verdant hills, set against a steely grey sky with paddy fields cut into hillsides being ploughed by water buffalo."
Kaili, Guizhou
journal-entry
Minority Villages of South Eastern Guizhou May 11 '06 
"I spent the rest of the journey, completely missing the spectacular scenery Cathal was enjoying, mostly cause I had my head in a plastic bag"
Rongjiang, Guizhou
journal-entry
Visiting villages May 14 '06 
"Imagine a wooden village built along a river, the streets are paved with smooth pebbles arranged in patterns"
Zhaoxing, Guizhou
journal-entry
Relaxing in Yangshuo May 15 '06 
"After three bus rides, 11 sweaty hours in total, we arrived in Yangshuo at 10pm."
Yangshuo, China
journal-entry
Going Gung Ho in Guangzhou May 21 '06 
"Guangzhou is an interesting place and very famous for all the wrong reasons"
Guangzhou, China
journal-entry
When I was in 'Nam, dude... May 25 '06 
"The notes are not fake, are you sure you wouldn't like to change a little more?"
Hanoi, Vietnam
restaurant-review
Ladybird Restaurant
"Very reasonably priced restaurant in Hanoi with English menu and Vietnamese Food."
Hanoi, Vietnam
review
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
"Excellent museum for an overview of the peoples of Vietnam"
Hanoi, Vietnam
journal-entry
Our Junket May 27 '06 
"spent an funny hour arguing over who it was that was making the kayak go in circles"
Halong Bay, Vietnam
journal-entry
Ninh Binh and National Park Jun 01 '06 
"It turned out the poor lad had been bitten where no man should be bitten"
Ninh Binh, Vietnam
journal-entry
Hopping around Hue Jun 08 '06 
"we decided to take a trip around the de-militarized zone in Northen Vietnam"
Hue, Vietnam
journal-entry
Hot in Hoi An Jun 10 '06 
"The box contained a momento and a biography of the deceased"
Hoi An, Vietnam
hotel-review
Hai Au
"Excellent hotel - with swimming pool!"
Hoi An, Vietnam
journal-entry
Coffee fiend in BMT. Jun 15 '06 
"The villagers live very simply, two families to one wooden long house"
Buon Ma Thuot, Dac Lac
review
Motorbike guide
"Nguyen Hu Tam - Tel: 0913 421 053"
Buon Ma Thuot, Dac Lac
journal-entry
Mekong Delta - Mytho and Cantho Jun 18 '06 
"So we slurped happily amidst the oil spills, diesel fumes and mangy dogs"
My Tho, Tien Giang
journal-entry
Chau Doc to Cambodia Jun 21 '06 
""Very Harry Potter" muttered Niamh"
Chau Doc, Vietnam
journal-entry
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
review
Excellent driver!
"Jack's the man"
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
journal-entry
Kramped in Kampot Jun 28 '06 
"This lady was small but she could pack a punch"
Kampot, Cambodia
hotel-review
Blissful Guesthouse
"Lovely chilled out place. Lots of advice and great food."
Kampot, Cambodia
restaurant-review
Epic Arts Cafe
"Lovely chillout cafe - eat cake whilst your money goes to a good cause!"
Kampot, Cambodia
hotel-review
River View
"They're horrible - don't stay here"
Kampot, Cambodia
journal-entry
Bumming around Battambang Jul 02 '06 
"We very nearly didn't arrive in Battambang at all"
Battambang, Cambodia
restaurant-review
Smokin' Pot
"Family run place with good food and mini staff!"
Battambang, Cambodia
journal-entry
Touristy Siem Reap Jul 05 '06 
"for the last 40 years or so this little town has been booming with the sound of tourist cash"
Siem Reap, Cambodia
journal-entry
Tempting Temples Jul 07 '06 
"massive ficus and cottonwood trees snaking their roots amongst the masonry"
Angkor, Cambodia
journal-entry
Border town - Laos bound Jul 16 '06 
"There's no real reason to go there other than to get out of Cambodia"
Stoeng Treng, Cambodia
journal-entry
Thousand Island Resting Jul 17 '06 
"Nearly everyone we passed called out "Sabidye" or hello to us"
Don Khon, Laos
hotel-review
Sala Done Khong
"Excellent room, beautiful island, ultimate relaxation"
Don Khon, Laos
journal-entry
Chilling in Champasak Jul 20 '06 
"Champasak is a charming little town, very pretty with some old colonial buildings, wooden shops, a few guesthouses and that's about it."
Champasak, Laos
journal-entry
Bolevan Plateau and Pakse Jul 20 '06 
"I reckoned they must put the bodies in sideways!"
Pakse, Champasak
journal-entry
Genteel Vientiane Jul 25 '06 
"he took pains to tell us the bikes were not Chinese made"
Vientiane, Laos
journal-entry
Lovely Luang Prabang Jul 28 '06 
"it's absolutely one of the most beautiful towns I've ever been in"
Luang Prabang, Laos
journal-entry
A few jars in Phonsavan Aug 01 '06 
"The air is very clear and the fields are incredibly green"
Phonsavan, Xiangkhoang
journal-entry
Caves and Children Aug 03 '06 
"very interesting seeing the living quarters within the caves"
Sam Neua, Houaphan
journal-entry
Back to Luang Prabang Aug 06 '06 
"It's very beautiful to see the monks in their orange coloured robes wending their way down the street in the dawn light."
Luang Prabang, Laos
journal-entry
Quick stop in Luang Nam Tha Aug 11 '06 
"Once again we were amazed by how calm the Lao people are"
Luang Namtha, Laos
journal-entry
Mud, mud and some more mud! Aug 12 '06 
"At points we were pushing the bus, pulling the bus and a bulldozer had to get it out of mud"
Huay Xai, Laos
journal-entry
Hello, Land of Smiles! Aug 14 '06 
"Cathal gunned the engine and nothing happened"
Chiang Mai, Thailand
journal-entry
Squeezing in Sukhothai Aug 20 '06 
Sukhothai City, Sukhothai Kingdom
journal-entry
Bustling Bangkok Aug 22 '06 
Bangkok, Thailand
journal-entry
Ko Tao - Dive, dive, dive! Sep 05 '06 
"saw loads of fish - barracudas, a moray eel, parrotfish, rabbit fish, anemonefish"
Ko Tao, Thailand
review
SSI Open Water at Scuba Junction
"Fantastic, really professional shop, excellent instructors."
Ko Tao, Thailand
journal-entry
George Town, Penang
journal-entry
Kuala Lumpur Sep 24 '06 
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
review
Petronas Towers
"Great view and amazing buildings - and it's free!"
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
journal-entry
Cat city, Borneo Sep 26 '06 
"The little one acted just like a naughty little boy"
Kuching, Malaysia
review
Semenggoh National Park
"Very good value for money, great way to see orangutans."
Kuching, Malaysia
hotel-review
Carpenter Guesthouse
"Very knowledgable staff and good location"
Kuching, Malaysia
journal-entry
Kota Bharu, Malaysia
journal-entry
Kuala Lipis, Pahang
journal-entry
Singapore shopping spree Oct 07 '06 
"The place was full of tourists munching on peanuts and chucking the shells on the floor (very feeding time at the zoo)."
Singapore
journal-entry
Friends in Welly Oct 10 '06 
"At the weekend we went for a walk along the coastline to the red rocks, seeing some seals and spectacular views."
Wellington, New Zealand
review
Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa
"Brilliant museum - and it's free!"
Wellington, New Zealand
journal-entry
Picturesque Picton Oct 17 '06 
"We could see a lot of excited doggies jumping up on jetties in the distance!"
Picton, New Zealand
hotel-review
Sequoia Lodge & Backpackers
"Free breakfast - homebaked bread, yum!"
Picton, New Zealand
journal-entry
A Whale of a Time! Oct 20 '06 
"We saw three sperm whales, it was really awesome. They are very beautiful creatures."
Kaikoura, New Zealand
journal-entry
Christchurch Oct 20 '06 
"However I've never seen a city quite so bereft of people"
Christchurch, New Zealand
hotel-review
The Old Countryhouse
"Gorgeous hostel, complete with herb garden and lemon trees"
Christchurch, New Zealand
journal-entry
Along the West Coast Oct 23 '06 
"We found out too that Dunedin has the World's Steepest Street - Baldwin Street."
Dunedin, New Zealand
journal-entry
Te Anau and around Oct 24 '06 
"It's really magical to float along on a boat, seeing the tiny lights, much like looking at the night sky"
Te Anau, New Zealand
review
Waitomo Caves
"Lovely caves and see glow worms lighting it up"
Waitomo Caves, New Zealand
journal-entry
Majestic Milford Sound to Arrowtown Oct 26 '06 
"The scenery at Milford Sound is beyond compare"
Milford Sound, New Zealand
journal-entry
Wonderful Wanaka Oct 28 '06 
Wanaka, New Zealand
journal-entry
Fantastic Fox Oct 30 '06 
"It's hard to describe what it was like on the glacier, but we'll never forget it."
Fox Glacier, New Zealand
journal-entry
Pancake rocks and mountain passes Oct 31 '06 
"Every so often there'd be a whoosh of seawater as it found a blowhole and came rushing up through the rocks"
Punakaiki, New Zealand
journal-entry
Back to Welly Nov 02 '06 
Wellington, New Zealand
journal-entry
Art Deco Napier Nov 06 '06 
Napier, New Zealand
journal-entry
Taupo, New Zealand
journal-entry
Johannesburg Nov 10 '06 
Johannesburg, South Africa
journal-entry
Blooming giraffes! Nov 13 '06 
"First up we saw a family of giraffes, about 10 metres away, just along the grass, no fence no nothing."
Bloemfontein, Free State
hotel-review
Naval Hill Backpackers
"Really funky backpackers, don't make too much noise, everyone can hear you!"
Bloemfontein, Free State
journal-entry
The Mountain Kingdom Nov 15 '06 
Semonkong, Lesotho
hotel-review
Semonkong Lodge
"Lovely (only!) place to stay. Good food, gorgeous location."
Semonkong, Lesotho
journal-entry
Pretty Clarens Nov 21 '06 
Clarens, Free State
journal-entry
Dropping by Durban Nov 22 '06 
"Derek found us wandering with our bags back to the town centre and we piled in his car"
Durban, South Africa
journal-entry
Quick stop - Port St Johns Nov 24 '06 
"The isolated feeling of the area is rather at odds with the concentration of backpackers in the area."
Port St Johns, Eastern Cape
journal-entry
Another Port Nov 25 '06 
"That was it, we drove back on a rescue mission"
Port Elizabeth, South Africa
journal-entry
Tip of Africa, route 62 and whales Nov 26 '06 
"Cape Agulhas - the southernmost tip of Africa"
Hermanus, Western Cape
hotel-review
Santos Express
"Very interesting place to stay, but maybe just for one night."
Hermanus, Western Cape
journal-entry
Top Table Nov 28 '06 
Cape Town, South Africa
journal-entry
One of Niamh's dreams come true Nov 29 '06 
"It just so happens that cheetahs are Niamh's favourite animal in the whole world."
Stellenbosch, South Africa
journal-entry
Big Hole Dec 01 '06 
"You crawl along for a while noting the complete absence of any actual work on these roadworks"
Kimberley, Northern Cape
hotel-review
Greatbatch Guesthouse
"Beautifully restored house with very informative hostess"
Kimberley, Northern Cape
journal-entry
Whistlestop Johannesburg Dec 02 '06 
"We got lost in the unbeliveably badly signposted city"
Johannesburg, South Africa
journal-entry
We're in Windhoek Dec 02 '06 
"Later we explored the city on foot. It really didn't take long."
Windhoek, Namibia
journal-entry
Sandy Sossusvlei Dec 04 '06 
"we turned round and were met with an amazing view - one I'll never forget"
Sossusvlei, Namibia
journal-entry
Salty flamingoes Dec 06 '06 
"The tide was very far out, as were the flamingoes."
Walvis Bay, Namibia
journal-entry
Sunny Swakopmund Dec 06 '06 
Swakopmund, Namibia
journal-entry
Back to Windhoek Dec 07 '06 
Windhoek, Namibia
journal-entry
Game driving in Etosha Dec 08 '06 
"Drinking from a pool of water on the road ahead was an enormous White Rhino."
Etosha National Park, Namibia
review
Chameleon Safaris
"Brilliant company and small groups - Max 8!"
Etosha National Park, Namibia
journal-entry
Dancing Bushmen! Dec 10 '06 
Tsumeb, Oshikoto
journal-entry
Okavango and Makoros Dec 12 '06 
"there was the plop sound of the pole as the poler punted the canoe forward,"
Okavango Delta, Botswana
journal-entry
Captivating Caprivi Dec 14 '06 
"We saw a huge python and a carcass a leopard had hung in a tree (ugh)"
Caprivi, Namibia
journal-entry
Water, water everywhere! Dec 16 '06 
Livingstone, Zambia
journal-entry
Off-road to Mongu Dec 27 '06 
"Well, really officer, I had no idea."
Mongu, Western
journal-entry
Back in the land of the Livingstone Dec 30 '06 
"It was crazy being on the edge of the falls though, such a rush"
Livingstone, Zambia
journal-entry
Luckless in Lusaka Jan 05 '07 
"If there's one thing we've learned whilst travelling it's that nothing is impossible"
Lusaka, Zambia
journal-entry
Volunteering at Tikondane Jan 09 '07 
"We were woken each morning to the sound of 312 children"
Katete, Eastern
hotel-review
Tikondane Guest House
"By staying here you help support vital community development work!"
Katete, Eastern
journal-entry
3rd time Lucky in Lusaka Feb 11 '07 
Lusaka, Zambia
journal-entry
London, England
journal-entry
Addis at last Feb 15 '07 
"Goats and donkeys everywhere!"
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
journal-entry
Debre Mark'os, Ethiopia
journal-entry
Lake Tana monasteries Feb 20 '07 
Bahar Dar, Ethiopia
journal-entry
Castles and churches in Gonder Feb 22 '07 
"In Gonder the kids spat, threw stones and practically chased tourists down the street. Not great."
Gonder, Ethiopia
journal-entry
Through the mountains to Shire Feb 24 '07 
"Maybe not that many tourists take the bus, maybe they just like staring. Not sure which."
Shire, Ethiopia
journal-entry
The Stelae of Axum Feb 25 '07 
Axum, Ethiopia
journal-entry
The Rock-Hewn churches of Lalibela Feb 28 '07 
"The churches are a little difficult to describe, since they don't resemble anything that I've ever seen before."
Lalibela, Ethiopia
journal-entry
Back to Addis Mar 02 '07 
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
journal-entry
East to Harar Mar 06 '07 
"Harar is a truly worthwhile place to visit"
Harar, Ethiopia
journal-entry
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
journal-entry
Good old London Mar 11 '07 
London, England
journal-entry
A family visit Mar 14 '07 
"'You'll be the two that are travelling the world', said the car hire man."
Cork, Ireland
journal-entry
Quick stop in the city where we met! Apr 11 '07 
"That's about 5,000 years old (no not how long we've been together, sometimes it does feel like it though!)"
Dublin, Ireland
journal-entry
Work? I think I remember! Apr 15 '07 
"I remembered how to do my job (barely) and we drank far too much"
London, England
journal-entry
We're really in Rio!!! Jun 04 '07 
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
journal-entry
What a lotta water Jun 09 '07 
Foz do Iguacu, Brazil
journal-entry
Bussed it to BA Jun 12 '07 
"Sunday dawned cool and sunny, so we headed out to San Telmo where there´s an antique market"
Buenos Aires, Argentina
hotel-review
Hostel Estoril
"Great breakfast, friendly place."
Buenos Aires, Argentina
journal-entry
Right Place, Right Time for Southern Right Whales Jun 18 '07 
"not 500 metres out in the ocean was a pair of Right whales, spouting and splashing and generally doing whale-type things"
Puerto Madryn, Argentina
journal-entry
The Ice Age is coming!!! Jun 21 '07 
El Calafate, Argentina
hotel-review
America Del Sud
"Nice, if overheated hostel"
El Calafate, Argentina
journal-entry
Ushuaia, Argentina
journal-entry
What do we do now? Jun 27 '07 
"We´re definitely coming back!"
Puerto Natales, Chile
journal-entry
Santiago, Chile
journal-entry
Blockaded in La Paz Jul 02 '07 
"There are women in traditional dress wandering about with bundles on their backs, all kinds of street stalls and general bustle, roadworks and traffic madness."
La Paz, Bolivia
review
Coca Museum
"Interesting museum"
La Paz, Bolivia
hotel-review
Arthys Guesthouse
"Friendly family run place"
La Paz, Bolivia
journal-entry
Pottering around Potosi Jul 07 '07 
""Are we insured for this", I wondered?"
Potosi, Bolivia
journal-entry
Uyuni, Bolivia
review
Salar tour
"Sumaj Jallpha or Wonderful Land agency"
Uyuni, Bolivia
journal-entry
Partying in La Paz Jul 17 '07 
"The navy had plastic models of boats on their shoulders in the colours of the Bolivian flag and the airforce had planes of course"
La Paz, Bolivia
journal-entry
On the shores of Lake Titicaca! Jul 19 '07 
"It turned out there was yet another strike and there were problems at the border on both sides"
Copacabana, Bolivia
journal-entry
Couldn´t resist Cusco again Jul 21 '07 
"It was nice to be back 4 years later..."
Cusco, Peru
journal-entry
Choquequirao, Cusco
journal-entry
Happy Birthday, Niamhie! Jul 29 '07 
Cusco, Peru
journal-entry
La Libertad Jul 31 '07 
"Trujillo is a very well preserved colonial city, founded by the conquistadors."
Trujillo, La Libertad
journal-entry
Otavalo Markets Aug 09 '07 
"All of a sudden a young bull broke free of his owner, lowered his head and charged, straight for us."
Otavalo, Ecuador
journal-entry
Quito, Ecuador
journal-entry
Navel of the Earth Aug 13 '07 
"Rano Raraku which is littered by completed and half c