Free Tibet!

Tibetan prayer wheels and flags at the Dalai Lama's temple

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We approached Dharamsala on our first Indian public bus.  We had our doubts, but we were pleasantly surprised with assigned seats and plenty of toilet breaks!  As we approached the rolling foothills of the Himalayas, black clouds brought our first taste of cold and rain, something we haven't felt for months!  The quickly passing storm gave way to a beautiful sunset reflected off the fresh snow-topped front range of the Himalayas; absolutely  breathtaking (both the view and the gravel mountain road we were cruising at maximum speed).  Only one mild setback when the bus overheated for our Evil Kneivel driver.  We made the final approach to McLeod Ganj at  nightfall; all we could sense was that the road was easily 45 degrees upward.  Our first few days were picturesque; the beautiful mountains provided both awesome sunrises and sunsets admired from our balcony above the valley.  We eased into the laid back, and compassionate atmosphere of the Tibetan Buddhists who have found refuge here.  This offered us a unique taste of Tibetan culture and food.  The Tibetan government-in-exile, the Buddhist monks, and protestors were in full force; all opposed to Beijing hosting the 2008 Olympics and utilizing the media as a way to demonstrate global awareness of their extended struggle with China.  The evening candlelight vigil, prayer, and march around the town grew in participants each night we were there.  We showed our support by carrying a candle for the cause.  We continued our search and education regarding Tibetan culture, which led us to Dalai Lama's home, the Temple, and the Norbulingka Institute.  The Institute was established for the new generation of Tibetan refugees to learn and maintain old Tibetan traditions and culture.  We were so excited to watch as actual Tibetan thangka artists created masterpieces.  Sam found inspiration from one "frank" artist at Norbulingka (and a little push from Steph), to sign up for a thangka painting class.  After he started, Steph wondered when she would have her hubby back to explore the mountainside with her.  With only 3 days until Sam's birthday, he had to work extra hard in class so he could play hard for his 30th!  The weather was cold and rainy for 4 days, perfect for staying inside to focus on art.  After 5 classes, he finally completed his own "masterpiece", and we could finally hit the hillsides.  We celebrated Sam's special day by hiking up to a crystal clear waterfall, laden with ice cold pools, in which the locals were swimming.  We trekked up the canyon as high as the mountain goats, what a view!  Feeling the altitude (or maybe it's age ;), we headed back through the hoardes of attack monkeys for a long awaited sunset over the valley.   We sat on our balcony while enjoying chicken wings (or parts) and cold beers.  What a day!  It ended with Steph and some restaurant employees singing "Happy Birthday" to Sam as we surprised him with a "Hammy Birthday, Sam" cake (the bakery misspelled it).   It was hilarious :)