The Kingdom of Swaziland

Jabulane and Wendy

View more photos 

We LOVE Swaziland!!  If we didn't have our hearts set on seeing other places we would have definitely extended our stay here.

Tovah and I (Wendy) were picked up where the Baz Bus dropped us off by Moimoi and Simon and taken to Sondzela Backpackers.  The hostel is actually located in a game park- Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, but since it was dark, we didn't see how incredible it was until the following morning.  We spent the evening playing pool and having a few beers with the guys that work there (Moimoi, Jabulane, and Vellie). 

When we walked out of our room the next morning we couldn't believe what we were looking at!  From our room we looked out at the mountains and valleys of the wildlife sanctuary with its many beautiful colors from the plants and animals that inhabit it.  We decided to do our own hike through the game park but found we did not completely think it through.  We began around 10:30 am armed with our camaras, suntan lotion, and 2 bottles of water each (which we really underestimated)!  We took our time and stopped often to take pictures, and soon the sun was out in full force.  Before we knew it we began crossing paths with animals.  First impalas, then blue wildebeest who were just a few feet from us.  Tovah and I got frightened by a warthog that began walking towards us on the path and almost turned back, but luckily continued on (we later found out that warthogs are only aggressive if they feel their babies are threatened).  We stopped a few times to reapply sunscreen as our Malaria pills make us more sensitive to the sun, but our water supply began to run low so we wanted to keep moving.  It was a pretty challanging hike, especially cause we were both a little out of shape (we need the practice if we want to make it up Kilimanjaro).  In the end we made it back to the main camp, but I have to admit, the dense vegetaion surrounding the path was a bit unnerving...you never know what could be hiding within!  When we got back to our hostel we were absolutely beat, but were told that Jabulane was looking for us as we said we had wanted to take a trip to the local orphanage the night before and made a tentative time.  He had told them we were coming so there was no way we make it the next day instead. 

View from our room!

View more photos 

So....we jumped in the pool to cool off and then walked to meet Jabulane at the parks gate (I knew we were tired and/or out of shape, when these guys carrying trees behind us began to pass us by).  Jabulane wrapped a sarong with the King's picture on it around our waists and we were on our way.  The King, by the way, has 15 wives and gets a new one every year... When we entered the homestead the kids began running up to us and just staring at us.  They were so cute and welcoming.  They lined up and we walked through the line shaking each childs hand in the traditional handshake and reapeated with each hand we shook, "Yebo Gosi.  Unjani? Ngiyaphila."  Which is: "Hello.  How are you?  I am fine."   Tovah and I were then asked to sit as Mama, the lady who ran the orphanage, began speaking in Saswati and Jabulane translated for us.  Our time there was spent learning words of things in Saswati as well as songs, and trying to engage in their daily activities (i.e. walking with a basket on our heads which didn't go so well and got lots of laughs out of the children, braiding hay to tie onto the fense to keep it together, grinding maiz for their food/beer that they had us sample, laying down in the bed they sleep in which is the floor with a wooden board with hide over it as a pillow and animal skin as a blanket, and participating in their traditional reed dance and song).  In the end we were able to buy crafts that the children had made and donated some money.  These kids were so cute and full of life and don't have very much at all.  Many of them had parents that died of Aids or other diseases for which many of these children probably have but they don't have the money to be tested to know for sure.  Tovah and I were really touched by these children and want to help where we can.  We were told they need shoes, clothes, blankets, toiletries (such as vasoline).  If anyone reading this blog entry wants to help, please let us know.  Instead of throwing out old clothes/shoes, Tovah and I would love to send it there or would be happy to give you the address where you can send it to.  We also plan on knitting blankets throughout our 42 day tour when we are on the road so that we can send blankets.  I know many of you must be thinking that there is no way either of us knows how to knit, and you're right.  However, someone taught us the basic stitches and we will use trial and error from there...keep your fingers crossed. 

Wendy on the hike through Miliwane

View more photos 

Back at the hostel we had a massive meal for only R25 which is about $3.50 (they even offer a vegetarian option), and then helped Moimoi study for his drivers test by testing him on the various road signs he needed to know before going to bed.  He passed and told the police man that 2 Americans had helped him and that we were the reason he passed.

The next morning we got up early to go to the craft market and learned that Tovah and I are not good at bargaining- we are such pushovers!  We had to catch the local transportation back which consists of minibuses/taxis.  It looks very chaotic, but it works!  After switching minibuses and getting of at the last stop before the hostel, we had about a 2 k walk back past pinapple fields and other beautiful scenery.  That night we also watched a traditional Swazi dance which Jabulane was part of.  Then back to the hostel for one last night of pool with the boys. 

Wendy sleeping on a traditional Swazi bed at the Orphanage

View more photos 

It was very sad saying goodbye to them!  Swaziland is a beautiful place filled with beautiful people.  We felt very safe there and very welcomed.  We wish everyone could experience this lovely place!