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We were scared to fly to Laos!  We had been warned by the (old) Lonely Planet and the Canadian government website that Lao Airlines isn't up to safety standards but it was the only/fastest way to get to Luang Prabang from Chiang Mai.  (We later found out that they have no radar equipment but instead rely on sight.  Thank goodness there was no fog/mist/thunderstorm).   In the end, we arrived alive after a bumpy but OK flight.

Luang Prabang is gorgeous!  There are green hills everywhere and the city sits on the banks of the Mekong and Nam Kam Rivers.  There are numerous Wats and the architecture was heavily influenced by the French.  The people are beautiful, many wearing traditional Laos clothing as well as orange-robed monks everywhere.

Most of our time in Laos was spent eating or window shopping.  The textiles and souvenirs were among the best we had seen anywhere in Asia.  Many stores were dedicated to sustainable and locally grown/made goods. 

On our second day in LP we were fortunate enough to witness a funeral procession for a famous monk.  The streets were filled with hundreds of monks followed by hundreds of lay people paying their respects.  It was an incredible sight to watch as they processed though the town to the Wat where the funeral service was held.

Our second to last night was spent at the Elephant Lodge.  It is a resort but also an elephant rescue center.  We woke early in the morning, took a boat up the river and helped bathe the elephants.  We climbed up on their backs and scrubbed them clean (And no, they did not spray us with water from their trunks).  Afterwards, we were allowed to feed the elephants.  They were so gentle and personable, each having it's own preferred feeding method.  Some liked to take the food in their trunks while others made you place it right in their mouth.  I loved it so much I am considering a career as a mahout!

The morning of our last day I got up early to see the giving of the alms.  This is how monks get their food as well as how lay-Buddhist gain merit for their afterlife.  The people give the monk sustenance and in return the monk will pray for them. The monks are only allowed to eat whatever food they receive that morning.  I walked out of our hotel to find hundreds of people sitting on the curbside as if waiting for a parade.  Moments later, I saw a procession of monks passing by and receiving food from the townspeople.   It reminded me of trick or treating!  Some monks had young kids walking beside them helping to carry all the food they were given.  Unfortunately, there are scams related to the almsgiving.  Tourists who wish to participate are sometimes sold "poisoned" food from unscrupulous merchants which cause the monks to become ill.  In response to this, the monks have threatens to discontinue their morning rituals.  The government has forbidden it, as it is a HUGE ($$$) tourist draw.

We really loved Luang Prabang and were lucky to have visited when we did.  Although there were tons of tourists it still felt really authentic.  We're not sure how long this authenticity will last and are interested in revisiting in 10 years.  Hopefully it won't be overdeveloped.


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