Bus journeys

Our game of scrabble attracting the usual crowds whilst taking a break on a 24 hr bus journey from hell

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Having experienced a number of bus journeys in Ethiopia I think they should change the countries slogan from "13 months of sunshine" to "24hrs of staring". Having been sat on the bus for 24hrs with an overnight stop sandwiched in between I really wished I could have engaged the locals in some magic tricks like pulling a chicken from my rucksack or changing water water into wine. Sadly, all I did was spread honey on bread, stretch, yawn, play scrabble and try not to stare back. Nevertheless, they are still fascinated by us, I think if I believed in reincarnation I would come back as chameleon.

Having purchased our tickets the day before, the journeys always start with a 5am stumble to the bus station and a battle with the bus depot workers not to have to pay a tip for our bags to be placed on the roof of the bus. We generally win by stating that no one else has to pay so why should we. We then settle down in front of the billboard sized picture of Jesus and wait for the scramble for seats by the locals who are waiting at the locked gates chanting. In the meantime we are offered toilet tissue, roasted barley, chewing gum and Bin Laden wristwatches by the extras from Oliver Twist.

Finally 1hr and a half later the bus leaves at which time I am dribbling with tiredness. After numerous stops for passengers to barter for birds at the side of the road (feathered) which are then tethered to the roof of the bus, children to lay cables in the middle of the road and to randomly pick up extra passengers we arrive at a medium sized town for our overnight stop (halfway point).

Once again the gates are locked and guarded only this time to keep the locals out. At one place called Gaint or Injes Moja (Celtic translation Tenby) they were beaten back with sticks. This followed a pickpocket on the bus being taken behind a van and given summary justice. As we walked to our 1 pound a night accomodation care in the community was not in sight as the local loon was beaten with a stick. I felt like the warrior Max - "welcome to bartertown! - 2 men in 1 man out".

Fortunately tomorrow is only a 5 hour journey!