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“they didn't seem to mind who they let into their country, as long as they had $USD to spend.” |
21st Oct - Bolivia. Currency, Bolivianos ($1USD = 8 bv) not to be confused with the few Venezualan Bolivares I had left in my pocket from my brief stopover in Caracas.
We were less than an hour away from the Bolivian border, so a very relaxed morning walking about 3km from our hotel in Puno to where Tony had left the truck - a fair hike with a heavy backpack full of souvenirs. Lovely scenic drive along the edge of Lake Titicaca to the relaxed border crossing near Copacapana- getting out of Peru was much easier and less fantic than getting in. The Bolivian immigration was a piece of piss - they didn't seem to mind who they let into their country, as long as they had $USD to spend. Another hour along the plains towards La Paz where we stopped for our most scenic lunch stop yet (see photos) - and there had been some rippers. Could see form miles along the barren Altiplano towards the snow capped Andean mountains in the east. We had only driven an hour inside the Bolivian border, and already it seemed like world away form Peru. Such a culture change. Spectacular scenery, but the people of Bolivia spectacularly poor.
Bolivia takes the unwanted accolade of being the poorest nation in South America, and one of the poorest in the world. It has a high infant mortality rate, high birth rate, and low literacy rate. NINETY percent of Bolivians live below the world poverty line. Despite this Bolivia is suprisingly not in the list of the worlds poorest countries by GDP - infact, its not even in the bottom 50 - why? A large chunk of the economy is boosted by coco plant exports, which ultimately end up as cocaine.
We noticed the poverty as we made our way into La Paz - the first suburb, or satelite town you go through is El Alto, also home to their airport. Its a sprawling slum of a suburb on the crest of a canyon - and one of the poorest places I've seen - rivalling the slums of Nairobi. However once through El Alto, the road gave way to the unforgettable entrance to La Paz. The truck wound down the valley's edge with spectacular views of the city. La Paz is the world's highest capital city -sitting at 3700m in a long winding canyon at the bottom of the snow capped Illimani - the highest mountain in the area, a whopping 6400m. The city centre and high rises is at the bottom of the canyon, and its suburbs sprawl up the canyon's rim. Unfortunatly the main road down the canyon into La Paz is a two laned busy road with no alternative routes into the city - already the trafic was banked up behind our slow truck and we were getting beeped at - with nowhere to pull off and take photos, all of my shots of this spectacular sight were blurred messes.
We parked the truck in a carpark just north of the city - Diana was trying to orgaise cabs for us all down to the hotel, however a check of the map indicated it was walking distance - so we donned our packs and set off. The hotel was only 5 minutes away.
We dropped off our bags in the ordinary hotel (Hotel Continental) and wandered down to the main business district to change some TC's while it was still business hours. This was easier said than done. Most banks wouldn't change them without sigting the receipt. None of us had that - and had never been asked for it before. Eventually we found a place that would do it with no receipt - for about 10% less than the banks. Tonight was to be our last night with Doug and Carissa - two of my favourite people on the tour. They had limited time and were flying out of La Paz. So we had a meal with them then a party in Diane & Tony's rooms in the "penthouse" of the hotel. Messy evening.
22nd Oct. Free day to wander around La Paz. Like the gudebooks say, its impossible to get lost in La Paz. TBC
23rd Oct - Another free day in La Paz - robbed by a granny
24th Oct - Leaving La Paz - very very ill - self inflicted. Slept most of the very very lond drive down to Potosi. Got there just on sunset feeling rubbish.
previous travel blog entry
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