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We got the bullet train (or Shinkansen) from Toyko to Kyoto which impressively sped (25kmph)through the city and countryside in just two hours. Although we were a little disappointed by the interior which looked like a drab airplane interior.
Kyoto used to be the capital until the 19th Century and is jam packed with 100's of temples which makes the whole place a World Heritage sight. We only stayed two nights, in a surburb to the West called Uzamasa, in a lovely little hostel which was infact a family home with just three guest rooms. They were very friendly and it was a traditional building, lots of wood and sliding doors. We slept on a futon on tamati mats (v traditional). Staying there gave us a feel for what the real Japan outside of the city centres was like.
The minute we arrived it started raining so we didn't venture out until the evening to go to the bath house the family we stayed with had highly recommended. We weren't disappointed as it was fantastic. We couldn't go in together as it is completely seperate for men and women and a naked affair. It had several different temperature pools, and water jets and saunas, and part of the complex was outside so you could feel the rain on you as you soaked in the hot tub. We noticed some people had their feet in a pool with lots of fish in, and saw the fish up close to their feet and realised they must have been cleaner fish nibbling away dead skin! We passed on that one ourselves! These bath houses are an institution in Japan and ever popular for all ages. Brilliant value all for 4 pounds.
We spent one day taking in some of the temples, firstly to area to the West of the city close to where we were staying, called Arashiyama. From what we saw this this was our favourite historic area, very quiet and peaceful with a good mix of large grand temples and some smaller ones. It was really lovely to walk through the quant little streets and stumble upon the magnicent history. That contrasted to Higashiyama where it was very busy and touristy. One temple - Kiyomizodera -is currently mounting a bid to be included as one of the new Seven Wonder of the World.
We went to see the Nijo-Jo Castle once home of the Shoguns. It was especially interesting to see the interior as despite being old it appeared timeless because of its simple clean style (unfortunately no photography allowed). Not surprisingly the clever Japanese had built in a security measure with floorboards that intentionally squeak when walked on so nobody could sneak up unannounced on the Shogun.
That evening we went on a guided tour of the Geshia district with an insider (Peter from Canada) who has married a geshia and runs one of the local bars. It was interesting to see the teahouses and we caught sight of several Geshias, dressed up with painted white faces, going off to their first engagments of the evening.
previous travel blog entry
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