Mt. kilimanjaro Climb

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For anyone wanting to cut to the chase - We made the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro on March 3rd about 7am. IT WAS WONDERFUL.

For those wanting to know more details - stay tuned... Feb 21: We arrived from London via Amsterdam at 9:00pm into Kilimanjaro airport - half way between Arusha and Moshi. We were met by our driver - Charles, and taken to the Moivaro Coffee Plantation Lodge just outside of Arusha.- about a hour's drive.

Feb 22: We were picked up after lunch by drive and assistant guide - Kambona. Met Selina, from Virginia, one of our climbing group. She had just had a horrible flight from Nairobi and was enjoying having both legs on the ground. About 10 minutes out of Arusha, we turned onto the road to Oldonyorok (O-don-ya-rock) Lodge. This road was one continuous pot hole. I'm sure it eats tires and dislocates kidneys on a regular basis. The lodge lies on the eastern foot hills of Mount Meru, adjacent to Arusha National Park. It is at about 5,100 feet and about an hour from Arusha. The rest of our group arrived about midnight on the same flight we had taken the night before.

Feb 23: We woke up to a beautiful day - met the rest of the groupL Janet, from Idaho; Laurie and Dennis, from California; JD, from North Carolina; and Alex, our Tanzanian guide, from Arusha. Seems like a nice group. Mt. Kili's top showed itself briefly. We could see a good bit of the upper Shira Plateau, the area of our highest camp, and the sumit. It look like we will have a steep descent. After breakfast (fresh papaya, watermellon, banannas, scrambled eggs nd something in the sausage family), we got a briefing of the climb and check out our gear. We had a leisurely day watching giraffes, cape buffalo, etc. We were warned strongly not to walk beyond the wall - as cape buffalo were very smart and very mean. The giraffes would come up fairly close to the wall - they truely make you feel that yu are in Africa.

Feb 24: We got up around 6:30 and left by 8. We drove to the Londorossi gate, about a 3-hour drive, to sign in at the ranger station. It was another 45 minutes north to the Lemosho trail head. Our porters were waiting for us - 48 men including the cooks. Evidently porters get approximately $5-6/day. We started hiking around 11:45 at the 7,500 foot level. Hiked about an our to the 8,000' level and stopped for lunch. It was waiting when we arrived. It was set up on table and we had stools to sit on. Lots of fresh fruits and vegs. Pretty tough so far! We arrived at our 1st camp (Forrest Camp) around 3:15 @ 9,000 feet. We identified our packs and the porter who carried it came over and introduced himself. He would be carrying those bags for the entire trip. My porter was Gilbert and Sal was with Chas. Dinner was over by 6:30. We returned to our tents and pretended to be sleepy. This camp had 2 toilets (called 'Loos') The women's was a wooden outhouse. The men's was a 3-sided canvas structure about 4' tall with a toilet seat mounted on a stool perched over a hole. After 1 trip to the women's, we women declared the men's to be unisex. Our's was inhabited by bees!

Feb 25: Woke up about 6:30 with the cook crew bringing warm water for washing. We'd best enjoy this while it lasts because soon it will be too cold for such activities. Breakfast about 7:25 = scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, peanut butter and honey, and hot choc. We packed up and on our way by about 8:00. We saw blue monkeys in the distant trees. We reached the lunch spot about 11:30 - about 10 minutes after it started raining. However, the dining tent was set up and lunch was ready - something in the egg salad family = delicious. Elevation was about 10,000'. We had been going steadily up, stoppinf for breaks about every hour. The highest point reached before leveling off and going down was about 11,600'. We have left the foresst and are in heath up to 6-7 feet tall. A fire had come through about 2-3 years ago, but the understory was making a comeback. We are on the Shira Plateau. Got to the 2nd camp (Shira Plateau camp)around 3pm. Our tents were ready and bags inside. They had trenched around the tenst - which was a good thing because it was raining pretty good. It was still warm enough inside the tents for washing up (but just barely). Changed into warmer clothes and went for tea and popcorn. This is definately the most plush climb I have ever been on - I can definately get used to this. This was a good day - started wearing shorts and windpants (lots of stinging nettles while we were still in the forest), t-shirt, long-sleeved shirt and wind jacket. I love my new ear muffs - great against the wind - easy to take off when hot. Ended the day with my rain jacket on. Lots is being done to try to stay healthy. The cook crew wash all fruits and vegs with a solution (similiar to what we have @ home - can't think of the name). Our water is filtered. Since we can see little things like gravel in our water bottles, Sal and I drop a little iodine in just to make sure. I stopped using honey because it had lots ofdead bees included, so assumed it hadn't been processed. Sal and I are also avoiding dairy products for the same reason. We are really trying hard to stay healthy and enjoy the climb. Dinner always starts withsoup. Alex (guide) instruced us in proper way of eating soup. Hands on either side of bowl - no spoons. That way you can warm your hands as well. Dinner included: Lentil soup, and pancakes (sort of like swedish one), cooked carrots, marinated cucumbers, fish (perch), french fires, fried banannas and cream (skipped the cream). Pretty upscale!. We started taking Dimox(125mg) to hlep with altitude. Slept pretty well.

Feb 26: Woke up about 6:30. The mountain was out with someclouds on top and around the base. What a big mountain. ! Started hiking in long johns and shorts, t-shirt and wind jacket. The wind kicked up and I was glad I had gloves and earmuffs. I had a great day hiking - preferred to b e at the end of the pack - not because I amso slow, but like not having someone on my heels. We arrived in camp (Shira Plateau Camp #2 - renamed Fischer Camp in memory of Scott Fischer- one of the Americans killed on Everest in '96. It is at about 12, 800'. No sooner had we crawled into the tent than the heavens opened up and continued pouring most of the afternoon. Today is an auspicious day - it is the 1st anniversary of the last day of chemo. If the choise is between chemo and climbing - I choose climbing! I'm very excited about that andreally enjoyed the day. I found 2 envelopes in the bottomof my back from 2 people in the writing class. The one I opened today was from Ginny. She wrote a nice note and shared that she also is a breast cancer survivor. I read it out loud to Sal and left sortoflike I was in class. We both enjoyedit, but Sal didn'tclap when I was finished reading. The problemwith getting to high altitude is that you have to drink lots ofwater to stay hydrated. This means peeing also. Right not I am sitting in the tent pretending that my bladder is not about to burst waiting for a break in the weather. In the middleof the night, it is called the 'zipper symphony'. You unzip your tent to go pee. That siound triggers the bladderof the person in the next tent - who in turn unzips their tent, setting off the bladder of the next person. By the time it gets back to you - your bladder is ready for action. Exciting times here on the mountain. After dinner it stoppedraining briefly. We could see the full moon through breaks in the clouds.

Feb 27th. Neither of us slept well - we feel fine but have to work at wanting to eat. After breakfast we watched the fellows hook up the radio for the daily check-in with Arusha. It is powered by 2-12volt batteries hooked up to the radio by battery cables. The antenna was held at either end and middleby 3 guys. Our plan for the day was to have occassional breaks, but we instead went all the way to camp (Sheffield Camp @ 14,800') before stopping to try and beat the rain. I periodically have periods of 'pins and needles' in my hands and feet from the Dimox. Sal does also - but less so. About an hour fromcamp it started raining and hailing. Unfortunately Sal's jacket has lost its waterproofing. Not a good spot to realize it should have been replaced. After lunch, we head back to the tend because it is still pouring. Sal has taken an Excederin Migrane and is napping. I am trying to resist th4e urge to nape in hopes that I will sleepbetter at night. Last night I negotiated a trade with JD: The use of his reading book in excvhange for mine and a chocolate power bar. Just my luck - Tom Clancy! I'm not usre I can blame this on the altitude, but I thought the zipper onb my red vest was broken. The 2 sides wouldn't go together. After 5-10 minutes I realize I'mtrying to zip my red vesttomy red jacket! We borrowed boot waterproofing from Selina to try on Sal's jacket. Dennis's boot came apart at the seam, so we gavehim duct tape and super glue. Selina also gavemesomething in a tube called 'nose better' to help with my bloody noses that are probably caused by the dry air. I wascold at dinner so tomorrow night will break out the down clothes. Around 4am we heard a huge rock avalanche - glad we were out of harm's way!.

Feb 28: Acclimitization day. stayed at Sheffield camp. Woke up to sunshine and cold weather. Had breakfast outside - which, bundled up, was nice. Hiked up a ridge behind camp as part of the acclimatization. Had great views. Returned to camp for lunch and, of course, it started raining. I got another blood nose during the night. With the pile of bloody kleenex and the loosedown feathers from my jacket - it looked like we killed a chicken in our tent! I woke up with my right hand and fingers swollen. I put on the support sleeve (a nippy activity) and kept it on until about midmorning.

Mar 1: Woke up to a clear mountain and camp with lots of clouds below us. Moon looks full. It was pretty cold until the sun made its way over the mountain. No wind but very icy. Started hiking about 9am. Used the rest step almost immediately. Hiking was very comfortable. By time we got to camp (Arrow Glacier Camp at 16,000') my fingers were back to normal. It started hailing at lunch. It was so hard that I borrowed one of the guides golf umbrella to take to the Loo. It was so big, I could set it on the 3 sides. It keps me out of the hail - but my butt still froze. During the night hail turnedto snow. We had to keep knocking snoww off the tents. Before going to sleep, I put on both support sleeves - trying to take preventative steips.

Mar 2: Got up a 5am. Breakfast wasn'tall that appealing, but I ate a couple piecesof toast with peanut butter. Started hiking around 6:30am. Used the rest step fromalmost beginning. Guides wanted us to keep moving because we were in a rock fall area through most of the Western Breach. We had to do a lot of bouldering. I felt like I was back on the Matterhorn. Sal and I loved it. Janet and Selina had a harder time because they weren't used to the rock climbing or the steepness. Selina later told of hold on to Bonavenature's hand so hard it cut off the circulation. They both did a great job ofkeeping it together and getting through it. I couldn't have gone any faster than I did, but I felt good. It was wonderful to get to the top of the Western Breach and see Sal's upraised hands and big smile. Hugs all around. Rested briedly then walkedabout 1/2 hour to camp by Furtwangler glacier. Got there about 2:30pm. This is Glacier camp at 18,700'. Somehow Sal got the energy to blow up the therm-a-rest pads. She has a headache but moreenergy. I am very tired, but head'sfine. I remember that today is mom'smoving day. Hope she is successful. Sorry I'm not there to help- but it would be less work.! I felt much betteraftera short nap - but don't ask me to do anything fast./we went to bed right after dinner - probably about 7pm. We go up to pee. Sal said it was midnight. I was excited because that meant only 4 more hours to go. Later, I had to wee - my watch said 11:50. We aren't sure what Sal wasreading - but it was a long night with only short naps. It was very cold and faily clear.

Mar 3: Summit day! Got up @ 4am. again breakfast wasn'tvery appealing - thank goodness for toast and peanut butter. Started hiking a little before 6am. It was still dark. Got up to the top about 7am. It was steep and had to go slowly but we had little of the rock climbing we had to do day before. walked over to summit near the famous sign by 7:07am. It was very exciting - and we took lots of pictures. We looked down on the ash pit which we didn't climb to yesterday because it was totally socked in. We started down opposite

way we came up. About 7:40 . It was incredibly steep. Very hard on Quads. Got down to lunch spot about 10:30. Had lunch. all of us, except JD, were wasted. Guess his bicycling pays off. This was around 14,000'. From there the descent was not as steep as before lunch. Left there about 11:30 and got to camp (dry camp at 10,000') about 2;30. It was raining of course. Sal and I both had weak fatigued legs but felt exhilerated.

Mar 4: Packed up after breakfast, said goodbye to the porters. We had tipped them well. The hike today was about 7 hours - mostly because we had tired legsand the trail was very muddy. After about two hours - it started pouring - which made the hiking easier - instead of slipping in the mud - we just walked down the stream in the middle of the trail. Got to the end about 3:30 - thoroughly soaked but very happy.

Of course there is so much more to say - it was a wonderful experience - we had good weather when we really needed it - and the guides and group were a great bunch. Hope the pictures turn out.

We are currently in Kathmandu (3/18) and leave tomorrow for a trek into the Annapurna Sanctuary for about 3 weeks. Email here is very slow - so if you respond, please DON'T hit the reply button. We'll be downloading until May! All is well. Namaste.