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TRAVEL BLOG ENTRY
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From the moment I stepped off the plane from Delhi, I felt a cool breeze and saw long grasses swaying, I knew I would like it here. I feared that Kathmandu would just be a small version of Delhi, but it is nothing like it. The world here is vertical. Comprised of multi story buildings with seemingly impossible, steep staircases to wind your way through them. (I can't even imagine what American building codes would say about most of these places.)
As you go down the streets of the city people peer out of lavisly carved tiny windows looking down into the medieval looking streets. There are no cows, much less dirt, fewer people, and cooler temperatures here. All adding up to a nice break for me.
The city itself is comprised of winding, narrow roads that remind me of Rome with an Asian flare. The wood carving on the older buildings and temples is just gorgeous and provides great eye candy during the rickshaw rides through town. Owen put it well when he said that Kathmandu can make you feel like Alice in Wonderland. All of the doors are so tiny that it seems the town was built for children. It can all feel like one big fantasy village at times. I think the average door height is about 5ft, max.
There certainly is no shortage of temples either. As you go through the streets of the city, the narrow alley will suddenly open into a small square with one or two small temples. They could be buddhist, hindu, or a mix of the two. Or you just look through a doorway as you are walking down the street and realize that it opens into a courtyard with a flowering tree giving shade to a buddhist shrine.
If you stubble upon Durbar Square, it won't be so small of a square. Durbar is huge. It encompasses a white-pillared mansion from the british, the home of the living virgin goddess, many old temples, and at night time becomes a market and gathering area. The energy of this place at night with vegetable markets popping up around the bases of the multi-story temples, people praying, teenagers lounging on ancient staircases, and children running through the crowd is incredible. Vendors sell popped corn, beans, and momo's (small steamed dumplings) to the masses. When the power goes out, the life of the place does not slow, it just continues by candlelight.
If you aren't in the mood for Momo's you can head back to Thamel, the area of the city where our temporary home is. The Kathmandu Guest House is in the center of Thamel and is therefore surrounded by restaurants, small shops, trekking offices, grocery stores, and many kooky hippy cafe's. As we enter the gate Owen's nepalese "brother", otherwise known as Laxmi the security guard, will enthusiastically salute or give the tradtional hand folding for a Namaste. You walk up the short driveway to the courtyard restaurant of the hotel. You can sit at a normal table, or throw off your shoes and enjoy breakfast under a pagoda listening to the rustle off the leaves from the tree that is growing through the center of the pagoda and the rush of water from the fountain next to you.
Owen has been working through the days at the factory. I have accompanied him a few times, learning what he does there and how business functions in Nepal. Everyone at the factory is incredibly nice and I think he is lucky to have such an unusual job.
Overall, Kathmandu has been wonderful. I've been able to enjoy red wine, dark chocolate, real italian food, an amazing israeli cafe, thai food, and a little shopping. My Hindi tutor is great and I look forward to trying out my new vocab when I get home. (Everyone said that Nepali is very similar to Hindi, but I have heard very little that sounds the same.)
Enjoy the photos and keep the emails coming. My wireless connection here is not reliable, but I'll be checking in every once in awhile. Missing everyone, from home-home and from my Delhi-home. Namaste,
Lora
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katebug says:
You two look so cute:) Kathmandu sounds so interesting! We may have to add it to the traveling list:)