autumn festival

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Karatsu Kunchi is a massive festival in a northern town of our prefecture.  Over three days it draws crowds of between 150,000 to 500,000 each year.  Last year we had a huge blow out and turned up at the conclusion of the final day and basically missed everything.  We then had to listen to story after story of how great it was from those that made it!  With that in mind, and an invitation to dinner with a Japanese family, karen and I made certain we were there this year!

We had dinner with an elementary school teacher Karen has befriended.  Her sister has a house near Karatsu and together with her family (including the parents who came up from another town at the prospect of having dinner with some foreign people) we set about enjoying a pretty typical Japanese dinner.  The food was good, only a couple of things I wasn't too keen on, but plenty that I was, so I could tuck in without fear of leaving a load of stuff on my plate, or should I say plates.... Japanese meals generally consist of about 10 different communal dishes you get food from. After dinner and coffee everyone got ready to head into town to check out the night time floats, the highlight of the three day festival I had been assured. 

Thursday nights festivities involve 14 massive 'hikiyama', massive floats in the form of Samurai helmets, fish, dragons, sea bream, and other creatures, being towed around a designated route through the city.  Each hikiyama is towed by about 70 people ranging in age from about 6 to 60.  The "towers" are decked out in very traditional attire, and pull on one of two ropes that are attached to the front of the hikiyama.  They chant "En-ya! En-ya! En-ya!" over and over, while accompanied by the sound of many Japanese wooden flutes, gongs and taiko drums.  They race the streets, which are lined with thousands of people, and fly around corners at a terrifying pace! 

After the hikiyama have done their tour of the city they some how way their way down a ridiculously narrow street which is made all the more narrow by the hundreds of street stalls and thousands of festival folk.

We stood at the base of the Shinto shrine at the end of the street for a great view through the massive Tori (gate) of the hikiyama making their way through the swarms of people.  The atmosphere was buzzing with excitement and, typical for Japan, good-natured celebrations.  Everyone was happy and loving life.  One random guy who walked past Karen and I stopped to give me a small amulet.  The festival is famous for the residents of Karatsu opening their doors to strangers to enter their houses to drink and eat with them.  They really want to make sure everyone has a good time. 

The next day, and still buzzing with the excitement of the night before, Karen and I found ourselves again winding along the roads on our way to Karatsu.  This time the festival was a day event, of which the main attraction was a meeting at a sand pit off the 14 hikiyama.  The whole day is basically a way to take the hikiyama around town once more and just show them off.  The streets were once again lined with hordes of people and made for some slow manoeuvering as we navigated our way to the sand pit to meet up with some friends. 

The sun was shining which was great cause it meant the gold on all the hikiyama really came to life and showed its true beauty.  I have no idea how they managed to tow the massive floats over the loose sand, seriously there were foot deep indents at places.

After the floats were parked up, and a lunch break was dawning, we made a quick escape and made our way along the seafront to the Karatsu Castle.  Karen and I couldn't stay long though as we had places to be...things to do...

...we raced to Imari for a bbq with Karen's boss and a load of her adult students (most of whom are guys in their late 20s from Namura - a shipping company).  Japanese bbq is somewhat different to NZ style.  For a start, the bbq's here are coal powered not our usual gas.  Most food is therefore cooked a little slower, and over a long period of time.  We arrived about four pm and there was food still being put on about nine!  Where Japanese people pack all of their food I don't know... but man can they eat! 

After a rather uneventful Saturday day (both of us worked) we went to Saga city to have dinner with Nick, his visiting dad, Matt and Mark and Janelle (a kiwi couple).  After a very yummy dinner we went about playing some poker.  Not going to mention much more about it except that I don't know anyone who can blow a game like I can...damn.

Sunday proved to be an awesome day.  We spent the morning hiking in Tara-dake amongst the quick changing leaves.  The temperature was perfect for a day of marching, and the views were great.  After we had done a sufficient amount of hiking to be able to eat festival food, guilt free, later in the day, we made our way off the mountain and into Matt's town of Ureshino.  We had thought about the best thing for Nick's dad to see/do on his last day in Japan and had opted to take him to an amazing onsen over the spectacular Yutoku shrine.  The experience of a true Japanese onsen is just something that has to be experienced to do it justice.  Needless to say, his dad was mightily impressed.  It was so nice soaking in the hot water after four hours hiking.  My muscles were screaming with gratitude. 

Once we had cleansed the body and mind we loaded into the cars again and hit the expressway to get to the world famous Saga-balloon festival.  Its a week long hot air balloon festival that just so happens to be the biggest in Asia.  What it's doing in Saga, Japan I can't tell you, but it gets great crowds so I can't see it leaving anytime soon. 

We waisted little time before hitting up some stalls for hot food on our way to the balloon viewing area for the night time show.  During the day the balloons race over Saga in hot air balloon type events (drop the bag here... thant kinda thing) and in the evening the owners light up the balloons in time with music.  Initially I was definitely sceptical as to how cool this could actually be, but as soon as the lady did the countdown... "three, two, one, burners ONNNnnnn!!!" I was hooked.  It was awesome!  I definitely left the festival with the intention to "spread the word" on how cool it is.  And, after a million and one pictures had been taken of every possible angle, of ever last balloon, we were treated to the finale.  "Three, two, one, burners ONNNNNNNN!!!" queue ... Fireworks for the next five minutes mixed in with massive hot air balloons intermittingly lighting on and off! Wow!  It really proved to be the perfect send off for Nicks dad, look what Saga has to offer!