Me and My Camel Maria, I Mean Murda!

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Nik and I were up and headed to the rooftop restaurant just before 7:30am as we were being picked up at 8:00am for our camel safari.  As we got to the top of the stairs, we noticed bodies still asleep under blankets on some of the benches.  Looked like the staff were still asleep.  One of the men roused and said we could have breakfast.  It took about 10 minutes before he was fully awake and ready to take our order.  As I ordered I noted that we had to done within 20 minutes and he said it would be no problem, but I had a sneaky suspicion that we weren't going to be.  Our food didn't even arrive until just after 8am!  Besides the never saying no, that something cannot be done, I have noticed that often, drinks are brought out with the meal instead of bringing them upfront, which would definitely help with the long waits!

The driver was waiting for us when we finally made it downstairs and he took us just a few minutes before dropping us off while he shopped for produce for the trip.  About 20 minutes later, a couple showed up and we all got into the jeep and took off.  During the hour long ride, Nik and I had a fun time chatting with James and Amy who were from Norwich England and were very friendly.

As we came to a stop, we saw a group of Japanese tourists heading towards us on camels.  They did the handoff with us and we were each given a camel, with each camel loaded up with bedding and supplies.  We were allowed to bring our day packs and additionally I brought my blanket that was in a separate bag and these two items were placed over hooks at the front of my saddle.

I was too short (or maybe the came was too big?! ;)) for me to get on by myself, so Hallal (I think that was his name) had to hold one of the seat straps for me to stand on as I oh so glamorously swung my left leg over the camel - I am sure I looked a sight!  We then headed off with Ramadan (so named because he was born during Ramadan), James and Amy in the front with a couple of extra camels, followed by me, then Hallal and Nik bringing up the rear.  All the camels were tied together in two groups, except for me, I had free reign.  Hallal actually mentioned to Nik that I was a good camel driver - perhaps a potential job profession? ;)

We rode for about 45 minutes of so before stopping not too far from a village.  We got off our camels, which was always a feat as the camel had to go down on its front knees, tipping you preciously forward, then folded down its back knees before finally completing kneeling on the ground.  As we walked away from the camels and to the village, the last words from Ramadan's mouth were "Look out of the children!"  We joked about how they liked to terrorize tourists and what they would do to us.

As we came to the village that consisted of only a handful of buildings, the kids ran over to us, immediately demanding pens, chocolate and rupees.  James and Amy had been prepared with a bag of chocolates and as James pulled the bag out, planning on giving each kid a few pieces, one of the girls grabbed the whole bag with a cheeky grin on her face.  She then refused to give it back or share, and oddly enough, the other kids didn't try to get some from her, but demanded that we had to have more! They even went so far as to pat you down and checking pockets looking for things to take.

We walked around for a bit, with the kids following us before heading back to our camels.  After another glamorous mounting,this time because my saddle started slipping sideways with me on it, not good when you are quite a few feet off the ground, we headed off for another hour.  I had been prepared for an uncomfortable ride, given my experience on elephants, but surprisingly, it wasn't too bad at all.  Granted, you felt quite bow legged each time you got off, but that didn't last too long.  We had to laugh at James' camel, Queen Victoria (Victor for short), which was actually a guy, who apparently was quite horny according to Ramadan.  Victor would make this very loud noise that sounded very guttural, with his tongue hanging out, slobbering everywhere.

We stopped for lunch and were given blankets to sit on under a tree while Hallal and Ramadan prepared the food.  As we waited, two Americans showed up with their guide having stopped not too far away.  They had been on a week long camel trip and certainly looked like that had.  They were probably in their early 20's and had a definite vibe to them, looking like they had probably been smoking something along the way.  As they talked to us, one of the guys pulled out a small guitar and started strumming away as we chatted - so surreal!

For lunch we had a vegetable curry along with freshly made chapattis.  I honestly tried to eat some of the curry, but it just wasn't working for me, or Amy, who was able to subtly bury her leftovers in the sand.  I was hoping to hand my lunch over to Nik, but before I could, Hallal came over and slapped some more curry onto his plate.  Post lunch, we moved into the sun and had a little snooze while lunch was being cleaned up and the camels were prepared to leave again.

Back on the camels, we headed off, with the camels farting away and defecating constantly and of course, Victor making his horny sounds.  After some time, we were told to get off our camels and had to walk them over to a water trough for them to drink.  As they drank, a bunch of kids came over to us, one girl offering some Pepsi in bottles.  James agreed to buy one, not realizing that the girl didn't have an opener, so what did she do?  She opened the bottle with her teeth, causing her to cut herself that left her bleeding, but handing over an open bottle to James.  He felt so bad, but drank it anyhow.

The kids flocked around James and Amy who then started engaging them in a hopping game and then a horse and jockey game where they had the kids pair up and sit in a circle.  They then had to run around the circle to where they began, with the last one back at the beginning, being the loser.  They seemed to have a lot of fun with it, although didn't really understand what was going on.

As Nik and I watched, I suddenly noticed that Maria was taking a little stroll towards the village off in the distance.  No one seemed to have noticed, so I started after her.  I finally caught up with Maria and started bringing her back at which point Hallal had come over.  He made a comment about how he was horny and was looking for a girlfriend.  I was then confused, I thought my camel was Maria.  I was corrected, it was actually Murda, which still sounded like a girl's name to me, but then I looked, my camel was definitely a guy!

Back on our camels, we continued on with the landscape changing from being rather scrubby, with quite a few goats and a few sheep, to more of a desert.  After another 45 minute ride or so, we finally stopped at our final stop for the night.  The place that had been picked was in the sand dunes.  We were told we could head off to explore the dunes while Ramadan and Hallal got things sorted out.

We all headed up the dunes, which were so much better than the ones I had seen in Mui Ne, Vietnam, but still not nearly as good at Soussvlei in Namibia.  It was a fun time checking them out that seemed to go on for quite distance.  The sun was beginning to set, causing some excellent shadows on the dunes.

Back at camp just before 6pm, it wasn't long before dinner was served, this time a potato curry and chattapi, which was much more to my liking.  We sat on a blanket, close to the small fire as we ate.  Once done, we were given the beers that we had the option to buy before heading on the trip, that were not very cold, but still enjoyable as we played cards by torch light.  During the middle of one of our games, Ramadan had disappeared somewhere and Hallal asked Nik to follow him, not really explaining what he needed him before.  They were gone for about 10 minutes before returning, Nik having helped with a cell phone that they were having trouble dialing to call into the boss.  Although out in the middle of the desert, you are still close to reality!

It was about 8:30pm and we got the hint that it was time for bed.  James, Amy and Hallal were over by one bush, Nik, Ramadan and I over by another.  A thin mattress had been laid out with a couple of blankets, plus the one I had (I had hoped we would be around a fire, but no such luck).  With all my clothes on and my cardigan hood pulled over my head, we hunkered down as it was really cold.  Actually I should say it was freezing!  Despite having many layers on and the blankets, I just couldn't get warm.  Then within one hour I had to pee (darn beer) but really didn't want to get up, knowing it would be a production to get my shoes on in the sand and really cold out.  I think I must have finally snoozed, but awoke to hear Nik get up who had to shoo away a camel that was munching very loudly on the bush behind us.  Figuring he had got up, I did as well, stumbling in the sand to behind the bush.

Back in bed, still way too cold, we tried to sleep, but the camel was being way too loud.  Nik tried saying "Shoo", which of course the camel completely ignored.  Ramadan woke up and shouted something at the camel, who promptly moved a few feet away.  It wasn't far enough, so Ramadan shouted again and finally the camel left.  It was a fitful night's sleep, but I have to say that at least the stars were absolutely amazing, so many and so bright.  Been so long since I had seen anything like it.

Completely under my covers, I awoke around 7am to hear "Chai, chai" from Ramadan and soon after that breakfast was ready.  Nik and I got up and headed to the fire for some toast and boiled eggs.  James and Amy came over a few minutes later, with Amy looking very unhappy.  I guess she had a worse night's sleep than me.  At least for me, I knew that one night was it, James had convinced her to do a two night trip. 

Not too soon after breakfast was done, the clean up started and before we knew it, Ramadan was ushering us to our camels.  It turned out that Nik and I were heading out first with James and Amy heading off later with Hamal.  I was given a different camel, Sonya, the mother of the 10 month old baby camel that was on the ride and Nik was given Murda, who happened to be the father.  But apparently, the two camels didn't like each other anymore, hence Murda looking for another girlfriend!

We set off, with Nik first in the rear, with free reign, but this time I was tied up to another camel.  After about 15 minutes or so, Nik started having problems with his saddle and so Ramadan had to fix it and then suggested that he take the lead.  I guess Murda liked to be in charge.  Not soon after, Sonya came unattached from the camel in front of her and totally stopped.  Ramadan told me that she had been trained to not walk in the group without being tied to another camel.  All fixed, we headed off again, with Ramadan in front of me, chain smoking away.

We made it to our meeting point, which was a different place that we had started the previous day.  As I got off my camel and tried taking my blanket, Ramadan looked at me and said "My blanket now?".  I felt bad because he didn't look too warm the night before and since we were heading south and only had four or so days left in Rajasthan, I left it for him.  It wasn't until we were in Udaipur that I learned that this happens quite often that the camel men will ask for something, like a coat or torch and then try to keep it.

The next group arrived for the handoff with me giving Murda one last pet.  Despite having been on Sonya that day, I felt that Murda was mine :)  Nik and I then got into the jeep and an hour later, we were back in Jaisalmer, having had a very good time on our trip.