Solomon Survivors

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Since we last wrote, we spent more time in Adeliade with Michael's Uncle David, Aunt Ann, and cousin Daxine and family. We had such a good time there, ate way too much, drank really good wine, and laughed until we cried! It was a priceless time getting to know far away family and share in their lives. We'll have very dear memories of Adelaide 2002.

We made our way to the Solomon Islands last week, for what ended up being the most exciting and challenging portion of our trip so far. We didn't have much information about the Solomons, as it is rather hard to come by. The Australians know much more about the political situation there, and we found out on the way that the situation isn't great at the moment. But we were committed, and went to make the best of it.

When we got to the capital city of Honiara on the island of Guadalcanal, we met Ian and Bonnie, a couple from Brisbane, while picking up our luggage. They had a friend that stayed in the Airport Hotel recently (which is where we were booked) and said he felt very uneasy and too isolated. 'Rural Guadalcanal' was listed in the travel advisories as a trouble area, and from a look outside we realized the airport was surrounded with jungle, farms, and cows. Rural enough to make us wonder. Ian and Bonnie were worried for us and suggested we check out their hotel. We quickly changed game plans and caught a cab with them. We paid a little more to stay in town, but it was worth it. Many of the hotels had recently shut down or were run down due to the lack of tourists and political tension.

The next morning we decided to have a look around before our flight to Seghe, where our lodge owner would pick us up. The 'city' of Honiara reminded us so much of Zimbabwe. The odd store was open, but many abandoned. We were surprised to find a travel office and stopped to confirm our flight time to Seghe. We found out that we didn't have confirmed tickets, but were on a waiting list for a seat. We had no idea - we purchased the tickets months ago straight from the airline so never suspected there would be a problem. We went straight to the airport to see if maybe some one wouldn't show. The 'domestic airport' looked a bit like an abandoned warehouse, and I'm pretty sure there were no computers to check the validity of our tickets. We got on the flight no problem.

Ralph, our host, picked us up in the pouring rain from the grass runway in Seghe and we traveled by motor boat for an hour to our lodge. We saw only small bungalows and villages on the way - no stores, no hotels, no signs of modern anything for miles. It was surrreal. Our lodge was beautfully done with leaf roof and sides, finished wood floors and a wrap-around deck overlooking the Marovo Lagoon. We were happy to see the shower and flush toilet, although they were tucked back in the jungle a bit. We found out later that the design was done by Ralph's friend from New Zealand, which probably explains the flush toilet!

Our first meal was dinner that night, which consisted of cabbage (we later learned that anything they can find with big green leaves is considered cabbage) with canned tuna fish cooked in, tapioc (a whitish root of some sort, nothing like the pudding), and some sort of potatoes, all cooked on the fire. All of our coming meals would be just about the same. 'Custom Food' was what Ralph called it, and we were committed to giving it a try. We had no other food except a couple packets of emergency pasta just in case they didn't cook on their Sabboth day. Lunch was usually a little tastier, consisting of pommelo (giant grapefruit), popo (papaya), and an occasional banana or watermelon. We got pineapple one day and raved about it hoping we would get more! We learned to love the days that rice replaced the bitter tapioc, as well as the days when Ralph visited his mother in the neighboring village because she cooked the occasional scones in the moto (traditional stone oven). All in all the eating wasn't varied or tasty, but we stuck with it and needed to lose a few pounds from our stay in Adelaide anyway!

We were very isolated, and it took quite a while for us to get used to the idea. We soon learned that if we were to do anything we would have to arrange to hire the boat. We did 2 half days of fishing, chasing the coveted Bonita. What fun! We had a great time learning how to fish with only fishing line wrapped around a plastic juice bottle. Who needs fishing poles? It was a great deal because if we wanted anything besides canned tuna in cabbage, we had to catch it ourselves!

We did a family outing with Ralph's wife and daugher on my birthday, visiting a wrecked American plane from WW2 and exploring many islands in the lagoon. It was a blissful day, picnicking on one island, visiting family villages, and swimming from surreal, white sandy, uninhabited islands. I couldn't have asked for a more perfect birthday.

We saw an abundance of wildlife - many mosquitos (we had to apply DEET 3 or more times a day), parrots, bats large and small, oppossums, snakes, giant geckos, big spiders, dolphins, sharks, a turtle, a small iguana and one really BIG iguana that we actually think may have been a monitor.

We almost didn't make it back from the Solomons. Solomon Airlines is more than a little disorganized, and decided to change their flight times during the week we were there. We arrived at 10am for our 11am flight, only to find that our flight left at 8am. We weren't exactly surprised since the only form of communication is via radio where everyone uses the same channel, and 4 ticket holders were denied boarding at one stopover on our way to the island. Michael and I chatted about a strategy, and as I watched the bags Michael worked some sort of magic (over a span of 3 hours) with the guy at the airstrip, persuading him to divert another flight to pick us up. It was quite an effort, since the guy was more interested in having a nap under the trees. We were motivated, though. We were running out of DEET and hungry for something besides tapioc!

We learned quite a bit about traveling, our own priviliged lives, and ourselves in the Solomons. We spent hours chatting with Ralph about their culture and custom stories, and the difference in our lifestyles is shocking. Michael and I found ourselves deep in thought many times, taking in the reality of this simple life.

We are now in Brisbane, with another campervan ready to head for Cairns. We took the afternoon yesterday to join in WAGS - Wednesday Afternoon Gentlemen's Sailing - in Moreton Bay. It's a 30-year tradition at the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron to invite the public to join in a free sailboat race in the bay. Michael and I rode with Neville and Barb and their crew, and came in 3rd!! The good finish had nothing to do with Michael and I, we just added ballast weight and stayed out of the way! We had a drink and refreshments on the boat afterward, and couldn't believe the generosity of these people and the great welcome back to Australia.

MH here. Hats is off to Ab for getting this caught up. Brag time - It is hard to verbalize how very proud of Ab I am for making it through the Solomons. It was no joy ride but an experience we will never forget. I have to admit I was also pushed at times dealing with less than desireable situation. Like, I can vividly remember thinking, 'I hope this #$!@ great big lizard can't climb steps!!!' (No lie, this thing was 6 feet long from the fork in its tongue to tail tip.)

Wow, how our world literally did a 180 degree turn from the comfort of family and the unbelieveable hospitality of my Aunt and Uncle. (Thank you again!) We went from the renewed friendships and warm feelings of being with such special family to being dumped into the South Pacific with ethnic tension and isolation.

We now view this next stage in our journey with the campervan a total luxury. Great Barrier Reef, here we come!!!!!!!