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If Shanghai is the city that tries really hard to be Western, Hong Kong is the city that puts the West to shame.
Let’s start with the basics. The Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR) is composed of several islands stemming from the mainland; Hong Kong Island, where Central and Admirality are situated, is home to almost all tourist destinations and businesses. Kowloon, directly across from the Island, also features many businesses, hotels, and shops. In many ways, it is the saner version of Hong Kong Island, but only a metro stop away.
I was surprised to discover Hong Kong features a subtropical climate. Everywhere you go, you see small islands scattered about, filled with lush greenery. Hong Kong Island is a site in itself – businesses bustle along the coastline, but much of the island is left untouched, filled with trees and grass. And then the humidity was astonishing: every time I opened my camera, it fogged up, meaning that I brought home very few pictures from my adventures. Interestingly enough, I felt I could gather a better picture of Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam, both in climate and landscape. I ached to hop over to these countries and check them out.
This is the part where a wealthy philanthropist approaches me with money and sends me to these countries for a period of time of my choosing.
Thanks.
Given my time table and lack of philanthropists in site, I enjoyed my entrance back into ‘civilization.’ The most exciting point of my visit occurred shortly after I got off the metro, in which I saw a sign saying “NO HAWKING.” I thought they were talking about the spitting kind of hawkers and laughed really hard and took a picture. When I went back to Shanghai, Sydnie pointed out that the sign was probably referring to the type of hawkers who try and sell things to you.
Oh.
Luckily, I did not encounter any spitting. Hong Kong is ‘too civilized’ for that. And by that I mean the US could learn a lesson or two from HK.
First stop: my hotel. Perhaps due to my parents’ trepidation of my traveling to Hong Kong alone, and perhaps due to extreme generosity (most likely a combination of both), my parents decided it would be nice for me to stay at a hotel – a nice hotel – like the Intercontinental Hotel Hong Kong, situated on the best property in Kowloon.
The following section is dedicating to the Beth and Danny Dabby Foundation for Misguided College Graduates Plagued with Untreatable Wanderlust. Hopefully this miniature account will encourage future moral, and ESPECIALLY, financial support. Thank you.
First stop: My room! I stood gaping at the king sized bed with gold-colored sheets and pillows and the gorgeous desk and enormous television, while my inner five-year-old thought ‘Jump on the bed! Jump on the bed!’ And I did, naked of course (well, maybe not, but I SHOULD have), on the principal of having a gorgeous room all to myself.
In Hong Kong, nonetheless.
And then there’s the view. Mid-jump, I realized my hotel featured a full panoramic view of the Hong Kong skyline (visible from my room), which featured a lights show every night at 8:00. (Later, when I took a stroll amongst the Walk of Stars, I was torn what was more spectacular: the view of the Island, or the view of Asian tourists huddling around Jackie Chan’s wax sculptures and handprints).
And the service! Shortly after my jumping spree, a servicewoman arrived with two Asian pears and a hot kettle of tea promptly at 5:00 pm. Throughout my stay, the hotel proceeded to change my sheets twice a day and play classical music upon the second changing. Translation: Sarah walks into her room after an exhausting day with the comforts of Puccini or the London Symphony Orchestra blaring. If that isn’t enough, there’s always the enormous TV, or the Bose stereo system right below, in which you can plug your ipod and listen to your own music in surround sound.
While all of this was spectacular, I might have to say the bathroom was the most impressive part of all. A huge bathtub, robes, slippers, a scale (ok, that was really unnecessary and quite mean, in my opinion)…and THEN there’s this whole set of buttons right outside the bathroom, where apparently you can call a butler and have him fill up your bathtub with all sorts of bath gels and flower petals. Seriously? Not like I would take advantage of that option, but…wow. Over the top.
Score:
Hong Kong 1
America 0
Finally, because the fat kid inside me is roaring, I cannot fail to mention the spectacular continental breakfasts at the hotel. Chefs make all sort of fresh omelets with a variety of vegetables; they offered all sorts of subtropical fresh fruits, like mangoes, lychee, kiwi, and pineapple; and then they offer foods from all over the world…sushi, pancakes, waffles, bagels, lox, cream cheese, eight kinds of fresh juice (have you ever had strawberry, watermelon, and orange juice mixed together? All the more reason to visit Hong Kong…) any of it at your fingertips, in any quantity you'd like ('I'll have the fat kid portion, thanks...'). I have to stop writing about this right now because I am starting to salivate. I’m not joking; I’ve hardly eaten today and am currently waiting to go out to dinner with my family.
Fat kid bonus point:
Hong Kong 2
America 0
Then there was the metro system, or shall I say underground cities. There are so many entrances to the metro stations that at times it can be confusing; however, there are signs everywhere, so it’s hard to get too lost. And if you do get extremely lost, chances are that you’ll cross paths with enough pastry shops to keep your stomach happy.
Another fat kid bonus point:
Hong Kong 3
America 0
I also loved Hong Kong metros because they were impeccably clean, and they had light-up maps telling you where you were and where the next stop was (the ‘next stop’ dots would blink). So much easier to follow than, oh I don’t know, any metro system in the US.
Hong Kong 4
America 0
My stay in Hong Kong lasted four days; since Hong Kong is more of an ‘experience’ than a tourist attraction, and since everyone told me to shop massively while I was there, I made shopping one of my primary goals. In two out of my four nights, I wandered around Kowloon’s many boutiques, rarely finding anything I wanted, but fascinated by the array of clothes. Since I did some heavy shopping in Shenzhen (detailed next), I skipped Hong Kong’s most famous markets, including the night market…I did not have the energy. Next time.
Again, this is where anonymous philanthropist offers a hefty sum of money to send me back to Hong Kong.
Thanks.
*
On my third day in Hong Kong, I set out to do random touristy things, including riding the Central Escalator, which runs for approximately 25 minutes uphill, making it the longest escalator in the world; visiting the Man Mo Temple, one of the oldest temples in Hong Kong; and taking the tram up to Victoria Peak, which offers a stunning view of the city. After eating breakfast, I headed to HK Island and promptly got lost, missing the escalator by one left-hand turn.
As I studied my map while retracing my steps, I suddenly lost my footing at the stairs of a major skyscraper.
Sarah: BANG.
British guy two steps away: OHMIGOD ARE YOU OK?
Sarah: Tries to stand up.
British guy: Staring.
Sarah after a long pause: 'Yeah I’ll be fine thanks.’
British guy: Leaves after a minute.
Sarah: Stands for five full minutes unable to walk.
Sarah: Starts hobbling.
Sarah: Pissed off and wants to cry and go back to the hotel.
Sarah: Finally finds the escalator, rides it, hobbles on it, leaves, finds Man Mo Temple about 10 minutes away, stays for about three minutes just to say she’s been there, takes a picture for proof, and leaves, still hardly able to walk. And still pissed off. Naturally.
Subtract 1 point from Hong Kong:
Hong Kong 3
America 0
A little ways down the street, I found a cute little tea shop that sold an interesting variety of flavors. I limped in, tasted some of the teas, bought a couple bags, and then asked if they had any ice.
Salesman: No – but we saw you had trouble walking when you came in; is everything ok?
Sarah: I fell down the stairs. Hard.
Salesman: In Hong Kong we use a serum. Here.
The serum – who knows what it was – ensured the scrapes on my knee and ankle would not get infected, but did nothing for the bruising. Once sitting down, I was able to gain a better look at the damage. Apparently I fell directly on my left shin and ankle, creating enormous bruises coloring my entire calf. One and a half months later, the bruises are still there, and there is a ball of scar tissue on my ankle.
As I headed back to my hotel, I came across the following sign in the metro stop:
FALLING A FEW FEET CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY
USE SUITABLE WORKING PLATFORM
Thanks, Hong Kong, for that little twist of irony on an otherwise miserable day.
*
Due to my injuries, I saved Victoria Peak for my last morning in Hong Kong when I could walk somewhat regularly. I’m glad I saved it for the last, and most clear, day: it was incredible to view the city from above. I also had the pleasure of taking my picture with two perfect Turkish strangers who convinced me I needed their company. In the picture. Not in life.
It’s why I love traveling: you become fast friends with perfect strangers and capture few memories together, even though you’ll probably never see them again. Did you even learn their names? Questionable. Will you remember them, if you did? Nope. But you’re all in a strange land together, and usually that’s good enough reason to take a picture together, learn a little bit about one another, and share a few laughs before moving on.





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