If You Have 1 Day--If you only have 1 day to spend in Hong Kong, I feel sorry for you. Nevertheless, start the morning with a breakfast of dim sum in a lively Chinese restaurant. For one-stop shopping, try one of the large stores specializing in Chinese products, such as Chinese Arts and Crafts Ltd.--you'll find one in Star House, right next to the Star Ferry in Tsim Sha Tsui. Also in Tsim Sha Tsui, just a couple of minutes' walk from the ferry, is the Hong Kong Museum of Art, with its vast collection of Chinese antiquities and art.

Afterward, take the famous Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour to the Central District. There, near the ferry pier, board the shuttle bus that will take you to the tram bound for Victoria Peak. Plan on spending at least an hour or more on The Peak, where you have fantastic views of Hong Kong if the weather is clear; if you have time, walk the 1-hour circular stroll around The Peak. If you still have time afterwards or The Peak is shrouded in clouds, board the double-decker tram in Central for a unique view of north Hong Kong Island or follow one of my walking tours for Central or the Western District.

In the evening, visit the Temple Street Night Market with its festive atmosphere and outdoor stalls selling clothing and accessories, as well as its palm readers, fortune-tellers, and street opera singers .

If You Have 2 Days--After a dim sum breakfast and a ride on the famous Star Ferry, head straight to Victoria Peak for Hong Kong's best views, an hour's stroll around The Peak, or a visit to its several attractions. Next, head to Stanley Market, on the south end of the island, with its many shops and stalls selling clothing and souvenirs. For dinner, consider going to Aberdeen with its famous floating restaurant. If you prefer to join an organized tour, you can get on a sunset cruise that includes a meal at the Aberdeen floating restaurant. Tours can be booked through most tourist hotels in Hong Kong.

On your second day, board a ferry for one of the outlying islands. Cheung Chau is charming with its unhurried, small-village atmosphere; Lantao is famous for its giant outdoor Buddha and monastery. By midafternoon, try to be at the newly opened Hong Kong Museum of History in Tsim Sha Tsui East, Hong Kong's most important museum. Begin the evening with a cocktail at one of Hong Kong's many lounges that offer a view of the harbor, followed by dinner at a Chinese or Western restaurant. Afterward, visit Temple Street Night Market .

If You Have 3 Days--Start your first day with a dim sum breakfast at a Chinese restaurant. Then, head for the Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry terminus, where you'll find a visitor center for the Hong Kong Tourist Board. Afterward, for your first breathtaking view of Hong Kong, ride the famous Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour. Afterward, for an even better perspective, take the tram to the top of Victoria Peak, where you'll be rewarded with a spectacular view of the city--that is, if the weather is clear. Take an hour's walk along the circular path around Victoria Peak, where you'll have changing vistas of Central, Kowloon, Aberdeen, and even Cheung Chau and other islands. If you have children, consider a visit to Ripley's Believe It or Not! Odditorium, Madame Tussaud's, or the Peak Explorer.

Have lunch on The Peak or at one of Central's many restaurants or English-style pubs. In the afternoon, follow my do-it-yourself walking tour of the Western District, where you can observe traditional Chinese life firsthand, shop for antiques, and visit the Man Mo Temple. For your first evening, try one of Hong Kong's organized evening tours, such as a sunset cruise to Aberdeen .

On your second day, head to Stanley Market on south Hong Kong Island, where you can spend several hours shopping for clothing and souvenirs. After a late lunch in Stanley or afternoon tea in the historic lobby of The Peninsula hotel, head to Tsim Sha Tsui East for the newly opened Hong Kong Museum of History with its vivid representations of daily Chinese life through the ages. If time permits, explore the many shops along and around Nathan Road. In early evening, head for a cocktail lounge that offers a view of the harbor, followed by dinner and then entertainment in a pub or disco, perhaps in the Lan Kwai Fong nightlife district.

For your last morning in Hong Kong, get up early and head for one of the outlying islands. Cheung Chau, with its small village, beach, and boat population, is good for a short excursion. Lamma is recommended if you want to do some hiking, swimming at a beach, or dining on seafood at a waterfront open-air restaurant. Lantao is a popular destination for its giant outdoor Buddha and adjoining monastery offering vegetarian lunches. Spend the afternoon following your own inclinations: a tram ride to Causeway Bay for more shopping; another museum; a walking tour of Central ; Ocean Park with its aquarium, amusement rides, and Middle Kingdom ; or an organized tour of the New Territories. After dinner at a traditional Chinese restaurant, take a stroll through Temple Street Night Market in Kowloon.

If You Have 5 Days or More--Consider yourself lucky! Spend the first 3 days as outlined above. Note, however, that if you're having an article of clothing custom-made, you should visit the tailor on your first day to discuss needs and fittings. Also, check the Meet the People brochure available at the tourist office to see whether there are any free, 1-hour tours or cultural lectures that pique your interest.

On the fourth day, take a trip to the New Territories (see chapter 10 for more information). Alternatively, consider taking one of the excellent tours offered by the Hong Kong Tourist Board or a private tour company. If you're not too tired by evening, take the tram to Victoria Peak for a romantic, spectacular nighttime view of Hong Kong, ablaze with glittering lights (the night view is a must-see, even if you've already been to The Peak during the day). Alternatively, stroll the promenade along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront.

Devote the fifth day to all those things you haven't had time for--whether it's more shopping, sightseeing, or unstructured exploration. Visit another island, or, if you have children, make sure you visit Ocean Park with its performances by whales and dolphins, a shark aquarium, playground, and much more. If it's horse-racing season, try to get in on the action. For blitz shopping for fake designer handbags and pirated DVDs, take the train into mainland China's Shenzhen district, just across the Hong Kong border. If you've had something custom-made, don't forget to pick it up. For a memorable last evening in Hong Kong, splurge at one of Hong Kong's fine Chinese or Western restaurants with a view.

If you still have time to spare, I strongly urge you to cross the Pearl River Estuary by jetfoil to spend a day or two in the old Portuguese city of Macau, the first European settlement in the Far East. Not only is Macau cheaper than Hong Kong, but it is also very different, with its Mediterranean-influenced architecture in the old town, several great special-interest museums, fantastic Macanese cuisine, and more shopping opportunities. On December 20, 1999, Macau reverted back to Chinese rule, becoming a special administrative region similar to Hong Kong.