Travel Guide for Hong Kong
back to table of contents
Planning a Trip - Getting There
With more than 40 airlines and half a dozen cruise lines serving Hong Kong from around the world, it's certainly not difficult to get there. Your itinerary, the amount of time you have, and your pocketbook will probably dictate how you travel. Below are some pointers to get you headed in the right direction.
By Train
It's unlikely you'll arrive in the SAR by train, unless, of course, you're traveling via China. The Beijing-Kowloon Railway provides a direct link between the two cities in approximately 26 hours and costs HK$1,191 (US$155) for a bed in a deluxe, two-bed cabin, HK$934 (US$121) for a "soft bed" in a four-bed cabin, and HK$601 (US$78) for a "hard bed" in a six-bed cabin, one-way. Service is also available from Shanghai in a little more than 23 hours, costing HK$508 to HK$1,039 (US$66-US$135) one-way, and from Guangzhou (formerly Canton), costing HK$190 to HK$230 (US$25-US$30) and taking approximately 2 hours.
In any case, the end terminus for train travel to Hong Kong is the new East Tsim Sha Tsui Station, with an underground pedestrian passageway linking it to the nearest MTR subway station in Tsim Sha Tsui and its many hotels.
By Ship
Some 30 international cruise ships make Hong Kong a port of call each year. The SAR's main docking facility is Ocean Terminal, located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui and part of a massive shopping complex which includes 700 shops and 50 restaurants. Just a stone's throw away is the Star Ferry with service to Hong Kong Island.
By Plane
The Major Airlines
Airlines that fly nonstop between North America and Hong Kong include Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com), with daily flights from Vancouver; Cathay Pacific Airways (tel. 800/233-2742; www.cathaypacific.com), Hong Kong's own airline with daily service from Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York, and Vancouver; Continental Airlines (tel. 800/231-0856; www.continental.com), with flights most days of the week from New York; Singapore Airlines (tel. 800/742-3333; www.singaporeair.com), with daily service from San Francisco; and United Airlines (tel. 800/538-2929; www.united.com), with daily service from San Francisco and Chicago. Other airlines flying between North America and Hong Kong with stops en route include Northwest Airlines (tel. 800/447-4747; www.nwa.com), Japan Airlines (tel. 800/525-3663; www.japanair.com), Korean Air (tel. 800/438-5000; www.koreanair.com), and Philippine Airlines (tel. 800/435-9725; philippineairlines.com).
From the United Kingdom, Cathay Pacific (tel. 020/8834 8888), British Airways (tel. 0870/850 9850; www.britishairways.com), and Virgin Atlantic Airways (tel. 0870/380 2007; www.virgin-atlantic.com) offer daily nonstop service from London to Hong Kong. From Australia, both Cathay Pacific (tel. 131747) and Qantas (tel. 131313; www.qantas.com.au) offer daily nonstop service from Sydney and Melbourne. From New Zealand, Cathay Pacific (tel. 0508/800454) offers daily nonstop service from Auckland.
Airfares
Regardless of how you buy your ticket, there are certain regulations you should know about airfare pricing. While first-class, business-class, and regular economy fares (those with no restrictions) are the same year-round to Hong Kong, the cheapest fares (including Advance Purchase Excursion fares) usually vary according to the season. The most expensive time to go is during the peak season (June-Aug) and the last couple of weeks in December. The lowest fares are available mid-January through March. Fares in between these two extremes, known as the shoulder season, are available in April and May and again from September to mid-January. To complicate matters, each season also has different rates for both weekday and weekend flights. There are also special promotional fares.
Because the flight to Hong Kong is such a long one (almost 16 hours from Chicago, 12 hours from London, and 9 hours from Sydney), you may wish to splurge for a roomier seat and upgraded service, including special counters for check-in, private lounges at the airport, and better meals, as well as a higher ticket price when choosing your carrier. You should also consider a mileage program, since this round-trip flight will earn you a lot of miles.
Flying for Less: Tips for Getting the Best Airfare
Passengers within the same airplane cabin are rarely paying the same fare. Travelers who need to purchase tickets or change their itinerary at the last minute pay the premium rate. Here are some ways to keep your costs down:
Passengers who can book their ticket long in advance, who can stay over Saturday night, or who fly midweek or at less-trafficked hours may pay a fraction of the full fare.
You can also save on airfares by keeping an eye out in local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes. You rarely see fare wars offered for peak travel times, but if you can travel in the off-months, you may snag a bargain.
Search the Internet for cheap fares.
Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are great sources for international tickets, though they usually can't beat the Internet on fares within North America. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections; U.S. travelers should focus on the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, and Miami Herald. For less-developed destinations, small travel agents who cater to immigrant communities in large cities often have the best deals. Beware: Bucket shop tickets are usually nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties, often as high as 50% to 75% of the ticket price, and some put you on charter airlines, which may leave at inconvenient times and experience delays. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. STA Travel is now the world's leader in student travel, thanks to their purchase of Council Travel. It also offers good fares for travelers of all ages. FlyCheap (tel. 800/FLY-CHEAP; www.1800flycheap.com) is owned by package-holiday megalith MyTravel and so has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. Air Tickets Direct (tel. 800/778-3447; www.airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and leverages the currently weak Canadian dollar for low fares; it'll also book trips to places that U.S. travel agents won't touch, such as Cuba.
Join frequent-flier clubs. Accrue enough miles, and you'll be rewarded with free flights and elite status.
How To Have An (Almost) First-Class Experience In Coach
Anyone who has traveled in coach or economy class in recent years can attest to the frustrating reality of cramped seating. But with a little savvy and advance planning, you can make an otherwise unpleasant coach experience almost bearable.
Your choice of airline and airplane will definitely affect your leg room. Find more details at www.seatguru.com, which has extensive details about almost every seat on six major U.S. airlines. For international airlines, research firm Skytrax has posted a list of average seat pitches at www.airlinequality.com.
Emergency exit seats and bulkhead seats typically have the most legroom. Emergency exit seats are usually held back to be assigned the day of a flight (to ensure that the seat is filled by someone able-bodied); it's worth getting to the ticket counter early to snag one of these spots for a long flight. Many passengers find that bulkhead seating (the row facing the wall at the front of the cabin) offers more legroom, but keep in mind that bulkheads are where airlines often put baby bassinets, so you may be sitting next to an infant.
To have two seats for yourself in a three seat row, try for an aisle seat in a center section toward the back of coach. If you're traveling with a companion, book an aisle and a window seat. Middle seats are usually booked last, so chances are good you'll end up with three seats to yourselves. And in the case that a third passenger is assigned the middle seat, they'll probably be more than happy to trade for a window or an aisle.
To sleep, avoid the last row of any section or a row in front of an emergency exit, as these seats are the least likely to recline. Avoid seats near highly trafficked toilet areas. Avoid seats in the back of many jets -- these can be narrower than those in the rest of coach class. You also may want to reserve a window seat so that you can rest your head and avoid being bumped in the aisle.
Get up, walk around, and stretch every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your blood flowing. This helps avoid deep vein thrombosis, or "economy-class syndrome," a potentially deadly condition that can be caused by sitting in cramped conditions for too long. Other preventative measures include drinking lots of water and avoiding alcohol.
Drink water before, during, and after your flight to combat the lack of humidity in airplane cabins -- which can be drier than the Sahara. Bring a bottle of water on board. Avoid alcohol, which will dehydrate you.
If you're flying with kids, don't forget to carry on toys, books, pacifiers, and chewing gum to help them relieve ear pressure buildup during ascent and descent. Let each child pack his or her own backpack with favorite toys.
Coping With Jet Lag
A major consideration for visitors flying to Hong Kong, especially on long flights from North America, is jet lag. To minimize its adverse effects -- primarily fatigue and slow adjustment to your new time zone -- avoid drinking carbonated drinks, coffee, or alcohol during the flight. In addition, eat light and healthy meals high in vegetable and cereal content and drink plenty of water the day before, during, and the day after your flight to prevent dehydration. Exercise during the flight by walking around the cabin and by flexing your arms, hands, legs, and feet. It also helps to set your watch (and your mental clock) to Hong Kong's time zone as soon as you board the plane.
Once you reach Hong Kong, schedule your day according to local time. Put in a normal day, even if you're tired. I find it useful to take melatonin 2 hours before bedtime. A natural, sleep-inducing hormone, it's thought that melatonin will trick your body into thinking night has fallen earlier and help you adjust to a new time zone. But don't sleep longer than you normally would to try to "catch up."
If you follow these instructions, your body should be back to normal within a couple of days.
Arriving At Hong Kong International Airport
No one who ever flew into Hong Kong's former Kai Tak Airport could quite forget the experience of landing in one of the world's most densely populated cities. The runway extended out into the bay, past apartments so close you could almost reach out and touch the laundry fluttering from the bamboo poles.
But Kai Tak, which ranked as the world's third busiest airport in 1996, was retired in 1998. Taking its place is the Hong Kong International Airport (tel. 852/2181 0000; www.hongkongairport.com), four times the size of Kai Tak. Situated just north of Lantau island on Chek Lap Kok island and reclaimed land, about 32km (20 miles) from Hong Kong's central business district, the new, state-of-the-art airport is one of the world's most user-friendly. Two runways operate 24 hours a day, and a baggage-handling system delivers bags in approximately 10 minutes.
After Customs, visitors find themselves in the arrivals hall. One of the first things you should do is stop by one of three Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) counters, where you can pick up a map of the city, sightseeing brochures, and a wealth of other information, as well as get directions to your hotel. They're open during peak hours, generally daily from 7am to 11pm. iCyberLink computers provide access to Discoverhongkong.com 24 hours a day.
Also in the arrivals hall is the counter of the Hong Kong Hotel Association (www.hkha.com.hk), where you can book a room in one of its 60-some member hotels without paying a service fee; open daily 6am to midnight. Note that while they do not have information on rock-bottom establishments, they can book rooms in several low-priced lodgings and the YMCAs.
If you plan on traveling to Macau some time during your stay in Hong Kong, stop by the Macau tourist information counter, also in the arrivals lobby at AO6; it's open daily from 9am to 1pm, 1:30 to 6pm, and 6:30 to 10pm. However, if you are traveling directly to Macau from Hong Kong International Airport via the new Ferry Transfer service, do not pass through immigration. Rather, purchase tickets at the Ferry Transfer desk near the transfer area E1 and proceed directly to the ferry pier.
You can exchange money at the arrivals hall, but since the rate here is rather unfavorable, it's best to exchange only what you need to get into town -- about US$50 should do it.
If you need to leave luggage at the airport, there is a luggage-storage counter on the departure floor.
Getting Into Town From The Airport
The quickest way to get to downtown Hong Kong is via the sleek Airport Express Line (tel. 852/2881 8888; www.mtr.com.hk), which is straight ahead after passing Customs and entering the arrivals hall. Trains run every 12 minutes between 6am and 1am and take 20 minutes to reach Kowloon Station (off Jordan St. at the old Jordan Ferry Pier and near hotels in Tsim Sha Tsui and Yau Ma Tei) and 23 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station, on Hong Kong Island in the Central District (just west of the Star Ferry terminus). Fares are HK$90 (US$12) to Kowloon and HK$100 (US$13) to Central; round-trip tickets are HK$160 (US$21) and HK$180 (US$23), respectively. Or, if you're in Hong Kong only 3 days, consider purchasing the Tourist Transport Pass for HK$300 (US$39), which allows unlimited travel by public transportation for 3 days and includes the trip from and to the airport. From both Kowloon and Hong Kong stations, free shuttle bus service transfers passengers to most major hotels, departing every 12 to 24 minutes between 6:18am and 11:10pm.
In addition to the Airport Express, there are also dedicated airport buses that connect the airport with major downtown Hong Kong areas. Easiest if you have lots of luggage -- but most expensive -- is the Airport Shuttle (tel. 852/2735 7823), which provides door-to-door service between the airport and major hotels. Tickets, available at a counter in the airport arrivals hall, cost HK$120 (US$16), with buses departing every 30 minutes. It takes about 30 to 40 minutes to reach Tsim Sha Tsui, depending on the traffic.
Slower, with more stops, are Cityflyer Airbuses (tel. 852/2873 0818; www.citybus.com.hk), also with ticket counters in the arrivals hall (if you pay onboard, you must have exact fare). Most important for tourists are Airbus A21, which travels through Mong Kok, Yau Ma Tei, Jordan, and down Nathan Road through Tsim Sha Tsui on its way to the KCR East Rail Hung Hom Station; and Airbus A11, which travels to Hong Kong Island. Buses depart every 10 to 30 minutes, with fares costing HK$33 (US$4.30) to Kowloon and HK$40 to HK$45 (US$5.20-US$5.85) to Central and Causeway Bay.
The easiest way to travel from the airport, of course, is to simply jump in a taxi, since taxis are quite cheap in Hong Kong but expensive for the long haul from the airport. Depending on traffic and your final destination, a taxi to Tsim Sha Tsui costs approximately HK$300 (US$39) and takes 30 to 45 minutes, while a taxi to the Central District will cost about HK$365 (US$47) and will take 35 to 50 minutes. There's also an extra luggage charge of HK$5 (US65¢) per piece of baggage.
Note On Departing
Passengers flying Cathay Pacific, Virgin, and a handful of other airlines are offered the extra benefit of being allowed to check in for return flights at one of two satellite stations -- at Hong Kong Station in Central and at Kowloon Station, both served by the Airport Express Line . Both allow you advance check-in any time from 24 hours to 90 minutes before your flight: You'll get your boarding pass, and your bags will be transferred to the airport. Note, however, that since the 9/11 terrorist attacks, some U.S.-bound flights do not allow check-in at satellite stations. At the time of going to press, Cathay Pacific and Continental did not allow check in at Hong Kong and Kowloon stations, while Northwest and United did (call your airline to inquire about its policy). In any case, there is a left-luggage service at both stations, useful if your flight is later in the day and you want to do some sightseeing before heading for the airport.
If you travel directly to the airport and go through check-in there, plan on arriving about 2 hours before departure. Although most tickets now include airport departure tax in their price, you may be required to pay the tax (HK$120/US$16) if yours does not. At any rate, passengers waiting for flights can browse at the Hong Kong Sky Mall, with more than 100 outlets offering merchandise and food.









