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Arriving in Hoi An, we knew only two things about the town: it's a UNESCO World Heritage site and it's THE spot to get tailor made silk clothes. Our first walk around the city and we knew Hoi An was a town capitalizing on the tailoring. On every block there was at least one tailor, usually four or five. We were originally going to have only one dress (for me) and one suit (for Matt) made. But three days later we had two suits (one each), two dresses (for me), three shirts, three ties, two pairs of pants, a bathing suit and $300 visa bill. Warning to people planning on going to Hoi An: the tailoring is addictive. The sweet tailors kept asking us if we wanted to make more clothes and we kept looking at each other saying "How can we NOT get a suit if it's only $60?"
Our shopping appetite sated we went looking for a delicious meal. Our first experience was at Cafe des Amis, a restaurant with no menu. What a great concept! The chef, an charmingly eccentric man (who cooked for the army during the war and for foreign dignitaries after) cooks whatever he feels like, you just tell him if you want meat, seafood or vegetarian. We stuffed ourselves with spring rolls, fish soup, curries and noodles. The dishes were not only delicious but so unique as well- combining a variety of flavors and textures in each bite. Patting our full stomachs, we thanked the chef for a delicious, filling meal. As we left, he said "You'll be fat and I'll be rich".
The next night we ate at a tiny local joint, called Bale Well. We sat outside on tiny plastic chairs and watched as the cockroaches ran by (tip: don't look at the floor at outdoor, local restaurants). The owner (Mai) greeted us, ordered for us and then sat down and fed us. We ate amazing spring rolls, assembled at our table from a number of ingredients (lettuce, beef skewers, bean sprouts & rice pancakes). Mai rolled each at every spring roll and even fed them to Matt (he didn't lift a finger the whole meal!). It was incredible and possibly the best meal of the trip.
After fours days of gluttony, we headed to Nha Trang to relax at the beach.




previous travel blog entry
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