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Peggy: New Year's has greeted us with brilliant sunshine over the Derwent River, which we see from Phil's living room. Many of the large yachts have arrived from the voracious 60th running of the Sydney-Hobart Race. However, 56 of the 117 boats which started have bailed. It was very stormy with gale force winds the first few days and the reasons for retiring, as listed on the waterfront white board include: "broken mast, broken keel, electronics failure, crew seasickness, crew disposition", and our favorite "it wasn't fun"! Six years ago in similar horrible weather, 6 people drowned and 5 boats sank\151so it was appropriate for boats to retire and seek shelter in port. There are four boats still out sailing\151 for the race which began Dec 26th on the 1163 km course. Months ago Duncan had expressed interest in crewing\151we have since learned this is a brutal race and were relieved that he was watching, not sailing. One of the favored-to-win maxi boats called "mayday" and the crew jumped into the mandatory life rafts, before being picked up by another ship, several hours before their $4 million boat capsized. (for more details, check out race website: http/rolexsydneyhobart .com). Everyone is safe this year though and the boats are impressive!

     Relaxing and enjoying "home" has been an important part of our Hobart stay here. We did a New Year's Eve afternoon swim and adults added an evening hike on Mt. Wellington, where the weather was clear and temperatures downright balmy. There were midnight fireworks from a barge, visible from the dock area, and a champagne toast to the new year before we dropped into bed at 1:30 am. We've learned some Aussie English, eaten meat pies (but not vegemite), visited Port Arthur and a wildlife park (Tasmanian devils, cockatoos and kangaroos), learned about Tassie, shared stories from Outward Bound days, caught up on mutual friends from the past and shared travel stories and slides. Even in Hobart however, we were reminded of the multicultural nature of all travels: a nearby house has 5 six foot decorated Christmas trees out on the lawn, surrounding a six foot Lord Buddha dressed in the traditional saffron robes! Not sure what to make of that, but it exists!

     Having recently traveled in Thailand (Bangkok), we are moved by the tragedy of the tsunami there and in Indonesia. There is a great outpouring of support and concern here, as many Australians vacation there. We are feeling blessed to be here on the Tasmanian island safe and sound! We ask that all of you consider the victims and their families in your own way.

     We did make an overnight trip back to Bruny Island for sunset penguin viewing as hoped. Taryn wrote in her journal: "Bundled up against the chill night air, we crowded around the viewing holes in the plastic mesh that enclosed the small viewing platform (in the conservation area). Finally a cry of "here they come!" heralded the arrival of the first penguins. Dark shapes materialized out of the foaming surf. Nine small penguins began the hurried trek up the beach, their dark backs contrasting with the white sand in the deepening twilight. These penguins were soon followed by another group and another. Shearwater (birds) filled the skies above, their cries adding to the cacophony of penguin chicks, emerged from their burrowing and waiting impatiently to be fed. We watched from the boardwalks, shining red-cellophane covered flashlights in the dark. The penguin chicks cackled and screeched, and looked bewildered in the softened glare of the flashlights. Meanwhile, the adults (penguins) continued to make their way steadily upwards (to their burrows), pausing to rest every so often. Can you imagine trying to climb a steep hill, covered in bushes and sand, when you are only 30 cms tall and you have no knees? Difficult life! \133I could have stayed watching the penguins indefinitely\133"

I could not have described it any better than that! Wishing each of you the joy of discovery that Taryn described as you travel in the new year! We are onto Auckland tomorrow\151NZ is our final destination before the US!


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