Hampi and the ruined City of Vijayanagar

The view from our hotel of the temple

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Following the general uncomfortableness of the preceding days travel we booked Sleeper Class seats and were pleased to find that although the station claimed this Class to be fully booked (when we were helpin a few Americans get their travel sorted) we had six seats between Sara and I for almost the entire 8hr  journey.

Upon arriving in Hospet we subsequently booked our onward travel to Madurai and found it to be booked for several days giving us 3 days to explore the wonderful ruins of Hampi.

Upon arriving in Hampi it was quickly apparent that i was not altogether well and a bout of "Delhi-belly" rapidly came over me with a restless night and day of diahorea and vomiting! I am feeling much better now as i write this and i'm very much looking forward to exploring the ruins by tuk-tuk and bicycle over the next few days.

Stark contrast

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Living in Hampi can only be likened to living on a farm, though this could relate to India as a whole, with cows, goats, chickens, pigs and boars running wild in the streets. Only the cow is sacred which means that it can move freely and unimpeded anywhere and they were a frequent sight holding up traffic even in the largest cities we have been visiting! I'm not sure that i've ever seen so many Massey Ferguson tractors in one place (on the road to Hampi from Hospet), but its always good to see English technology making a difference.

We have come to Hampi to see the ruined city of Vijayanagar, "the City of Victory", which is littered among a surreal landscape of golden-brown granite boulders and leafy banana fields. The city was built to protect and enhance Hindu culture from Muslim invaders who were laying seige to much of southern India. It was founded in 1343 and between the 14th & 16th Centuries this was the most powerful Hindu capital in the Deccan. It was eventually plundered by the Muslims some 300 years after it was built but much of the glorious architecture built under the reign of the great King Krishna Deva Raya (1509-29) remains and this is what we have been to see (see photos).

Hampi's high street

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Sara and I were enticed into a bongo shop by some friendly locals on our first night and we have been having free lessons everyday since. On our last day we both decided to buy one for each other's Christmas present...so despite the inevitable ball-ache we will be lugging these around India with us (as if we didn't already have enough to carry)!

Before visiting India we of course read up on the various customs so as not to offend. One of these relates specifically to the show of affection for loved ones in public and as such kissing & holding your partner's hand is frowned upon. So it came as quite a suprise to see Indian couples restraining themselves but Indian men all holding hands as symbol of companionship....and throughout India this closely resembled a national gay pride parade. Homosexuality is forbidden so perhaps this is the only way male Indians can vent their emotions :p