Getting There

By Car -- Access to the Gold Coast Highway, which runs the length of the Coast, is off the Pacific Highway from Sydney or Brisbane. The drive takes about 80 minutes from Brisbane. From Sydney it's an 11-hour trip, sometimes longer, on the crowded, run-down Pacific Highway.

By Plane -- Domestic flights land at Gold Coast Airport, Coolangatta, 25km (16 miles) south of Surfers Paradise. Qantas (tel. 13 13 13) operates direct flights from Sydney and Adelaide. QantasLink flies from Brisbane and Newcastle. Virgin Blue (tel. 13 67 89) flies direct from Sydney, Melbourne, Canberra, and Adelaide. Jetstar (tel. 13 15 38 in Australia) flies from Melbourne. Qantas international subsidiary Australian Airlines (tel. 1300/799 798 in Australia) links the Gold Coast and Cairns. The Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle (tel. 13 12 30) meets every flight and will transfer you to your accommodations; the fare is A$15 (US$12) one-way and A$26 (US$21) round-trip for adults, A$8 (US$6.40) or A$13 (US$10) round-trip for kids ages 4 to 13, A$38 (US$30) one-way or A$65 (US$52) round-trip for families of four. A taxi from the airport to Surfers Paradise is about A$30 (US$24) but may be higher if traffic is heavy.

The nearest international gateway is Brisbane International Airport (see chapter 6). The Coachtrans Airporter bus meets most flights and makes about 20 trips a day from the domestic and international terminals at Brisbane Airport to Gold Coast accommodations for A$35 (US$28) adults, A$18 (US$14) children 4 to 14. The trip takes about 90 minutes to Surfers Paradise. You do not need to book in advance unless you are on an evening flight; if you are, call tel. 13 12 30 in Queensland, or 07/3238 4700.

AirtrainConnect links Brisbane Airport and the Gold Coast by train and bus for A$39 (US$31) adults, A$20 (US$16) children 5 to 14, or A$100 (US$80) for a group of five. Take Airtrain to the Gold Coast, then an air-conditioned coach shuttle to any accommodations between Southport Spit at the northern end of the Gold Coast and Burleigh Heads to the south. Airtrain's SmartPass, for A$99 (US$79) per adult, A$53 (US$42) per child, or A$222 (US$178) for a family of four for 3 days, covers AirtrainConnect transfers, as well as unlimited door-to-door theme park transfers on the Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle and use of the local Surfside bus network, 24 hours a day. Passes are also available for 5 and 7 days.

By Bus -- Coachtrans (tel. 13 12 30 in Queensland, or 07/3238 4700) runs between Brisbane and Gold Coast hotels. The fare is A$35 (US$28) adults one-way, A$18 (US$14) for kids, or A$89 (US$71) for a family.

Greyhound Australia (tel. 13 14 99) makes daily stops at Surfers Paradise from Sydney and Brisbane. The trip from Sydney takes 14 to 15 hours, and the fare is A$96 (US$77). Trip time from Brisbane is 90 minutes, and the fare is A$20 (US$16).

By Train -- Suburban trains (call Queensland Rail Citytrain; tel. 07/3235 5555) depart Brisbane Central and Roma Street stations every 30 minutes for the 72-minute trip to the Gold Coast suburb of Robina. The fare is A$10 (US$8) adults, A$5 (US$4) children 5 to 14. Numerous local buses meet the trains to take passengers to Surfers Paradise.

If you come by train to Surfers Paradise from Sydney or other southern cities, service is on Countrylink (tel. 13 22 32 in Australia; www.countrylink.nsw.gov.au), and you will need to transfer to a connecting coach in Casino or Murwillumbah, just south of the Queensland border. The trip from Sydney takes 14 to 15 hours and the fare is A$110 (US$88) for a sitting berth and A$230 (US$184) for a sleeper.

Visitor Information

The Gold Coast Tourism Bureau (tel. 07/5538 4419; www.goldcoasttourism.com.au) has an information kiosk on Cavill Avenue in Surfers Paradise. It is stacked with brochures on things to see and do, and the staff will book tours and arrange accommodations. The kiosk is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm, Saturday and public holidays from 9am to 5:30pm, and Sunday from 9am to 3:30pm. A second information booth is at the corner of Griffith and Warner streets in Coolangatta. It is open from 8am to 4pm weekdays, from 8am to 3pm Saturdays, from 8am to 1pm public holidays.

To obtain material in advance, e-mail info@gctb.com.au or write to the bureau at P.O. Box 7091, Gold Coast Mail Centre, QLD 9726.

The Secret of the Gold Coast Seasons-- School holidays, especially the Christmas vacation from mid-December to the end of January, are peak season on the Gold Coast. Accommodations are booked months in advance at these times. The rest of the year, occupancy levels plummet -- and so do rates! Packages and deals abound in the off season, so make sure you ask.

Orientation

The heart of the Gold Coast is Surfers Paradise -- "Surfers" to the locals -- a high-rise forest of apartment towers, shops, cheap eateries, taverns, and amusement parlors. The pedestrian-only Cavill Mall in the center of town connects the Gold Coast Highway to The Esplanade, which runs along the beach.

The Gold Coast Highway is the main artery that connects the endless beachside suburbs lining the coast. Just north of Surfers is Main Beach, where Tedder Avenue abounds with shops, restaurants, and cafes. Heading south from Surfers, the main beach centers are Broadbeach, where retail complexes and restaurants are mushrooming; family-oriented Burleigh Heads; and the twin towns of Coolangatta in Queensland and Tweed Heads just over the border in New South Wales. Coolangatta still has a sleepy small-town feel that's ideal for families, despite some major development in the past few years. Gold Coast Airport is on the other side of the highway from Coolangatta township.

West of Surfers Paradise and Broadbeach are the affluent suburbs of Ashmore and Nerang, where luxury residential estates and many of the region's championship golf courses have sprung up.

Getting Around

It's not necessary to have a car. The hotels listed below are within walking distance of the beach, shops, and restaurants, and many tour companies pick up at hotels. You can reach the theme parks by bus. A car is handy for a day trip to the hinterland, and to get around to restaurants and golf courses. Parking is cheap and plentiful in numerous lots and on the side streets between the Gold Coast Highway and The Esplanade.

Avis (tel. 07/5539 9388), Budget (tel. 07/5538 1344), Hertz (tel. 07/5538 5366), and Thrifty (tel. 07/5570 9999) have outlets in Surfers Paradise and at Gold Coast Airport. Endless local outfits rent cars at cheap rates.

Surfside Buslines (tel. 13 12 30 in Australia or 07/5571 6555) is the local bus company. Its best deal is the Freedom Pass, which allows you to hop on and off the buses anytime you like. The 3-day pass costs A$46 (US$37) adults and A$23 (US$18) children or A$115 (US$92) for a family of four; 5-, 7-, 10-, and 14-day passes are also available. This is a particularly good deal if you're planning to visit the theme parks, because the company's Gold Coast Tourist Shuttle operates door-to-door transfers four times every morning from anywhere on the coastal strip. You must make a reservation for this, but if you are staying in Surfers Paradise or Broadbeach you can hop on the Surfside Theme Park Express (included in the Freedom Pass). It leaves every 15 minutes from 8:25 to 11am on weekdays and until 9:45am on weekends, from Pacific Fair shopping center at Broadbeach, picking up at bus stops along the way.