Cool Gangtok

Michael admires the great view at Tashi

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Like Darjeeling, Gangtok was a cool and moist city, perfect for our escape from the summer heat. The people of Gangtok were a little different from the rest of India… they seemed to sometimes still consider themselves a different country. Fair enough, every state in India seems so different from the others, and despite being annexed in 1947 their Choygal ruled the state until 1963.

We were surprised on arrival at the difference from Delhi and Varanasi. At the jeep stand we pulled out our guidebook to orient ourselves by the map. Two people asked us if we were looking for a hotel, a common question and we had learned to ignore these people because it meant hassles and possibly paying a high rate at a hotel to cover a commission for this person who directed you there. But to our surprise these men were just giving advice to visitors to their city: Lots of hotels on such and such a street, cheaper hotels on this other street, a short cut for pedestrians between those 2 buildings. It was a welcome change to not be followed with shouts about guide services or hotel references.

Spinning prayer wheels at Do-Drul Stupa

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We wandered Gangtok and enjoyed breakfasts at a western style bakery. One day was devoted to a taxi tour of nearby vistas and temples. It covered a lot: the Ganesh Tok, Hanuman Tok, Tashi viewpoint, the Rumtek Monastery, and the Do-Drul stupa. The Rumtek monastery is home to the Kagyu sect of Buddhism also called the Black Hat Sect. This black hat is made of angels hair, and reputedly has to be kept in a locked box to prevent it from flying back to heaven. Due to a desire on the Indian government’s part to not alienate the Chinese government, the Tibetan refugee leader of the Black Hat Sect is not allowed into Sikkim to head the monastery. He instead stays in Dharamsala, home to the Dali Lama.

We enjoyed a short cable car ride too, with good views of the city, bamboo, and gum trees.