Hawaii Travel Guide

The Best Dining, Hawaii Style

• Tropical Fruit: Mangosteen, the queen of fruit in Indonesia, is the sensation at the Hilo Farmers Market on the Big Island. Mangosteen's elegant purple skin and soft, white, floral-flavored flesh (like litchi, but more custardlike) make this fruit a sure winner.

  The mango is always a much-anticipated feature of late spring and summer. Hayden mangoes are universally loved for their plump, juicy flesh and brilliant skins. White Piries, with their resinous flavor and fine, fiberless flesh, are even better; this rare and ambrosial variety can be found in Honolulu's Chinatown or at roadside fruit stands in rural Oahu. Watch for the Rapoza, a new large, sweet, fiberless mango introduced to Hawaii several years ago.

  Kahuku papayas -- firm, fleshy, dark orange, and so juicy they sometimes squirt -- are the ones to watch for on menus and in markets; check out the roadside stands in Kahuku on Oahu, and at supermarkets. Sunrise papayas from Kapoho and Kauai are also top-notch.

  White, acid-free, extra-sweet, and grown on Kauai and the Big Island, Sugarloaf pineapples are the new rage. Hilo is the town for litchis (also known as lychees) in summer, but Honolulu's Chinatown markets carry them, too. Ka'u oranges, grown in the volcanic soil of the southern Big Island, are available in supermarkets and health-food stores. Don't be fooled by their brown, ugly skin -- they're juicy, thin-skinned, and sweet as honey.

• Noodles: Ramen, udon, saimin, pho, pasta, chow mein -- Hawaii is the epicenter of ethnic noodle stands and houses, with many recommendable and inexpensive choices. Jimbo's Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/947-2211), a neighborhood staple, is tops for freshly made udon with generous toppings and a homemade broth. On the neighbor islands, noodle-mania prevails at Hamura's Saimin Stand (Kauai; tel. 808/245-3271), where saimin and teriyaki sticks have replaced hamburgers and pizza as the late-night comfort-food tradition. Nori's Saimin & Snacks (Big Island; tel. 808/935-9133) is the place in charming Hilo for consummate saimin of every stripe.

• Plate Lunches: Zippy's (21 locations throughout Oahu; call tel. 808/973-0880 for the one nearest you) is a household word in Hawaii. Other favorite plate-lunch spots on Oahu include Kakaako Kitchen (tel. 808/596-7488), Ward Centre, serving dinner at indoor and outdoor tables; I e Country Cafe (tel. 808/596-8108); and Yama's Fish Market (tel. 808/941-9994), where the chocolate/macadamia nut cookies and chocolate biscotti have legions of fans. On Maui, Pauwela Cafe (tel. 808/575-9242) serves gourmet feasts from a tiny kitchen, and Aloha Mixed Plate (tel. 808/661-3322) lets you nosh on fabulous shoyu chicken at ocean's edge -- and with a mai tai, too. On Kauai, Pono Market (tel. 808/822-4581), Fish Express (tel. 808/245-9918), and Koloa Fish Market (tel. 808/742-6199) are at the top of the plate-lunch pyramid.

• Shave Ice: Like surfing, shave ice is synonymous with Haleiwa, the North Shore Oahu town where Matsumoto Shave Ice (tel. 808/637-4827) serves mounds of the icy treat. Shave ice is even better over ice cream and adzuki beans.

• Other Mighty Morsels: Poi biscotti from the Poi Company, available at supermarkets and gourmet outlets, is the consummate accompaniment to another island phenomenon, Kona coffee. Coffee growers of highest esteem (all based on the Big Island, of course), include: Rooster Farms (tel. 808/328-9173), which sells and ships only organic coffees; Bong Brothers (tel. 808/328-9289); Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company (tel. 808/322-1700); Langenstein Farms (tel. 808/328-8356); and Holualoa Kona Coffee Company (tel. 800/334-0348).

  The buttery, chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies of Big Island Candies (Big Island; tel. 808/935-8890) are worth every calorie and every dollar. From Kauai, Hanapepe town's venerable Taro Ko taro chips (tel. 808/335-5586 for the factory) are a crunchy snack neighbor islanders drive long miles to find.

The Best Restaurants

• Alan Wong's Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/949-2526): Master strokes at this shrine of Hawaii Regional Cuisine include warm California rolls made with salmon roe, wasabi, and Kona lobster instead of rice; luau lumpia with butterfish and kalua pig; and ginger-crusted fresh onaga. Opihi shooters and day-boat scallops in season are a must, and grilled lamb chops are a perennial special. The menu changes daily, but the flavors never lose their sizzle.

• Chef Mavro Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/944-4714): Honolulu is abuzz over the wine pairings and elegant cuisine of George Mavrothalassitis, the culinary wizard and James Beard Award-winner from Provence who turned La Mer (at the Halekulani) and Seasons (at the Four Seasons Resort Wailea) into temples of fine dining. He brought his award-winning signature dishes with him and continues to prove his ingenuity with dazzling a la carte and prix-fixe ($66-$93) menus.

• Hoku's (Oahu; tel. 808/739-8780): Elegant without being stuffy, and creative without being overwrought, the fine-dining room of the Kahala offers elegant lunches and dinners, and one of Oahu's best Sunday brunches. This is fusion that really works -- European finesse with an island touch. The ocean view, open kitchen, and astonishing bamboo floor are stellar features. Reflecting the restaurant's cross-cultural influences, the kitchen is equipped with a kiawe grill, an Indian tandoori oven, and Szechuan woks.

• La Mer (Oahu; tel. 808/923-2311): This romantic, elegant dining room at Waikiki's Halekulani is the only AAA Five-Diamond restaurant in the state. The second-floor, open-sided room, with views of Diamond Head and the sound of trade winds rustling the nearby coconut fronds, is the epitome of fine dining. Michelin award-winning chef Yves Garnier melds classical French influences with fresh island ingredients. It's pricey but worth it. Men are required to wear jackets (they have a selection if you didn't pack one).

• 3660 on the Rise (Oahu; tel. 808/737-1177): Ever since Wine Spectator gave this restaurant its "Award of Excellence," this place has been packed, and with good reason. In his 200-seat restaurant, chef Russell Siu adds an Asian or local touch to the basics: rack of lamb with macadamia nuts, filet of catfish in ponzu sauce, and seared ahi salad with grilled shiitake mushrooms, a local favorite.

• Roy's Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/396-7697): Good food still reigns at this busy, noisy flagship dining room in Hawaii Kai with the trademark open kitchen. Roy Yamaguchi's deft way with local ingredients, nostalgic ethnic preparations, and fresh fish makes his menu, which changes daily, a novel experience every time.

• Merriman's (Big Island; tel. 808/885-6822): Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, displays his creativity at this Waimea eatery, a premier Hawaii attraction. Dishes include his signature wok-charred ahi, kung pao shrimp, or lamb from nearby Kahua Ranch. His famous platters of seafood and meats are among the many reasons this is still the best -- and busiest -- dining spot in Waimea.

• Son'z Maui at Swan Court (Maui; tel. 808/667-4506; www.sonzmaui.com): For 30 years, the Swan Court was the dining experience at the Hyatt Regency Maui. When Tri-Star Restaurant Group CEO Aaron Placourakis (who also owns Nick's Fishmarket) took over this restaurant, he and executive chef Geno Sarmiento knew they wanted to hit a home run every night with the cuisine. The restaurant already had perhaps the most romantic location in Maui, overlooking a man-made lagoon with white and black swans swimming by and the rolling surf of the Pacific in the distance. The culinary team's creative dishes, made with fresh local ingredients (Kula corn and strawberries, Ono Farms avocados, Hana hearts of palm, Maui Cattle Company beef, fresh Hawaiian fish, and sweet Maui onions) plus top-notch service and a relaxing atmosphere make this gem one of Maui's best restaurants.

• Haliimaile General Store (Maui; tel. 808/572-2666): Bev Gannon, one of the 12 original Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs, is still going strong at her foodie haven in the pineapple fields. You'll dine at tables set on old wood floors under high ceilings, in a peach-colored room emblazoned with works by local artists. Gannon's Texas roots shine through in her food, a blend of eclectic American with ethnic touches that puts an innovative spin on Hawaii Regional Cuisine.

• Pineapple Grill Kapalua (Maui; tel. 808/669-9600): If you have only 1 night to eat on the island of Maui, this is the place to go. In fact, if you eat here at the beginning of your Maui trip, you are definitely going to want to come back! Executive chef Joey Macadangdang (a protege of Roy Yamaguchi of Roy's Restaurant), is a genius, combining Asian/Filipino ingredients into culinary masterpieces. You'll find lots of tasty sandwiches and salads at lunch, and a continental-style breakfast in the morning -- all served in a very Maui-like atmosphere overlooking the rolling hills of the Kapalua Golf Course out to the Pacific Ocean.

• Ihilani (Lanai; tel. 808/565-2296): A number of top Hawaii chefs (such as Phillippe Padovani and Edwin Goto) have each added a bit of their own style during their tenure here, but the common denominator is the melding of Mediterranean with Island cuisine. The result is Lanai's top gourmet restaurant, in a formal atmosphere with inspiring food. The latest incarnation of this classy restaurant, overlooking the resort and the ocean beyond, is traditional Italian cuisine, priced moderately for the Four Seasons Resort Lana'i at Manele Bay.

• Hanapepe Cafe & Espresso Bar (Kauai; tel. 808/335-5011): This is one of those places that locals know about and generally visitors are not aware of. Nestled in the quaint little town on the west side of Kauai, this small, wholesome cafe boasts a casual, winning ambience and some of the most creative cuisine around.

• Dondero's (Kauai; tel. 808/742-1234): If you're looking for a romantic dinner, Dondero's is hard to beat. Dine either under the stars overlooking the ocean or tucked away at an intimate table surrounded by inlaid marble floors, ornate imported floor tiles, and Franciscan murals. You get all this atmosphere plus the best Italian cuisine on the island, served with efficiency. It's hard to have a bad experience here. Dinners are pricey but worth every penny.