Swellendam Travel Guide

Swellendam: 220km (136 miles) E of Cape Town

Most people who choose to drive through the Overberg interior (as opposed to edging along its Whale Coast) are in a hurry to get to the Garden Route and may rush through and completely bypass the excellent pit stops and side trips along the way. Most importantly, try to set aside enough time to take the Route 62, which means veering north from Swellendam and traveling through the small towns of Barrydale, Ladismith Calitzdorp, Oudtshoorn, and Prince Albert. This makes for a great road trip, and the empty, arid spaces are a great contrast to the later lushness of the Garden Route. An additional night will do, but you could stretch it to two, or even do the entire detour in a day.

Leaving Cape Town, you will ascend Sir Lowry's Pass, with great views of Gordon's bay and Strand, to reach the fruit-growing areas of Grabouw and Elgin (the area, incidentally, produces around 65% of South Africa's apple export crop) and the first of many farm stalls dotted along the way. Peregrine (opposite the Grabouw turnoff) is one of the oldest and still one of the best -- stop here for fresh farm produce and various traditional "road trip" treats like biltong (air-dried meat strips) and droe wors (air-dried sausage). The adjacent bakery is also excellent -- the pies (try the springbok), melktert (thick custard tart), and koeksisters (deep-fried dough soaked in syrup).

The first detour you might consider is the R406, which loops past the villages of Genadendal and Greyton. Genadendal is the oldest Moravian mission village in Africa, with buildings dating back to 1738. The Genadendal Mission and Museum Complex documents the activities of the missionaries and their flock. It offers an authentic glimpse into the past but is rather run down and not always open; call ahead and request a guided tours: tel. 028/251-8582 (Mon-Thurs 8:30am-5pm; Fri 8:30am-3:30pm; Sat 10am-2pm).

Greyton, a few minutes farther east on the R406, was developed much later and by a more affluent community. Set at the foot of the Riviersonderend Mountains, with many beautifully restored Victorian and Georgian buildings, it's a great place to stop for lunch -- grab a table on the stoep (veranda) at the Oak & Vigne (tel. 028/254-9037; open daily, lunch only). If you feel like spending the night (and this is a great village to do so in), Barnards Boutique Hotel (tel. 028/254-9394; R600-700 double; cottages R950), a classy renovation of an 1830s farmhouse on the Main Road, with rolling lawns and decent-size pool, is the best; make sure you book a table at 254 Restaurant. Other than strolling the streets, Greyton's main attraction is the 14km (8.5-mile) Boesmanskloof Trail, which traverses the mountains to the town of McGregor, another village with a charming atmosphere. If you're not a dedicated hiker, a good alternative is the 9km (5.5-mile) walk to Oak Falls -- the highlight of the route -- instead. Note that from Greyton you can proceed along a back road direct to Montagu, or return to the N2 along a well-graded dirt road, so there's no need to retrace your footsteps. For information on this and more, call tel. 028/254-9414.

Swellendam, a pretty town at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains and appropriately billed as "the historic heart of the Overberg," is the perfect halfway stop (for lunch or the night) for visitors driving from Cape Town to the Garden Route directly via the N2.