Turkey Travel Guide

Most of Turkey's best beaches have been snatched up by big hotel chains -- leaving less than stellar public alternatives for the nonpaying riffraff. Hotels sometimes charge a day fee for use of the beach, or maybe just the use of a lounge chair -- as little as 2€ ($2.50) a day. The bonus: Hotels have snack bars, watersports, and clean toilets; and for the most part, the beaches have been left in their natural states.

Alaçati Bay (Çesme Peninsula): The actual stretch of beach is small, but the beach opens up to an enormous bay blessed with lofty winds -- paradise for windsurfers. The high winds are attributed to the sizable stretch of water and the absence of anything obstructing it. The beach is backed by hills, hills, and more hills, all topped by dry, barren brush.

Pirlanta Beach (Çesme Peninsula): Pirlanta, which means "diamond" in Turkish, describes the creamy whiteness of this sandy stretch of the peninsula. The beach is long and wide and faces the open Aegean. It's also easily accessible by dolmus (minivan-type public transportation) from Çesme's town center.

Altinkum Beach (Çesme Peninsula): The golden-colored sand from which the beach takes its name is located in a relatively hard-to-find spot at the southernmost tip of the peninsula. Luckily, this only serves to keep this public park blissfully empty and undervisited. Because this beach faces the open sea, the water is a refreshing few degrees cooler than elsewhere on the peninsula.

Ayayorgi Beach (Çesme Peninsula): Not a beach per se, but a few narrow concrete piers jutting out over the water. Nevertheless, Ayayorgi is a charming spot, hidden in an overgrowth of orange and olive groves and open to a small and intimate cove.

Ölüdeniz Beach (Ölüdeniz): The posters just don't do it justice. On one end is the great expanse of Belcekiz Beach, enclosed by the brittle silhouette of Babadag and the landing pad for paragliders sporting jet-propulsion packs. And on the beach is the jaw-dropper, the Blue Lagoon made real: still waters in no less than three shades of turquoise.

Butterfly Valley (Fethiye): After reaching the Blue Lagoon -- the holy grail of Turkish beaches -- it seems odd to want to go elsewhere. But the Fethiye area abounds with stunning scenery. If you can tear yourself away from the main event, take the 30-minute boat ride to Butterfly Valley, a sandy paradise hewn out of a soaring gorge.

Marti Resort Deluxe Hotel (Içmeler): Nestled between two peaceful pine hills and boxed in by a series of curvaceous islands, the beach at the Marti creates the sensation of being lost at sea. The cove is known by a few savvy gulet captains who lay anchor offshore, though close enough to cast an admiring gaze along the broad-beamed hull.

Iztuzu Beach (Dalyan): Strict rules of conduct here; Iztuzu Beach is a national preserve and breeding ground for the Caretta Caretta, or loggerhead turtle. But at night, after the crowds have gone home, you can sit in complete darkness and watch the lights move out to sea, or listen to the sounds of home life glide over the river from a nearby fishing village. Just don't wander too close to the waterline, and on behalf of the turtles, stay away from the off-limits areas.

Kaputas Beach (near Kalkan): Hundreds of years ago a huge chasm opened up the side of the mountain face and spilled its contents out to sea. The gorge has dried up, but what's left is Kaputas Beach, a small, sandy patch 400 steps down from the highway that feels like the middle of nowhere. From here, it's just a short swim to some nearby phosphorescent caves.

Patara Beach (near Kalkan): Eighteen kilometers (11 miles) of beach backed by dunes and marshlands -- need I say more? The Mediterranean rises to the challenge in the summer, when it turns a deep shade of blue. Watch out for the winds, though, which probably managed to submerge an entire ancient city in sand in no time at all.

Konyaalti (Antalya): The newly developed waterfront in center-city Antalya breathes new life into a seaside resort that risked second-rate status. Miles of pebble beaches, waterfront promenades, meandering lawns, cafes, and activities make this one of Turkey's most coveted destinations. Bodrum, look out!