Amsterdam Travel Guide

If you want to visit the Red Light District on your third day, morning is the best time. Most of its weird folk have crashed out for the day and there's almost an air of innocence to the place, which occupies one of the prettiest parts of the Old Center. Only the middle segment of this itinerary goes through the Red Light District; the rest is a picture of purity -- or as much purity as a smudgy city like Amsterdam ever aspires to. Start: Metro and trams 4, 9, or 14 to Waterlooplein.

1. Waterlooplein

The flea market here was once a fixture of the old Jodenbuurt (Jewish Quarter). Not much of the Jewish community survived the war, so neither did much of their neighborhood. There's still a flea market on the square, though, and plenty of grungy stuff to buy.

2. Museum Het Rembrandthuis

Rembrandt painted some of the world's finest art, and put on airs and graces at this house -- before bankruptcy spoiled the party and he had to leave. Be sure to view his etchings and drawings.

3. Nieuwmarkt

Sint-Antoniesbreestraat curves around to this lively old market square which, partly because its only public transportation link is a Metro station, seems like a place apart from the rest of the Old Center.

4. In de Waag

Housed in a centuries-old fortified city gate and weigh house, this cafe-restaurant combines a medieval setting with sharp modern cuisine. Nieuwmarkt 4. tel. 020/422-7772.

5. Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum

The hash museum goes far out of its way, or maybe just far out, to demonstrate that hemp has all manner of useful applications besides being tamped into little pipes. Yeah, right. Look for David Teniers's painting of long-ago puffing peasants.

6. Oude Kerk

It's somehow symbolic of Amsterdam -- a once-Catholic place of pilgrimage turned sober Calvinist -- that its Old Church should sit smack in the middle of what's now the Red Light District. Surrounding the church are neat little homes once occupied by pious women. Today, many are still occupied by women, who might easily be pious, if not exactly virtuous.

7. Centraal Station

Everyone ends up here sooner or later. The architecturally noteworthy station, a great place for people-watching, is the focal point of the city's public transportation by train, tram, bus, Metro, taxi, water-taxi, ferry, and canal bus. Walk to the rear of the station for a fine harbor view.

8. 1e Klas

Surprising as it might seem, the station restaurant is a decent place to grab a bite, whether or not you're catching a train. Platform 2B, Centraal Station. tel. 020/625-0131.

9. Stedelijk Museum CS

East of Centraal Station on Oosterdokskade is a harbor redevelopment zone, Het Eilandje (Little Island). Here is the home, at least until 2008, of the modern-art Stedelijk Museum while its regular premises at Museumplein are being refurbished. On the way, you pass a floating hotel and a floating Chinese restaurant.

10. Harbor Ferry Ride

Ferries shuttle back and forth from the Waterplein West dock behind Centraal Station. Most of them are free and the others cost little. They make for a good way of touring Het IJ channel. Along its shores, residential, commercial, and cultural properties are surging up in waves of redevelopment.

11. Wilhelmina Dok

Taking the free ferry across Het IJ to IJplein in Amsterdam-Noord puts you within easy walking or bicycling distance of this breezy restaurant. Nordwal 1. tel. 020/632-3701.