- Hotel Eden (Rome; tel. 06-478121; www.hotel-eden.it): The Eden offers great service and plush comfort but without all the ostentation of Rome's grand hotels. Spacious, elegant guest rooms offer panoramic views over the Eternal City, and the Eden offers perks such as a health club and one of the city's best restaurants.
- Hotel de Russie (Rome; tel. 800/323-7500 in North America, or 06-328881; www.roccofortehotels.com): Opulently furnished, this chic boutique hotel enjoys a spectacular location in a setting of terraced gardens near Rome's Piazza del Popolo. About three-quarters of the guest rooms are done in a stark, striking contemporary minimalist style. All are incredibly comfortable and offer lots of high-tech gadgets and thoughtful touches.
- The Inn at the Spanish Steps (Rome; tel. 06-69925657; www.atspanishsteps.com): This intimate, upscale inn is a real find. The former Roman residence of Hans Christian Andersen has been transformed into a small inn of charm and grace, with each bedroom boasting authentic period decor and furnished with modern comforts.
- Hotel Regency (Florence; tel. 055-245247; www.regency-hotel.com): An intimate and luxurious hideaway in a tranquil part of Florence, this hotel is filled with stained glass, paneled walls, and reproduction antiques. The exquisite guest rooms boast custom mattresses, double-glazed windows, thick carpeting, coffered or beamed ceilings, rich fabrics, and the most fabulous marble bathrooms in town.
- Villa San Michele (Fiesole, near Florence; tel. 800/237-1236 in the U.S., or 055-5678200; www.orient-expresshotels.com): This former 15th-century monastery is set behind a facade reputedly designed by Michelangelo. Brigitte Bardot chose it for one of her honeymoons (no one remembers with which husband). With a decor no set designer could duplicate, it evokes the charm of an aristocratic villa.
- Certosa di Maggiano (Siena; tel. 0577-288180; www.certosadimaggiano.com): This early-13th-century Certosinian monastery has been impeccably restored and converted into an upscale Relais & Chateaux inn. The individually decorated guest rooms are spacious, with antiques, art objects, and sumptuous beds; one has a private walled garden.
- Cipriani (Venice; tel. 041-5207744; www.hotelcipriani.com): This exclusive, elegant hotel is situated in a 1.2-hectare (3-acre) garden on the isolated Isola della Giudecca, removed from the tourist bustle of Venice. It offers chic, contemporary surroundings; sumptuous guest rooms; and a wealth of recreational facilities, including an Olympic-size pool, a first-rate health club, and Venice's only tennis court. Service is the best in town, with two employees for every room.
- Gritti Palace (Venice; tel. 800/325-3535 in the U.S., or 041-794611; www.hotelgrittivenice.com): The Gritti, in a stately, central Grand Canal setting, is the renovated palazzo of 15th-century doge Andrea Gritti. It's quite formal, and it simply oozes glamour and history. Expect superb service, and elegant rooms with nice touches such as hypoallergenic pillows, bottled water, two-line phones, and marble bathrooms with deep soaking tubs.
- Four Seasons Hotel Milano (Milan; tel. 02-77088; www.fourseasons.com): The building was first a 15th-century monastery, then the residence of the Habsburg-appointed governor of northern Italy in the 1850s. The Four Seasons chain has created one of Italy's finest hotels, incorporating the medieval facade, many of the frescoes and columns, and the original monastic details into a modern edifice accented with stone floors, pearwood cabinetry, Murano chandeliers, and acres of Fortuny fabrics. The guest rooms are cool, sleek, and spacious, with a sense of understated luxury and state-of-the-art bathrooms. Service is impeccable.
- Grand Hotel Villa d'Este (Cernobbio; tel. 031-3481; www.villadeste.it): Built in 1568, this palace in the Lake District is one of Europe's finest resort hotels. Step inside, and you're surrounded by frescoed ceilings, gorgeous antiques, and other exquisite details. Four magnificently landscaped hectares (10 acres), parts of which have been nurtured since the 1500s, surround the hotel. Guests enjoy dining on outdoor terraces, swimming in the gorgeous pools, using the health club and reveling in spa treatments, and much more. Cool breezes are provided by nearby Lake Como.
- Hotel Splendido and Splendido Mare (Portofino; tel. 800/223-6800 in the U.S., or 0185-267801; www.hotelsplendido.com): Built as a monastery in the 14th century and abandoned because of attacks by North African pirates, this monument was rescued during the 19th century by an Italian baron, who converted it into a summer home for his family. The posh hillside retreat on the Italian Riviera now accommodates a sophisticated crowd, including many film stars. The views over the sea are stunning; you can enjoy the hotel's own lovely pool, or the staff will take you by boat to a private cove with changing cabins and lounge chairs.
- Grand Hotel Quisisana Capri (Capri; tel. 081-8370788; www.quisi.com): This is the grande dame of Capri's resort hotels, with glorious views, a posh style, and supremely comfortable rooms.
- Hotel di San Pietro (near Positano; tel. 089-875455; www.ilsanpietro.it): The only marker identifying this cliff-side hotel is a 15th-century chapel set beside the winding road. The hotel doesn't advertise and offers a quiet place to escape from it all, but this Relais & Chateaux property, with its gorgeous views, is the most luxurious retreat in the south of Italy. Strands of bougainvillea twine around the dramatically terraced white exterior walls; the spacious rooms are super-glamorous. An elevator takes you down the cliff ledges to a private beach.
- Palazzo San Domenico (Taormina; tel. 0942-613111; www.sandomenico.thi.it): This is the grande dame of all of Sicily's hotels and one of the greatest in Italy. It's a virtual museum, a national monument, and one of the most elegant, comfortable, and tasteful hotels in the south of Italy. It originated in the 14th century as a monastery.




