Greece Travel Guide

Driving in Greece is a bit of an adventure, but it's the best way to see the country at your own pace. Note: Greece has one of the highest accident rates in Europe, probably due somewhat to treacherous roads, mountain terrain, and poor maintenance of older cars as much as to reckless driving -- although Greeks are certainly aggressive drivers. Athens is a particularly intimidating place in which to drive at first, and parking spaces are practically nonexistent in the center of town. (Main routes in and out of cities are sometimes signed by white arrows on blue markers.) Several of the major cities are linked by modern expressways with tolls; the toll for Athens to Thessaloniki, for instance, is expected to go up to 30€ ($39). Accidents must be reported to the police for insurance claims.

If you do intend to do a fair amount of driving, acquire a good up-to-date map before you set off. The best source is a British shop that allows for online ordering, www.themapstore.com.

The Greek Automobile Touring Club (ELPA), 395 Mesoyion, 11343 Athens (tel. 210/606-8800), with offices in most cities, can help you with all matters relating to your car, issue International Driver's Licenses, and provide maps and information (tel. 174, 24 hr. daily). ELPA's emergency road service number is tel. 104. Though the service provided by the able ELPA mechanics is free for light repairs, definitely give a generous tip.

The price of gasoline fluctuates considerably from week to week and from service station to service station, but it remains consistently expensive: about 1.05€ ($1.35) a liter, which works out to about $5.25 for an American gallon. There is no shortage of gasoline stations in all cities, good-size towns, and major tourist centers, but if you are setting off for an excursion into one of the more remote mountain areas or to an isolated beach, fill up on gas before setting out.

Car Rentals

You will find no end of rental cars throughout Greece, and almost as much variation in prices. Many cars have a standard shift; if you must have an automatic, make sure in advance that one is available. In high season you are strongly advised to make your reservation before leaving home and well in advance. Always ask if the quoted price includes insurance; many credit cards make the collision-damage waiver unnecessary, but you will find that most rental agencies automatically include this in their rates. You can sometimes save by booking at home before you leave; this is especially advisable in summer. If you are shopping around, let the agents see the number of competitors' brochures you're carrying.

Most companies require that the renter be at least 21 years old (25 for some car models). An occasional company won't rent to anyone older than 70 or 75. Definitely inquire beforehand! You must possess a valid Australian, Canadian, E.U.-nation, U.S., or International Driver's License. You must also have a major credit card (or be prepared to leave a large cash deposit).

The major car rental companies in Athens are Avis (tel. 210/322-4951), Budget (tel. 210/349-8700), Hertz (tel. 210/922-0102), National (tel. 210/349-3400), and AutoEurope (tel. 00800/11574-0300 toll-free from Greece), all with additional offices in major cities, at most airports, and on most islands. Smaller local companies usually have lower rates, but their vehicles are often older and not as well maintained. If you prefer to combine your car rental with your other travel arrangements, we recommend Galaxy Travel, 35 Voulis, near Syntagma Square (tel. 210/322-2091; www.galaxytravel.gr). It's open Monday through Saturday during the tourist season.

Rental rates vary widely -- definitely inquire around. In high season, the daily rates will be about 45€ ($59) for a compact and 65€ ($85) for a full-size -- but you will usually have to pay some cents per kilometer; weekly rates with unlimited mileage might run 250€ ($325) for a compact and 450€ ($585) for a full-size. In low season, rates are often negotiable in Greece when you show up in person. And be prepared for the addition of 19% in VAT taxes plus 2% in municipal taxes to the quoted price. (And there's usually a surcharge for pickup and drop-off at airports.)

Note: You must have written permission from the car rental agency to take your rental car on a ferry or into a foreign country.

Driving Rules

In Greece, you drive on the right, pass on the left, and yield right of way to vehicles approaching from the right except where otherwise posted. Greece has adopted international road signs, though many Greeks apparently haven't learned what they mean yet. The maximum speed limit is 100kmph (65 mph) on open roads, and 50kmph (30 mph) in town, unless otherwise posted. Seat belts are required. The police have become stricter in recent years, especially with foreigners in rental cars; alcohol tests can be given and fines imposed on the spot. (If you feel you have been stopped or treated unfairly, get the officer's name and report him at the nearest tourist police station.) Honking is illegal in Athens, but you can hear that law broken by tarrying at a traffic signal.

Parking -- Parking a car has become a serious challenge in the cities and towns of Greece. The better hotels provide parking, either on their premises or by arrangement with a nearby lot. Greece has few public parking garages or lots. Follow the blue signs with the white P and you may be lucky enough to find a space. Most Greek city streets have restricted parking of one kind or another. In some cities, signs -- usually yellow, and with the directions in English as well as in Greek -- will indicate that you can park along the street but must purchase a ticket from the nearest kiosk. Otherwise, be prepared to park fairly far from your base or destination. If you lock the car and remove valuables from sight, you should not have to worry about a break-in.

Warning on Licenses -- Legally, all non-E.U. drivers in Greece are required to carry an International Driver's License. In practice, most car rental agencies will rent to Americans and other non-E.U. drivers carrying their national driver's licenses, although they usually have to have been licensed for at least 1 year. (One major exception is on the island of Hios, where the International License is usually required.) This is fine so long as you don't get involved in an accident -- especially one involving personal injury. Then you could discover that your insurance is voided on a technicality. Meanwhile, you run the risk of an individual policeman insisting that you must have the international license. Obtain one before leaving home (from the national automobile association) or from the Greek Automobile Touring Club .